Does anyone have a good wiring diagram for the ignition switch on 1955.2 Chevy 3100? Finding a lot of wiring issues with my truck and would like to make sure right wires are attached where they should be. For example, I have two green wires (one terminal) that was plugged into the ignition switch, the two ends were found unattached to anything, one hanging below dash and other coming out at starter but not attached. When testing these in off and on position of the key, they did not have power with either, but positive with continuity tester. So I am confused at what these are supposed to be plugged into. Thanks ahead of time
The original wiring was kind of strange, there was a "bypass" wire connected to the ignition switch, to bypass the ballast resistor. What type of ignition does it have? Is it a big HEI distributor? If so, it does not use a ballast resistor, and that would explain the extra wires. This is kind of hard to read...but if the truck has been modified, it might not be very helpful, either.
The headlamp switch with its 2 feeds had me 'lambasted' with the 'Painless' book... A real pain. Substituted a Ford switch... Don't get ruffled...it was in a '54 F100. (a Ford)
Thank you for the diagram. I have been able to find that but it says for models 3600+, is this the same on the 1/2 ton? I am really in need of the back of the switch itself, as some of the terminals seems to be hot all the time, others when in the on position, and others appear to be grounds. I am going to take it off tonight and will post a pic to see if anyone has any suggestions.
How about you take a bunch of pictures of the engine, dash etc and let us see what you're working on.
Here are some pics...let me know your questions and I will do best to answer. The green wire that is unattached to anything next to the starter traces back to the double green wire coming out the back of ignition switch. The red hanging down under the dash traced to the red and black double wore coming out of ignition switch. It is hot when key turned on. The green does not get hot in any key position.
Oldbetsy, Looks like the loose wire in he pix with the alternator is leftover from the old generator harness. Most alternators don't require a separate regulator. ......................... Jack
The red wire might be left over from the generator wiring, it might have connected to the ammeter in the gauge cluster. The green wire could be from the ballast resistor...what does the firewall look like, above the engine? Is there a ballast resistor? It's a white ceramic block, a few inches long.
I don't see any ballast resistor, nothing in between the wiring that comes from dash and goes to starter
Next conundrum-I have taken out the dash and the ignition switch. -With current connections in place, the following is what I have coming off the ignition switch. the green wires that are "dead" that are hanging below the dash and the other hanging by the starter is connected to the IGN 1 spot. I have tested this with a multimeter, it does NOT have power in either ignition switch position, on or off (truck has on the floor starter so there is no position 2 in the ignition switch). IGN 2 had nothing connected and again has no power with either key position after testing with multimeter. Battery spot on the ignition switch goes to directly to ammeter, the second battery post is empty. ACC connections are as follows-brown straight to electric wiper motor, there is a purple wire that appears to go directly to coil, green wire that goes directly to fuel gauge on cluster, red wire that goes to turn signals, the last two wires connected to ACC are green and it has same connector as the fuel gauge connector but not hooked up to anything and a red wire that was clipped at the end. On the gauge-the ammeter has 4 total wires, one thick black from the starter (from the battery), red that leads to the battery position on the ignition switch, brown wire that leads to horn and red wire that goes to headlight switch. After tracing all that and comparing to the diagram for the wiring.....it is pretty different. One, the diagram shows regulator, I don't have one. It shows battery spot on ignition going to headlight switch, mine goes from battery spot on ignition to the ammeter then to headlight switch. On the diagram it shows a resistor prior to the coil, I can't seem to locate one, as it goes straight from ACC ignition switch position to coil. I did measure voltage pre coil 14.4v and post 9v when running. The wire that goes tot he wiper motor seems to be straight from the ACC ignition switch, but the diagram has it going through a resistor too. The ammeter on the diagram leads to the voltage regulator (I don't have one). So, as you can see I am a little flabbergasted. I have posted a lot of info, can anyone make sense of this? Is the way that it was wired ok? Do I have to change anything for safety? It was running fine before, but since I noticed all the extra wires hanging down, a couple hot wires and the fact that the green wires were dead no matter what I did (IGN 1 position) I wanted to make sure everything was done correctly before continuing to drive it. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (ahead of time)
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