Projects `47 Chrysler 3 window-Adding complexity.

Casper50, those floor pans look good...here is your chance to improve your welding skills. You are going to need some help with the task of cutting the Colorado pieces in.

 

After sandblasting the Colorado panels I have found some minor patching is required for them also. But not near as much as my original floor. The front extensions have arrived and look very nice. I'll try and get a photo today.

 

I have been working at getting the floors finalized, and the transmission cover is next...rust never sleeps.




The area around the lower steering column will be reworked to incorporate a column mount.

 

late but as promised. My floorpan extension is a bit different than these at the top inside. Mine has a curve as lonestar's does. Luckily my top 4 inches is rust free so I'll just cut the top off and weld them in. Other than that the seem to be an exact fit and made very well.

 

All the rusted areas are now repaired and lower column mount installed. I have substituted a `60 Pontiac Bonneville brake pedal pad



I have welded captive nuts where the factory had installed nuts and bolts...surely has to be easier to assemble and dismantle in the future
As an intermediate steering shaft, I am incorporating Borgeson components, coupled with the funky Jaguar vibration reducer and linear joint element to allow a degree of linear movement because the front end/rack is solid mounted to the frame, and the column is solid mounted to the body. there must be some range of movement there with the rubber body mounts that would stress the components to failure.
The gear selector linkage was fabricated using a Kugel Komponent on the transmission (T-700R4)



below image shows Jaguar intermediate shaft linear universal joint mounted to the rack spline.

 

Looking to tidy-up one of the less appealing areas on the exterior, the rear fenders always looked too bulbous with a proportionately small wheel arch.
I am trying out some wheel arch mods that will give the illusion of balance...starting with some masking tape lines.
I originally chose to remove the rear fender spears, however they visually decrease the height of the rear fender...I have included an image of a stock 3 Window for side profile...I am thinking perhaps retain the fender spears but raise them a little, and raise the wheel arch the same amount.
Does anyone have a suggestion here?

 

looking at that side view I tend to think that if you maintained the same profile as the front, and raise the fender spear 2" you'd be on the subtle but effective side of life.
Would I be correct at thinking that currently the car will have a bit of a front down rake? (based on arch/tyre scaling, when compared with that alternative side profile). I am interested to know if you can lower the rear to put the bias back into a tail dragging stance, without any bags or notching? In my mind that Blue one would look ace if the front was 1 1/2" lower at the front, and 3" at the rear, which would still be practical, but really supporting the 'factory custom' irony.
Cheers,
Drewfus

 

Here's two that I like.

 

2nd didn't make it

 

Drewfus, I plan to drop the rear 3" minimum, the front will have to wait `till I get it on its feet.
The squared off rear wheel arch profile is what irks me visually. The examples provided by casper50 are a bold modification, and body color impacts on the severity...somewhere between the masking tape and the candy wine car is where I will cut...

 

I have never been a spats kind of Guy, however reviewing the images casper50 has put up, I can see how those wheel arch radii would make it easier to remove and fit the wheel, something that would be near impossible on the side of the road with the 275 X 60-15" tires on the 10" rims without disconnecting shocks and suspension components.
Incorporating spats could moderate those large wheel cut-outs?

 

= skirts.

For those confused.

 

I like the curves of the bigger wheel openings over the square cut stock ones.

 

Purchased repro `41 Studebaker tail-lights from Alchemy here on the HAMB, Fabricated up some buckets to french them into the rear panel to clean up the Sticky-outy lumps the factory fitted...




I am still looking for some subtle indicator lights to finish off the rear

 

Like they were made for it. Cause they were! Stuart is going to chrome these after fabrication, so I cast them in bronze for him.

Keep up the high-talent metal fab!

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Jeff...and thanks for the timely delivery of the fine pieces for my car, you make a quality product I can be proud of.


Made in the United States

 

I have raised the rear wheel arch edge about 4" to open it up a little






The L/H side of this car was damaged from impact with an Elk...the L/H rear fender was also flattened as a result, the shape was wheeled back into it. I am going to wire the edges to stiffen them, I am scratching for tire clearance also, and wheeling some stretch in them will also help to flare the edges out.

 

Love the progress! Great metal work! Subscribed

 

I'm always gobsmacked about what the E wheel can do.. in the hands of a master operator.

Cheers, Mudgy

 

I finished both rear fenders today...probably the easiest modification I have done on this car, and a huge win visually...

After I trimmed the wheel arch edge to match my template, I ran a parallel scribe line to tip up the new edge for the wire, calculating 2 1/2 times the wire diameter





After tipping, the wire is clamped into position and the margin is hammered over








Before

 

That looks good and will probably make it a little better when it comes time to remove the rear wheels.

 

I was concerned at how I was going to remove the rear wheel on the roadside, figuring it was going to be Cell phone/credit card/roll back truck/workshop, however I can remove and replace the 15 X 10 rim@ 3 3/4" back space W/275-60X15 tire quite easily

 

The missing section of the R/H 1/4 panel in the above photos has been fabricated and TIG welded in

 

The front inner fenders lean onto the cylinder heads, I have removed the rusted battery tray (It will be relocated to the trunk), and pie-cut the lower shelf for clearance...

 

Looking good. Think my will need the same.


http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/My '47 3W Dodge build..960954/
My build.

 

I can't even remove my stock tyre with such small openings. I'm going lincoln zephyr rear quarters.


http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/My '47 3W Dodge build..960954/
My build.

 

Are you welding them on?

 

The Jag universal joint....does one have to take the whole steering column assembly out to get that piece? Or is the shaft able to slide down/out ?
...
below image shows Jaguar intermediate shaft linear universal joint mounted to the rack spline.

 

Gatz, I am able to remove one of the rack mounting bolts and loosen the other two, which allows me to rotate the rack down on its axis and the spline just separates...