GASSER MUST HAVES and cant haves?

I suppose everyone has their experience, beliefs and method. In this case it is his name and warranty so I will follow his beliefs for this one. He believes in Joe Gibbs Racing Oil which makes 8 bucks a quart look cheap! This is my first pro built engine which I expect to run better and leak less than my hack builds.

Cant wait for that first butt dyno pull!

 

I just dynoed mine with Valvoline VR1 50 wt, full roller motor. We broke it in with Brad Penn though.

 

GASSER MUST HAVE - good clean oil!

 

Ha ha ha, yup

 

My pal Ronnie Parcell ran an A/G '57 Chevy 210 in 1960, Fremont. Chevy had a 468" Pontiac, Hank the Crank, Venolia pistons, Isky roller, etc. Chevy went on a diet, Presto! A/G!

3 sorties to the digs and he was getting mopped up, needed to get into B/G.

A loose manhole cover found its way under the trunk mat, Sunday weighed in 5 lbs. into B/G!
It was a true 'Must Have/Can't have'.
Hillary the Official caught Parcell and Tommy Joe sliding the manhole cover out of the trunk in the pits...
"Hey, you can't do that!" Hill musta been right...

 

Um, sounds like cheating..

 

One day at Fernando running my 37'one of the cars stayed down under the bridge for a round, that's dirty pool in my book but they let him slide by

That's Racing !!!

 

Love those stories!

 

Ok here's a question......I will need an air cleaner or 2 (good clean air to go with my good clean oil).
I have a plan for the future that is a takeoff on the Hudson Twin H Power "coffee cans" but wont waste the time on that at this point.
What is period correct for 60's gassers runnin twin quads?

 

air cleaner? we don't need no stinkin air cleaner!

seriously, if you are going to drive it, you probably want a good sized air cleaner for each carb. I'm running 8" morosos that pass, but only if you use your imagination. I found taller filter elements that were originally for a 1970s Ford E100 van 300 six.

 

Just found these at WolkDesign
I like the non chrome

 

Kinda small....

 

I cant measure yet (engine hasn't arrived) how big can each be with dual quads?

 

Depends on the intake, but with that setup (edelbrock dual quad) they might be about as big as you can run easily. Edelbrocks web page says " Carb center to carb center: 6-7/16"" which is also the maximum diameter air cleaner you can run.

 

ahha I coulda checked that!
Thanks
Velocity stacks? I probably have room w/o cutting the hood but would be sucking the hottest air.
This is where I want to go for Hudson shows............
I would like to build a dual quad variation on this theme (in my spare time ha!)

 

Dave you could go a bit of home work and see what came on the 57' Chevy or Corvette with the 2 quad 270 engine, that would give the correct period look as we just ran the stock ones back in the day

 

they look pretty good....the big batwing on the full size cars is probably out of your budget.



or do the Dodge thing



the problem with both of these ideas, is that the air cleaner base is too small for modern 4bbl carbs. So....have fun

 

Yep, bet there is a non Rochester aftermarket replica for the vented vette ones. Doubtful on the batwings. Those Dodge are cool.

 

50 wt.???

 

Those vented air cleaner's just look right and what Duntov wanted to have on his cool 270 engine

A bit of history is cool too !!!

 

Same question for me too.

 

Well we started with 30 wt but the oil pressure was dropping over 5,000 rpm, not a ton just a few lbs. We switched to the 50 to see what would happen, same thing. It was still in the 10lbs per 10,000 rpm rule but non the less dropped at high rpm. We chalked it up to the oil not returning into the sump due to crank sling and the dyno being level instead of the 3 degree angle like in your car. I bought an assembled short block so no idea if there is a windage tray or scraper in the moroso pan. Something I plan on keeping an eye on down the road for sure when it's on the road.

 

Thanks. I suppose you're just playing or ET racing, and you have to do what's practical, but definitely a power loss with that wt.

 

You know as I was typing that I was thinking about the power loss between the the first and second day. The first day had 30 and the second had 50, a storm front had rolled in on the second as well and 2 degrees less timing. The second day showed 32 ft lbs at 4400 loss and 62 hp at 6000, not sure how much you loose from oil difference. Any ideas ?

 

I found this comparison online, not a huge difference really.
http://www.thedirtforum.com/oils.htm

 

Did your dyno guy use the correction factor or just observed power ?

 

My question also..Wouldn't the dyno software correct for the weather?
As far as the oil wt., I doubt it would make that much difference.
If you want to know which oil is really the fastest at any given time, you might want to contact a shop that builds NHRA Competition Eliminator engines.
Believe me ..they know.
That being said ,that info does change often!

 

Even if the dyno software can correct the out put, the dyno has to have the different instruments , far as inlet temp - humidity with a wet & dry bulb readings etc

That info has to be computed to get a correction factor, then checked a few times during the day ?

Some dyno's do not have the extra equipment for that stuff, plus you need a good fuel flow meter too

 

With the clearances that motors are built to today being considerably different than 40 years ago, due in part to better rings, bearings, machining etc. heavy oil can kill a motor built to today's specs. Pro Stock motors run ZERO wt. oil!!! On the other hand, many Top Fuel guys still use a heavy 50-70 wt oil, but that is due to the high amounts of Fuel contamination. It is very common to see 5w-20 oils in lots of basic drag race motors these days. It is rare you will need anything over a 5W-40 race oil if the motor is built per modern practice.
The old days of 10lbs per 1000 rpm are pretty much debunked now days too. For the same reasons as listed above. I've seen Pro Stock motors with 2-5 lbs at idle and a max of 40-50 lbs. John Kaase says that in the mountain motors they build (800+ cu in) 0-5 psi at idle is not uncommon and 50-55 pounds at high rpm is plenty even at 6500 + RPM. The only real exception is the 351 Cleavland and 429-460 Ford which have the main baring fed by the lifters and the lifters act like a restriction, so it takes more pressure to get to the mains.

 

He did compute the correction factors of the weather once the loss was revealed by duplicating the previous day's pull. The correction factor was not entered into the computer as he wanted real world numbers, he did try and explain the difference in the 2 days weather to my pee brain but it was kinda in-depth and he lost me after the first couple minutes. Like I said the main reason for running the heavy weight oil was to see if it effected the pressure drop nothing else. This guy isn't a fly by night operation, everything is cnc controlled in there and has some crazy expensive (60k) engines in there. He was talking about how they core drill the cams, roller bearings on the end cam bearings, lighten dart block, 15k for heads, etc. etc. the serious stuff for these roundy round racers.