Technical *** November 2015 Banger Meet - Holidays are just around the corner ***

Hi there. I am a lurker on the banger meet threads so I hope you don't mind me barging in?! I had started a thread regarding a Model A crank pulley and someone suggested I ask here. I need a pulley for this engine but the replacement I purchased is quite different from what I have. Can anyone tell me what is going on here?

 

There are one piece pulleys (what is on a stock Model A) and Two Piece Pulleys. The short shaft on the crank is the back half of a Two Piece Pulley, and will slide off of the crank. There may be some corrosion the may make if somewhat difficult, but it is make to slide on and off. Your new pulley is a one piece pulley. The benefit of the two piece is that it can be changed much easier when the engine is installed in the car. Good luck with your Model A.

 

Thank you for the clarification. I am seriously considering machining (and I use the term loosely) the new pulley to fit in the remnants of the existing one rather than risking damage trying to remove what is there? Thoughts?

 

Removing the part from the crank shouldn't' cause any damage, but it is a throwaway anyway. You may want to exchange your new pulley for a two piece style. The Two Piece Pully price is similar to the One Piece, but there may be different manufacturers, and the fit may be different if you try to match to the existing collar.

I would make sure the shaft is clean, apply some oil, grab it snugly with Channel-Locks, and work it free. If you pry the Tool, be careful. Also know that the rope seal in the block is against the the collar as well. For that reason, lube the new one when installing to protect the seal. I've done this in a paring lot.....at night.

 

Thank you I will give it a whirl!

 

I never had much luck running the two piece pulleys, after a relatively shorty time they start to wobble.

Herb

 

don't get the cast pulley , get the 2 piece steel pulley .
no offense but that's an ugly motor .

 

I will keep that in mind. Thanks Herb.

Any recommendations on where to get the pulley (if I can't find a used one?)

Oh and the flash makes it look worse than it is!

 

I got mine at sacramento vintage ford , but most venders have them . you have to ask or youll get the cast one . I lost 3 in a row so the steel one is on mine now . must be kept tight !!

 

I have a bunch of springs but they are here and your there, I would suggest finding a circle track racing supply

 

I always check to see how far the flywheel bolts go through because some are slightly longer and can damage seal housing. Once you find a number that works write it down. Some ARP bolts are slightly oversize on the shoulder and will bind in the hole. Don't trust auto parts guy when he says these should work, double check!

 

Here is what the damper looks like on the engine.

 

jimski , I think I got some ... thanks ... steve

 

Damper looks great. I am guessing that you are still waiting on the quote for pricing ??

 

I'm just pitching in: I've found two differet types, cast drive bushing and steel wheel (broke on my AA engine, causing the cast iron to explode all over the motor... INSIDE! Notice the debris in the pan: http://dannerrsblog.blogspot.dk/2013/05/crushed-belt-drive.html),
and steel drive bushing and cast iron wheel (http://dannerrsblog.blogspot.dk/2013/05/new-and-broken-old-parts.html) - which I've been runing problem free for +2 years now (except that one time, I put a 2x4 wood on it and it broke - but that's not the cast iron wheels fault!).

 

Hi, thanks again.
This Damper is a one piece design. It's all made from billet steel. We could cut the price down a little by using a pre made cast steel outer ring.
(China made!) but we don't ever want one to come apart! So,,,,,,,,,,,,
The outer ring is made from D.O.M, 1045 (NOT CHEAP!) They all will be made with 100% 1045 billet steel, plus the vulcanized rubber and balanced.
This one is an undersized pulley. We can make you one with a stock size, if that's what you want?
The cheapest we can make them is $350 plus shipping. (Not a bad investment if it'll help keep the crank together!?) I wish there was one on my Scat crank that broke after 2,000 miles of highway driving!
I'm sure there's a reason all modern engines run them!
Joe

 

Oh, I just remembered that five years ago, I payed over $200.00 just to get an old cast V8 damper rebuilt!

 

Joe, I'm in. PM sent, thanks

Scott

 

Hey guys. Still on the hunt for a water pump. I got the suggestion last month about an aftermarket model t set up but that's not the route I want to go.

Here's what I'm looking to do. I don't run a generator so I am looking to put the water pump in its place and pump out of the lower side of the block. I know there are modern billet pumps that would get the job done but I am looking for something that fits the look of the motor. I know there was some talk about this on the banger meet at some point but I can't find the post.

I hope some of you guys can come up with a few good suggestions or know the post that I'm talking about but can't seem to find.

Thanks in advance for your help fellas. Have a great day!

 

Okay, I'll get a shipping quote when I go to the post office to send out one for V4F.
I might get his out today!
Thanks,
Joe

 

Looks great! Will they come with a degree scale or timing marks machined on to them?

 

Hi,
Thanks, We're not sure of where people will be installing the pointers.
I'm going to engrave mine after the pointer is installed and a dial indicator is used to find true TDC. Maybe later have some aluminum decals made to stick on the damper after the user makes a pointer. (Just an idea now?)
We're not sure at this time of how many we plan to make. (probably not many!)
Thanks,
Joe

 

Joe,
What is the O.D. of the damper?

.

 

thank you .

 

As Herb said the 2 piece pulleys tend to come loose after a while
go for a quality 1 piece pulley
as normal there are some cheap ones around and some good ones

 

It's the same size as the early small journal sbc 6.100. We could've made it smaller but then maybe it won't do it's job as well? We know this size is proven to work well.
Joe

 

I have gad 2 of the Taylor dampeners slip on the hub. Kinda screws up the timing marks.

 

Not an endorsement, nor to criticize Sandmans efforts----but re-enforces a concern that I have had for a long time that dampers should be tuned to the engine----and the difficulty of doing so.

http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=4&zenid=

Herb

 

Hi.
Thanks for sharing the concern and the very interesting read.
After breaking a Scat race crank with only 2,000 miles, (Ca. freeway speeds)
I'm willing to try anything to solve this problem. The Damperdude is a (pro) Damper maker/rebuilder. He says this will work great for what I'm trying to do! (protect my crankshaft from harmonics.)
These engines are experimental once you start bringing out extra HP!
Joe