Hot Rods Best Broken Bolt Removal Tool?

I'm looking for recommendations for a broken bolt removal tool. I'm pretty sure there are newer tools out that are much better than a standard "easy-out" tool. I have a 3/8-16 bolt broken off in a cast-iron cylinder heard (exhaust port bolt). Unfortunately, this is also one that plugs a water channel so has sealant on the threads. The engine is assembled although the bolt was able to be turned (a little) before it broke.

Thanks,

- EM

 

Weld a washer to the broken bolt, then weld a nut on the washer, then lefty loosey. The heat from the welding usually frees things up.

 

Thanks Stu.

 

If you have a torch heat the end of the bolt first then weld the washer then the nut let it cool
If you don't have the torch and welder I think Ridgid #35585 kit works good

 

And while you are workin' it back and forth, tap with a small hammer some where close..

 

There is nothing sticking out to heat. It should be close enough to the surface to use Stu's suggestion though. I'll check out the rigid kit. thank you.

 

You can still heat up the end of it even if its not sticking out the pre heat will help the welding of the washer on whats in there

 

The welding method is a good suggestion. I'm sure you'll be able to get it out with some effort. One work of caution. If you wind up trying the easy out method do not break it off in the bolt. Makes a lot of work with that hardened piece snapped off in there.

A friend of mine ran a small machine shop for a few years. People would bring in various parts wanting a broken bolt removed. He would quote $50-$75 to remove it . Not knowing how big of a pain it would be. A lot of times it was easy for him to do. If that was the case when the customer came back for the part it was free or very cheap. Not knowing that customers would say that was too much and they would do it them selves. However when they returned with an easy out broke off in the broken bolt or a hole drilled crooked or some other damage done trying to remove it then the price was much higher.

 

google rescue bit. Never seen anything like it. I have no dog in this fight either.

 

I think everyone breaks off a easy out in the bolt, at least once, don't they? Mine was on a water pump. And yeah, getting that out really sucks.

 

You're correct. Then the best method is EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) and it's not cheap or fast.

I'm just going to go for the welding method using the washer first because of the fact that there is nothing sticking out of the hole. Then I'll weld-on a grade 8 nut. I'm going to start by pre-drilling the bolt slightly to help with reducing pressure on the bolt after the bolt contracts after welding. This will also help with weld penetration.
Thanks to all who offered recommendations.

- EM

 

Do not use a grade 8 nut, it will become brittle and brake off. Do not preheat the broken stud before welding either. Weld the washer and let it cool and then weld the nut on it. Let it cool before trying to loosen it. By welding to the stud, you only heat the stud causing it to expand and when it cools, it shrinks and breaks the bond. This works great in removing screws in metal body parts that have the slot messed up from trying to use a screwdriver and ruining the slot. Take a 00 welding tip and heat the screw head(only) red hot and let it cool. Most of the time it will unscrew with very little resistance , sometimes with your hand only.

 

If it is broken below the surface, there is a special welding rod that won't stick to the cast head, only to the steel bolt. I had to remove 7- 1/2" bolts that were broken off on the lift on my farm tractor. I used about 10-12 of the special rods to build the broken bolts up to surface level, then did the washer and nut weld trick. Some came out first time, others, I had to weld the washer and nut on two or three times before they came out. Of course I'm no pro welder, just a shade tree hack, so your results may vary...

 

Most of the time blew em out with a blue wrench.....

 

I use a MIG welder and build up a flush or recessed bolt and weld a nut to the stub. Often takes more than one try.

 

I have done this in the past and it worked well. Drill and tap the broken bolt, in your case use a 14/20. Install a 1/4 20 bolt with a nut on it. Tighten nut to the broken bolt. All the time squirting a bit of oil on the broken bolt. Then rock the broken bolt back and forth until it comes out.

 

If the welding method does not remove the bolt, you are going to have to drill out the entire part of the bolt. Carefully ! If you can not save the threads get a heli coil kit and repair. I have to do this almost every week on broken exhaust studs, on heavy duty CAT truck engines.

 

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm Pete