Technical ~~~ peaking & polishing a 32 axle ~~~

As often is the case, my small weld wasn't enough, a small spot still remained. I didn't have the clamps needed to set the spindles up in my mill, so I gave them to my buddy who does all my machine work. After abit of set up he spot faced all the recesses where the backing plate bolts go, they didn't get completely clean, but look much better. The area where the spindle was machined for axle clearance at the factory bleeds into the recesses, nothing I can do about that, will just blend and smooth.

 

Using an angle air sander I use small discs to smooth out the under cut for axle clearance, this takes awhile. It's getting closer, and the small discs lose their cutting ability in short order, so it takes a few of them. I detailed the ends of the arms where the tie rod attaches, I left the tear drop shape just smoothed and blended them.

 

Outstanding workmanship and attention to detail as always!
I love roloc discs, but hate the cost just about as bad as filling
my argon and A/O tanks

 

The under cut is fully blended, and the area that I used the carbide on under the upper king pin boss is as well. All the edges have been rounded, there are still some small spots that need attention. There is some minor pitting that will stay as trying to fill would difficult. The small circle where the steering stop hits will get detailed with some small tapered rolls.

 

Harv,you are just so talented...Kudos.

 

The back sides have some pitting, even though it doesn't show, I did some minor clean up. I removed most of the machining marks and smoothed out the pitting. I used a fine Scotch Brite pad and gave the bearing and seal surface a quick clean up. The seal surface does have some pitting, and if this was an all weather daily this might need a turning and or sleeve, but will be fine as is.

 

harv...dude...they have pills and therapy for your affliction

 

Yeah and to think some guys just want to paint their stuff black.

 

Someone will drop off a Flathead block for chrome prep work next. Bob

 

^^^ NOW THAT would be good to see !! I have an aluminum Buick 215 project brewing. Geez ... as if I need to love Harv anymore. It's about as close to rainbow love as there can be already. Somebody shoot me !

 

Thanks kind words, you too Larry , it's rewarding to help guys with their rides. When building hotrods we spend countless hours getting vintage sheet metal perfectly straight and many times frames as well, why not chassis parts too? Cleaning up pieces as I do would makes the final appearance that much better if painted, and it's right out there for all to see on an open wheeled hotrod.

Speaking of blocks, I may be doing a Hemi, will post if I do...other parts in the works as well, nothing is safe

 

I've been on long time lurker on this thread....it's beautiful work!

 

Great work Harv. Some may have concerns about removing metal when polishing. These concerns are usually unwarranted. Removing pits and machine marks in metals actually relieves stresses and weak points where bends and cracks can start. Making the surface more uniform ( by polishing) actually increases strength. Just like polishing rod beams in a high performance engine.

After years of polishing steel parts for gun bluing, trying to keep surfaces flat, not funneling around screw holes, polishing with paper, wheels and files, till fingers were cramped and bleeding, I can really respect what you are showing us.

Thanks for taking the time to post this thread. Gas and guns

 

Forgive me for sounding too picky as this is a near perfect analogy.
I don't think the wording "increases strength" is quite correct but as gas&guns said;
it definitely will maintain the existing strength and eliminate any "stress risers".

 

Exactly, it removes or reduces the weak points

 

I agree "increases strength" probably isn't the right term. But by removing flaws like machine marks or deep pits, an opposing blow or whack doesn't have one specific area for a crack or bend to start. The force is more spread out through over more of the surface. Doesn't actually make the part harder like a heat treat.

 

Beautiful work as always Harv, what is your plan to restore the seal surface ?

 

That's up to the owner, I think it's fine as is. Maybe when they are chromed they can fill it with copper.

 

The under cut on the other one was too deep to sand out, so I took it down as far as I could and filled with weld. As always I had to do it several times, but it came out nice. I chamfered all the holes, and smoothed them up as good as I could with the small abrasives. Being these are so intricate and hard to polish, I went over to a friends and used his buffer. I used two different compounds, they still need some more polishing but came out pretty nice.

 

Here they are, they still have some fine scratches that the chromer will have to polish out, but they came out pretty good.

 

That is just sick, talk about eye candy!

 

Nice work as always Harv!

 

Pretty good???
Harv, those are stunning.