Hey everyone, so before I begin I'd like to say that the 8ba I rebuilt was running before this problem. It has a merc crank, and Navarro heads, it was running very poorly at high rpm so I decided to bring it home for a valve set and new malory distributer over winter. Now the problem is that the truck is cranking and for the life of me I just can't get it to go. It has fuel, spark and iv triple checked the timing and even took the intake manifold back off thinking I had messed up the valve set.. anyways what else could make this thing not start?! Thanks Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The truck also has 2x2 intake with speedway 97 carbs, 6 volt system Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Have you pulled the new Mallory and tried it with your previous ignition system which had apparently worked before? Have you done a compression test or at least a cranking vacuum test?
Yes I have just put the old distributer back on. Still the same thing. I don't know what the heck happened. It should atleast start without vacuum shouldn't it Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Throw the old distributor back on, pull the plugs and crank it a bit as well to see if you have fuel and pressure. Make sure you keep a rag handy. Check timing mark confirmed with TDC check. Sure you don't have the distributor 180 out.
I don't know flattys but all motors are the same in this respect. One time I had a motor that looked right but absolutely would not fire. I figured out that the power I had going to the coil went dead while it was cranking. Recently I learned that some solenoids have a bypass to run up to the coil so you get a full 12 volts to fire up with if you have a ceramic insulator in line. Something to look at. Is it popping and trying to fire or just nothing?
Lots of fuel, and timing mark has been lined up but I can't get it running to actually set it Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Check you have power at coil. If you do, crank it and check if you get a spark from a plug wire. If you do then electrically it should run. I've just been through some issues with my flathead. Try following the process in my thread and see what you come up with. (Dual Stromberg 97 tuning)
No cranking vacuum means there's no way to pull a combination of fuel and air into the cylinder where it can be compressed into a combustible mixture. You only need to be able to pull an inch or two of cranking vacuum to do this. Valve seating or valve timing problems can cause a drop in vacuum, as can slow cranking speeds. If you're checking cranking vacuum, disconnect and plug any vacuum lines to the intake and carb. And back out the idle speed screw and make sure the throttle plates are fully closed. http://what-when-how.com/automobile/engine-vacuum-test-automobile/
It sounds like it's going to go but won't. . It backfired through one of the carbs Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sorry Doug it doesn't seem to be doing that now. It is cranking over with spark and fuel in the lines Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Really? Because I haven't touched anything and it was running before Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Chances are it will be 'something' that YOU have touched. Go through all those things first. Get someone else to check timing - sometimes it the little things that you miss. New plugs do amazing things sometimes....
if it gets sloppy or worn it can jump teeth ( specially if its fibre or had a hard backfire or worn and reused if it was aluminum ) . a couple of teeth can rack up degrees at the distributor quickly and the valve timing will be way off too . and you said you had high rpm problems too ( sign of retarded timing )
Sure sounds like a timing problem, but every tune/fire up should start with a compression test. You say it was running bad before you changed things. DID you compression test it then? It may well have a stripped timing gear or a blown head gasket. Check compression now(on every cylinder. Make sure #1 is coming up to compresion just as the rotor is turning to the corresponding ( #1) terminal in the distributor cap.( turn by hand with your thumb over plug hole to feel compression building , it's easier if done while all plugs are out). If the rotor is pointing anywhere else but #1, take the distributor out and reset it.
Black soot and too much fuel sounds like same thing.... Sitting over winter - may be carb problem ? Stuck needle valve etc..?.
I have done this I'm sure it's in the right spot. Going to check fuel pressure and I have no idea how these carbs work so I'm going to trailer it back down to the shop tomorrow Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Yeah.. it is probably because I flooded it trying to get it to run.. you may be on track with carb problems though.. going to check tomorrow Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The Jalopy Journal
