Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Major damage 1954 Ford Victoria Crestline Project

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by VonMoldy, Sep 14, 2015.

  1. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    [​IMG]
    That looks dope. What mods have you done?
     
    Lad_RoadDevils likes this.
  2. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,348

    56longroof
    Member

    Kick'n some serious as on those repairs. Keep it coming.
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  3. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    thanks for the comment. Sometimes I wonder if I am doing it right.
     
  4. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,348

    56longroof
    Member

    I was wondering the same when I did the rust repair on my '61 F-100. Had alot to fix but took my time and a few gray hairs later finally got it. Don't sweat it. Your metal work looks great.
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  5. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    Did some more things but nothing too exciting. I HATE GRINDING WELDS! Any tips you might offer would be welcome. I bought an air file but the compressor regulator is blow'd up so I had to use an angle grinder and a 36grit fiber disc. I get pretty nervous after patching in a panel that I will grind through the old adjacent metal!

    Finished up the floor brace and it turned out really nice. Old vs New

    10-24-15.jpg
    Lastly just finished welding in the patch and got the welds mostly grinded down. I think I hate grinding so much I will TIG everything. Also made a little patch for the rocker and door corner.
    10-24-15#2.jpg
     
    MyCrustyVW likes this.
  6. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,348

    56longroof
    Member

    I haven't checked into it but a body man told me there is a wire for migs called easy grind. Supposed to be easier to grind flush on sheet metal repairs. I haven't bought any or even looked for it yet as I had just bought a 10 lb spool right after I heard about it.
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  7. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    I also heard of this stuff Its made by esab and is really expensive compared to normal lincoln wire but maybe worth it.
     
  8. goldenidolcustoms
    Joined: Jun 13, 2010
    Posts: 329

    goldenidolcustoms
    Member
    from Pa.

    I've used the easy grind wire a few years ago and felt it was a waste of time and money.Gas welding is your softest weld and next to that is tig.
     
  9. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Looking good.Keep the updates coming.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  10. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    Well its a bummer it doesn't work very well for the price, but I am glad I didn't waste my money on it. thanks for the info.
     
  11. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,445

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    I hate grinding or sanding! I use the easy grind and I like it. There is a man here that does a lot of rod building and he says he only uses 4'' flap discs. I use a cutoff wheel to take down the most then whatever works. Don't stay in one place grinding , it will distort. I am getting better at welding , because I hate grinding!
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  12. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    Me too! I told myself I better learn to weld better if only so I don't have to grind! I think part of the problem is I am using my super old Lincoln auto helmet and I can't see very well so I cant see exactly where I am placing my tacks. I think I will also pick up a 3m green corps weld grinding disc and see if that helps.
     
  13. Good job on the repairs, making good progress. I guess the biggest issue is figuring out where to establish your main reference point for dimensions, and then build from there. Kind of hard to use the doors or fenders since nothing for them to mount to.

    I suppose you can use the good passenger side as potential reference dimensions?
     
  14. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,388

    Squablow
    Member

    I like to knock welds down with a big stone or the edge of a cutoff wheel, then finish with 4.5" flap disks, they seem to work great. I use an electric grinder because my compressor is annoying and will slow down after a while.

    A good welding helmet can be bought pretty cheap now and well placed welds make grinding a lot easier, something to consider.
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  15. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,369

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    I'm with you on hating grinding! I had great luck TIGing my fender in the other day and it was a dream. but usually I have to resort to MIG because my car is so rusty and all I wind up doing with the TIG is burning holes.
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  16. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    Do you have a reccomendation for flap disc brands? the ones at home depot seem crap. and are like $6 each!
     
  17. patterg2003
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 864

    patterg2003

    Try the Walter brand flap discs. They are a serious industrial grade disc that we have use for years in our mill. All the NDT and mechanical contractors are using them as well. I did NDT inspection and we used them all the time in the work of grinding down scale & rust or blend grinding. Our mill mechanics and welders swear by them as well. We used to pick up the flap discs left laying around after a big maintenance event that were lightly used & got a slip to take them home. You may have to go to an industrial supplier or a welding house to get the Walter discs. An Industrial welding supplier may be able to recommend a similar quality that you could compare with the Walter. Walters are hard to beat.

    We also use the Walter zip cuts for all our metal cutting or the band saw. I cut a 6 inch cast iron pipe this summer & the guys that I hired thought that I would need several discs. I cut the cast off and may have used an 1/8" so they are my first choice with the SAIT as a close second. The Walter discs cut fast & clean so it is easy to make nice cuts & safer to use. The discs may cost more but they will last better than any others that we have tried. Definitely heads and shoulders above a typical hardware brand.

    Walter drill bits are quality as well as they cut hard metals and stay sharp for a long time. I don't think you can go wrong with the Walter products. The little extra for the quality will go a long way & in the long run would be less expensive than a hand full of no name products.

    You are doing quality work. Good luck with your build.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2015
    VonMoldy likes this.
  18. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,388

    Squablow
    Member

    I have been buying the ones from Harbor Freight and they're surprisingly good. They're pricey by themselves but they sell these "combo packs" with 3 flap disks, 5 cutting wheels and a couple of grinding stones for 8 or 9 bucks, seems to be the best deal, although I end up with a shitload of extra grinding stones, they don't wear out nearly fast enough to demand two new ones in a pack.
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  19. Also check out Keen Abrasives (http://www.keenabrasives.com/). I've been buying from them for about 8 years now and have never been disappointed in their quality or service. They only do online sales but have great prices and great quality (equal to 3M, Norton, or anything I've bought at welding outlets IMO). Plus they have hard-to-find stuff; self-adhesive sanding discs in up to 1500 grit for example.
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  20. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    I saw these walters at my LWS I had never seen some with a plastic center. I just figured they were super expensive and never bothered asking the price on them. It is cool that they can be trimmed down though kinda wild how its trimmed. thanks for the recommendation never gonna buy diablo home depot crap again.
     
  21. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I just looked up the Walters abrasive disks and they are as you thought rather spendy. That might come down to a buy one and give it a try to see how it compares to the less expensive ones. I'm another one who has been using the HF flap disks and cut off wheels with reasonable luck and tend to stock up on them when they mark them down on sale.
    My son has brought me some flap wheels that tend to last a lot longer and work great that are from and industrial supplier but I can't remember the brand.

    It looks like you are making progress on the Ford and you sure did a nice job on that brace and the quarter.
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  22. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    Those walters are pricey! I found a similar product at Lehigh abrasives
    [​IMG]

    they have really great prices and think I will be buying all my stuff from them. ceramic flap discs for $2.99 each YES PLEASE!
    [​IMG]
     
  23. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,348

    56longroof
    Member

    Good find. I will have to check into that. I'm gearing up to get back on my unibody so I'll be needing those.
     
  24. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,970

    Finnrodder
    Member
    from Finland

    Any updates?
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  25. Jimmy2car
    Joined: Nov 26, 2003
    Posts: 1,707

    Jimmy2car
    Member
    from No. Cal

    Yes, waiting anxiously for updates
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  26. Edsel58a
    Joined: Jan 17, 2008
    Posts: 804

    Edsel58a
    Member

    Looking good. There I had a good door jamb cowl area I tossed in the scrap. Keep up the good work.
    I too have a soft spot for these cars.
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  27. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    I haven't worked on it in a while once it got cold and started up school again combined with working on my car to get it ready for paint it has been put to the side. But I hope either this week when its in the 50's will motivate me to work on it more if I have the time I will make sure to not be lazy and take photos and do the updates. Thanks for the support guys!
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  28. VonMoldy
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 1,562

    VonMoldy
    Member
    from UTARRGH!

    Did a thing.

    First thing was get the car level front to back so I can use a level to verify on the door what needs to be level and give me a good idea where things need to go.

    I figured since the whole car on this corner is gone it would be good to have some kind of reference points. I decided to use the door as it would be perfect for defining the opening and where the rocker should go in relation and all the other jank metal.

    I know this isnt very exciting for an update but for me it is. Psychologically its very nice to see that the giant hole can and will actually be filled and what it looks like not being a flintstones car and because once I get the door in the right place I can start welding everything else in like the floor brace the floor pan and of course the door and rocker panel. Everything after this will go really fast!

    So I fit the door.
    P1011675.JPG
    Using a atv/motorcycle lift thing is the business for lifting a door.
    P1011676.JPG
    Here is the door mostly fitted and it doesn't look too bad I welded some 1/8" metal round the quarter panel side to maintain a good gap and will be using more on the rocker once I get to that point so everything has nice gaps.
    P1011674.JPG
    More photos of stuff showing where metal needs to be removed and door and door frame need to be moved so it all fits back together nicely and the metal can be friends and then united forever once again.
    P1011677.JPG

    P1011680.JPG
    P1011681.JPG
    P1011678.JPG
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2016
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  29. I completely understand how you feel just seeing the door in place,what looks like a simple task is really much more that that,it's the relief in knowing that despite all the damage in that area was repaired to as good as new,congratulations on a job well done. HRP
     
    VonMoldy likes this.
  30. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,348

    56longroof
    Member

    Looking great. Keep it coming!
     
    VonMoldy likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.