Technical running leaf springs on a 1955 Buick

Its another 1955 Buick rear suspension thread, i did alot of searching on here and across the web and came up empty handed. I know all about the trailing arm method of switching over to a open driveline in a 55' but has anyone ran leaf springs off a 55 bel air or comparable car. The higheth of the frame on the back half after the wheel wells are taller than the rest of the frame ,would this matter. Any input would be helpful. Thanks Hamb

 

Here's a couple photos of a '54 or '55 Olds with leaf springs. The X-member frame is similar to the Buick, so it just might work, axle and all. Food for thought...

 

Chevy ain't heavy enough.

 

what do you suggest? shes getting a 9 inch out of a edsel and i was looking at chevy leafs. thanks for the pics

 

Why would you do this?

 

I think there is a significant difference between the Olds and Buick in the shape/contour of the frame rails in the "kick up" for the rear axle. If I am correct about that, it creates a problem with attaching the springs at the forward end under the rail. The spring runs 'uphill' to the rear.....incorrect geometry for the spring.

I have seen that dealt with by fabricating mounts for the front spring bracket inboard of the frame rail. While that will work, it places the springs several inches closer to the centerline of the vehicle and reduces the springs resistance to body roll.

There is a reason older Buicks are more often modified with either 4 bar or the truck arm suspension and retain coil springs or coil overs.

Ray

 

Someone out there should come up with a Buick "trailing arm conversion kit"! Make life a lot easier than 4 link or leafs.

 

Behind the axle the Buick frame is very wimpy, it would need to be boxed or re enforced for leaf springs.

 

The offroad sites typically have a large number of leaf spring mounting brackets that may help.

 

You might need to make a full sized sketch of the back half of the frame (side view) so that you can play around with the front spring mount location. For the sketch just cut out chunks of cardboard that fit along the bottom of the rail and transfer to something like the garage floor or a large piece of cardboard.
This also provides a place to show where the axle center is so you can figure out the length of the front-half of the main leaf.
Post some photos of what you have.


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BJR jarred my memory from owning a 55 and remembering back there isn't much in the way of frame behind the axle as far as strength to handle leaf springs.

 

Update: bought a set of trailing arms off a 72 c10 and the crossmember problem solved! thanks as always guys

 

Good move

 

Very wise decision! I will do that too with the 53 Special, since it will have SP400 transmission in it, with the Straight 8.

 

Just look under a modern PU or leaf spring SUV. The rear spring eye is always about 4-6 inches higher. It gives more controllable handing at the limit than both eyes the same height

 

What rear end are you using with the trailing arms? I would think the C10 rear end would be the obvious, since the u-bolts will fit right up. Perhaps the panhard bar too.

 

This is an interesting comment. I am not disputing what you say, but want to know how that geometry works in that manner. Can you refer me to a suspension article or book wherein I can pursue that subject? Thanks.

Ray

 

As for rearend i picked up a 9 inch that came out of a Edsel once upon a time. Its a big bearing 9 inch that came factory with 5x5 bolt pattern as did the big turnpike cruisers did too. Haveing some problems finding hardlines for it and e brake cable at the moment.

 

Hot rods to hell torque tube eliminator.




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Looks good ^^^^^, I made a similar setup for a 40 olds coupe.