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Technical 1932 Pickup Rebuild Thread UPDATED 1/11/16

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Dennis Lacy, Apr 5, 2015.

  1. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    The reason I brought up the road draft tube (RDT), is in my humble opinion they look
    good.
    And there is nothing that look more out of place then a 350 in an 32 truck. But a mill that look like a junk yard find of a 265 or 283 straight out of a early 55-58, with faded but good paint, RDT and stock looking aircleaner. Factory stock look.
    But that might just be me.

    I like the look of the parts you got, but the air filter looks like it's border lining another era. But a RDT would change that for the better.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1432921153.849242.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1432921194.636205.jpg
     
  2. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    And there is no reason you can't use the road draft tube as the air inlet and carefully plumb both valve covers for the pcv valve.
     
  3. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    I will give the road draft tube some thought, guys. It does look like I'm going to be sending the air filter back to Summit because I failed to realize that I wasn't going to fit with the other engine item that arrived today. I'm going to need something smaller diameter and agree that a more vintage-looking air filter would be better.

    I don't like the appearance of alternators on traditional hot rods or stock-style early Fords, regardless of the engine being used. The idea of mounting one on my engine was really bugging me. Looking around at what's available new I just couldn't wrap my head around spending $420 on a Power Master Powergen and certainly don't need a 100amp output to run lights and ignition. Looking through the HAMB classifieds a few weeks back I came across a post from alliance member Rotten Leonard advertising that he is now stocking "stealth alternators". After some communication with him I decided to give one a try. They are rated at 45amp (perfect for what I'm doing) and only $250 plus a little shipping.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    The unit looks very nicely built and I'm looking forward to trying it out. Holding it up to the engine today is when it became obvious that the Edelbrock air filter wasn't going to work.

    If anyone is interested, here is a link to Rotten Leonard's Jalopy Shop. Looks like he sells some neat stuff.

    http://www.rottenleonard.com/

    And, a link to his post in the HAMB classifieds:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/stealth-alternator-conversion.967105/
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2015
    volvobrynk likes this.
  4. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    Quote[ I plan to paint the engine Ford dark engine green (flathead color) and have all of the accessories black. I don't want a lot of shiny stuff. I want the truck to be a truck and be kind of plain like Ford did originally.]Quote

    Kinda, sorta reminds me of a certain 3w engine... :)

    DSC06488[1].jpg
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2015
    kidcampbell71 and volvobrynk like this.
  5. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Imagine that, a green and black SBC. I must have seen pictures of it somewhere before...

    ;)
     
    3wLarry and volvobrynk like this.
  6. 1/2 a job Larry, you should have done the water pump and intake too.;)
     
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  7. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,188

    clem
    Member

    image.jpg image.jpg After trying to find a generator,

    I used the same type alternator, called a dynamator and adapted it to my flathead, even though they said it couldn't be done. Haven't sorted out a fan yet, but has been great for last 6 months. Have still to trim original brackets.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2015
  8. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Which is why I got the black intake and my water pump / riser housing will be painted green to blend into the engine.
     
  9. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    I've got an NOS 283 road draft tube if ya need it. And I have an extra lifter valley oil catch can that is used with the RDT.
    Personally, I prefer a good PCV system to the RDT, because they eventually leak oil onto your undercarriage.
     
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  10. studebaker46
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 715

    studebaker46
    Member

    you are right Larry the tubes had a filter like a s.o.s. pad and wer supposed to be cleaned periodicaly when the filter beclogged they would make a helluva mess Tom
     
  11. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,639

    thirtytwo
    Member

    I bought a offenhauser altnator pully from speedway for a customer car that mounts a fan ....the hub on a power gen is same as the GM alt the pulley was meant for , the car is not running yet but looks like it should work
     
  12. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    '32 Front Axle Set Up - Part 8

    In my last front axle set up installment I had made the adjustable drag link rod but after selecting a couple of original tie rod end housings I ran out of time to get them cleaned up for finished pictures. Below is the mocked up drag link which is essentially a shortened tie rod. The end housings are oriented how they will attach to the spindle and pitman arm.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    Earlier this week I picked up my spindles from the machinist after having the kingpin bushings honed to fit the pins. The last step of the spindle preparation is to install the wheel bearing spacers. These spacers are necessary with hydraulic brakes to correctly position the inner wheel bearing, which in turn correctly positions the brake drum relative to the brake plates. They also provide the surface that the inner bearing seal rides on. Shown below is a spindle and the two spacers. One side of the spacer is chamfered so that it will seat flush when installed.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    The spacer is slid onto the spindle with the chamfered side facing in. Depending on the wear of the spindles the spacer will either slip on or need to be tapped on with a piece of tubing and a hammer. Once installed the spacers should not be able to turn. Regardless of how they fit the spindle I run a ring of red Loctite around the spindle before fully seating the spacers.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    Then the spacer ring is seated firmly against the spindle.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    Repeat for the other spindle and the spacer installation is complete. At this point all of the set up work for the front axle assembly is complete. Everything has been broken down and the axle, wishbone, spindles, tie rod/drag link rods, spring perches, lower shock mounts and spring center clamp hardware has been put into a pile and will be delivered to our powder coater during my lunch break on Monday. While that stuff is away I will paint the spring leaves, tie rod housings and other hardware. Once everything is coated and painted I will fully cover the final assembly. Stay tuned!
     
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  13. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Since I'm making a trip to our powder coater on Monday I decided it would be best to take as many parts as possible. With that in mind I disassembled the pedals and washed them. I was very pleased to find that even after 20 years the bushings and shaft are in excellent condition and neither will need to be replaced.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    There are two basic versions of pedals in the 1932. Most of the ones you come across have grease fittings that screw directly into the pedal bushing boss. However, very early in production the pedals did not have grease fittings. Instead, the pedal shaft was drilled and had a grease fitting in the end of it. The chassis for my truck is a very early production version with a ID number dating to January of '32. So it was one of the handful that were constructed before production was shut down to make way for the new V8. It's no surprise that my pedals are the early version with no grease fittings.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki
     
  14. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,172

    waxhead
    Member
    from West Oz

    Keep up the good work, and thanks for posting the tech information. Some invaluable stuff in here.
     
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  15. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Thank you sir!
    Now the question I have is what brakes are going to run? 48 F100?
     
  16. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    I'm going to be using MT Car Products reproduction early Lincoln Bendix brakes. We are dealers for MT so I get them at cost. The really nice thing about the MT brakes is that the plates are available with the smaller center hole and smaller 3/8" mounting bolt holes like the '32 spindles I'm using making them a bolt-on. I would have shown a picture of the brake plates but we have been out of stock for a few weeks. We're going to be placing an order very soon so I'll show them as soon as I get some.

    I'm not a fan of the F1 brakes on early Fords, especially fender less cars. Because they are 11" they just don't look right to me. That, and you can't run early Ford wire wheels with them.
     
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  17. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    But the spacer so the same for the F100 I hope? I have a nice set of F100 and that is what I will be running due to lack of cash, but I plan on 15" truck wheels anyway.
     
  18. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,188

    clem
    Member

    Thanks for that!
     
  19. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    I can't recall ever doing a mock up with F1 brakes and the adapter/spacer kit but it should work the same as for Ford or Lincoln brakes.
     
  20. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Hmm ok. Guess I will have to try it out and see.
     
  21. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    If you'd like, I think we have a pair of F1 brake plates at the shop. If we do I could mock it up and confirm that it works?
     
  22. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    It is ok. I have all the parts here, and a few tricks up my own sleeve....lol
     
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  23. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,710

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Dennis, that is very generous of you to offer, though. ;)
     
  24. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 634

    jerseyboy
    Member

    One of the best threads I have read on the HAMB! Thanks Dennis.:D
     
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  25. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,893

    Mart
    Member

    Dennis, sending pm re drag link.
    Great thread.

    Mart.
     
  26. TigerFan
    Joined: Oct 29, 2010
    Posts: 148

    TigerFan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Athens, GA

    This is like reading a suspenseful book (well, to a hot rodder). I can't wait for the next chapter!
     
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  27. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Me neither!

    Today I did do as planned and dropped off a big bunch of parts at our powder coater. I also got my front spring leaves painted and have a batch of hardware and small parts to paint on my lunch break tomorrow. If all goes to plan, by the time I get the powder coating back anything that needed to be painted will also be done.

    I really can't wait to start putting my truck back together. It will also be cool to have some assembly done for the strings of visitors we get coming through the shop in June around the time of the LA Roadster Show. :)
     
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  28. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Well, I mocked it up anyway! Yes, the adapter ring and bearing spacer will work excellent with the F1 brakes on early spindles. The only thing that needs to happen is a straight edge cut on the adapter rings flange (making it a "D" shape) to clear the wheel cylinder since it is lower on the smaller diameter 11" F1 brakes.

    If I were doing it, I would plug weld the 4 existing brake plate mounting holes then lay out and drill 4 new 3/8" mounting holes using the adapter as a guide and make the bolt circle square to the wheel cylinder so that the plates aren't tilted back like original.
     
  29. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Sort of what I am thinking. I am going to build an adaptor plate that will register in the id of the baking plate and cover the bolt holes. Then weld holes closed and re drill the baking plate to match the 34 spindle. I am thinking of turning down the spindle down to 1.125 the sleeve it up to the F100 bearings original 1.312 diameter and seal diameter. I have a bunch of 301 stainless scraps at work which should work great for this. My spindles are a little rougher than I would like in the inner bearing journals.

    And I have lots of cool tools at my disposal.
     
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  30. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Today I received my order from Classic Industries which included '58 - mid 60's spark plug wire retainers and the heat shields for around the spark plugs.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    Yesterday I got the spring painted in two thin coats of semi-gloss black. You don't want too much paint on the leaves (and never powder coat them!) because it will create too much friction between them. The paint will also rub off and build up between the leaves further adding to the friction.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    Today I painted most of the small parts and hardware for the front axle assembly. Things like the spring clips, Pete & Jakes shackles, tie rod housing seal cups and a handful of castle nuts.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki

    Before the week is over I just need to paint the 4 tie rod housings and their clamp bolts & nuts. We should also have a fresh batch of MT brakes in stock before the week is over so I'll need to take the front brake plates for powder coating once they arrive.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.

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