Anyone on here have any luck with a cheaper brand radiator in their av8 builds??? I looked at Walker radiators and they run about $800!!!!
Radiators are one piece of the car build that I consider unwise to cut corners on and try to find a cheaper alternative. The aluminum radiators are cheaper but in my eyes they are out of place on a traditional build. BTW,if you buy a Walker radiator it will most likely last you as long as you own the car,the one in my Deuce sedan is approaching 2o years of age. HRP
You could always find a good stock A radiator and have it pressurized and a couple of extra nipples brazed on for your V-8.
Beeno,the last decent Model A radiator I found,after buying 3,needed re coring and by the time I purchased a new core and had the extra inlet & outlet added,plus pressuring burnt a big hole in my wallet,it did hold up well for several years although it did develop a leak between the core and the lower tank. HRP
I think I remember someone suggesting that a Ford 5000 tractor radiator is the right size, obviously it would need the right inlets and outlets added, and I remember them being quite reasonable from tractor parts stores.
How close are you to needing the one you'll actually run? I'd find an old one that fits first, build the car some more, and see if it still fits the build when you're closer to done. If it does, great, get that one fixed or buy a good replacement for it. If not, you'll know why it doesn't fit and what you need to get.
I've run the cheap aluminum rads in a few cars without a problem and so have my pals. Paint it black and no one will ever notice and if they do tell them to buy you a Walker.
I don't know what kind of shell you're using but I see you standing in front of what appears to be a '66 Mustang. The radiator in that particular car (for a V8) is quite inexpensive and may fill the bill. A number of people have gone that route for years. Whip out you tape measure and take a look.
I used an original and had my local radiator shop put a new core and also remade the bottom tank. I have done this on several builds because I like the original frame work. Much heavier and fit exactly like Henry designed it. I do feel the cooling is the same or better than an expensive unit. The durability is way above the best you can buy. While the core is out I bead blast the frame and its good to go! Normally about $450.00 Walter
I'll jump on the spend your money on the good radiator band wagon. I built my 47 ford in 1988 with an original rad that I had 2 of the inlets blocked off(sbc), it worked but you cant put a lot of pressure on it. That results in lower boiling point so it would heat in traffic. My 26 T modified with a flatmotor has a walker and I have not once had a heating problem. The 32 sedan I'm building now has another walker in it. Heres a good story. We went to a run last year and went on an hour and a half slow speed tour. I didnt have one problem. We got back to the starting point and a guy with a fairly high dollar car was sitting there and I said to him I didnt see you on the cruise, He said no I didnt go my car overheats. I looked later and it had an original radiator.
Try PRC, they are about half of what a brass radiator costs. We have used a couple of their radiators and they work fine. If you want brass, be prepared to spend money. The radiator in my 27 was over 25 years old and tired, so I took it to a local shop to have it recored (the tanks were good). They quoted me $ 775 to recore it, so I called The Brassworks and had a duplicate made of the one they made me 25 years ago. It did cost me $1000, but if you spread that over 25 years of expected life and good cooling, it is a bargain. Nothing takes the fun out of a hot rod faster than one that overheats. This one should outlast me. Don
Be sure you do extra grounds for the alumnium rad. No warranty usually if you don't. Never knew why but saw the black stuff after a few weeks of only setting in the garage running. Was a 50/50 mix with additive. No it was not casting sand.
Yep, and they were the only people who would build it. Walker and PRC said one that short would never cool my 331 Ford, but The Brassworks made the original 25 years ago and it worked great, so I went back to them. The cost was driven up by it being a special 3 1/2 inch thick core. But, like I said, if you spread that cost over another 25 years it only comes to about $40 a year. Sometimes there is no way around spending some money to make a car right. Don
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