This is my idea on how to pull it by myself. I'm almost 73 years old and can't lift like you young whippersnappers. I'll put it back in the same way with a transmission jack. The transmission jack is sitting on a heavy duty work bench under my lift. I can use the lift (up/down) and the transmission jack (up down/tilt) to take it out and put it back into the housing. I used a 3/4"x12" threaded pipe nipple, 3/4" Flange bolted to a 5/8" piece of plywood than bolted to my transmission jack. Works for me!!! After pulling my Ford 9" (70#), is it OK to let it hang by the yoke to let the oil drain before I put it into a shipping container? Will it cause any damage to the inside parts? I plan on picking the new rebuilt unit out of the container box by the yoke using my lift to get it out and onto my transmission jack. I don't want to cause any damage. This is the shipping container I will be using and as you can see it has to go in with the yoke up. It is a Scribner #5199 and all you have to do is bolt it in, bolt the top half on and it is ready to ship.
It'll be fine, I just set mine on a 5 gallon bucket to drain and keep any junk off the gears. On junkyard 3rd members, I lay it in a short rubber maid tub and spray diesel fuel on it from a garden pump sprayer to get the old lube out of it.
I have a "teardown bench" that I built years ago...a sort of small wooden work bench, with a top that is sectioned diagonally into quarters and the center is dropped down about an inch, then there's a standard metal drip pan on top, with a hole in the middle. Drains into a 5 gal bucket. I put the 3rd member on there, and roll it over do a different angle several times and it gets most of the oil out. You can do the same thing by putting it in a normal drain pan and moving it around a few times. Neat setup for pulling the rear with a floor jack. I have a similar gizmo but it's smaller, welded up from scrap metal. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/that-aint-no-quick-change.717193/page-2#post-7991196
My main question is.....will it cause any damage to the unit if I hang it by the yoke. After it has drained I will lower it into my shipping container. I can't lift it and must use my homemade setup to move it around.
I was just showing some stuff about draining and removing 9" rearends, since other folks already answered your question. The only other answer I was offering, is that you kind of need to move it around several times, and let it drain from different angles. It might be hard to do that if you're only supporting it from one place. So maybe lower it into a drain pan, disconnect the yoke from what's holding it, and move it around occasionally until it's drained as well as it can be.
You might place a few rags in the container to catch any drips that fall during shipping if you're worried about leaks. Once saw a sign, "you can shake it, break it and beat it against the wall but until you put it in your container (pants) the last few drops won't fall".
Leave it to a aggie to shake it----- beat against a wall------try to break it and then put it in a container. Will you never learn how to make tea?
I've had pretty good luck using a small plastic tube about two feet long which I run thru the differential housing lubrication hole down to the bottom the differential case. Then I syphon out the oil like you would if you were draining (syphoning) a gas tank. The rear end lube is thick so it is an over night process, but it's fairly clean (little mess). There is still some lubrication spillage when you separate the case from the housing, but not that much.
When the pinion gear is shaped like a screw how many tones of force is on the pinion bearing when you drop the clutch with sticky tires?
This is a video of the noise. 1. Click on the Attachment 2. At the bottom of the page...click on Open 3. Let it load 100% 4. Double click on IMG_0699 5. Turn up your volume
Sent it back and they said everything checks out OK. They did say the bearings showed excessive scoring with only 500 miles. They said it could be caused by Low Oil Level, Wrong Oil or Contaminated Housing. NOT....I bought oil they suggested, filled it to the bottom of the plug hole and wiped the housing clean with Brake Kleen before installation. I think it was defective bearings installed or improperly installed. They offered to build me a new one or give me a full refund. I opted for a full refund. They put it through the same day. It took 4 months from time of order to refund. Glad it's over!!!! I put my old 9" back in that only had a slight whine between 40-60mph. I can live with that after that terrible noisy new rebuild.
The Jalopy Journal
