Projects Oil pan gasket

I have a 1954 Chevy 210 and I need to change the oil pan gasket....my question is do I have to take out the motor to do this

 

you should be able to remove the pan without taking out the motor

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/06engine/6_020.HTM

 

I didn't see anything in that link for replacing the oil pan gasket brother

 

It tells you how to remove the oil pan.....without removing the engine. Once you get the pan off, you have to replace the gasket and install the oil pan.

beware that these instructions are for the 49-53 cars, and the mounts changed in 53, so you may need to do things a little differently.

 

Awesome thank you

 

I'd pull the motor and put it on a stand.
Laying on your back on the cement or dirt is too brutal. I'm kinda oldish though.
When its out, you can spend all kinds of money you hadnt budgeted. Like a timing chain and gears, clean and paint it real good and because its all exposed. Another $200 for bearings, what the hell, go for it all.
Thats how it worked for the Galaxie.
oops,,,,,did I rant a little,,,,sorry,,,,,,,,I need a beer,,,,,,,,,,,,with a shot innit.

 

Timing chain?

 

i take it that your changing it because it has a leak but where is it leaking from? if it is running down the back of the pan it probably is from the rear main seal and changing just the pan gasket will not cure that. rope seals can be changed in the car but are a little tricky.

 

Well I just put the motor in and forgot to put it on but I just now started it up and drove it and got one block down the road and its smoking and it sounds like my crank is hitting my oil pan and I don't know why any ideas????

 

check the flywheel covers

 

Could be you dented the oil pan.

 

Year there's a dent in the bottom of it

 

Is it an "innie" dent, or an "outi" dent, and was it dented when (ie, before) you installed the motor? An outie with noise is a bad situation, particularly if it wasn't there when you installed the motor.

 

Its an inni dent and no it wasn't there when I put the motor in but a guy (not me) jacked the motor up on the oil pan to put the motor mounts on

 

Well I think I know one guy I wouldn't let near it again. If he's jacking up the car on the oil pan, what else is he doing?

 

An innie dent in the bottom of a Chev oil pan can cause the oil pickup sump to be stopped up starving the new engine for oil and burning up the bearings. Knock - knock, pull the pan and see. Also, this may be an older engine without incert bearings ie:babbit bearings that may have to be re-poured or replaced, big job and very expensive.

Good luck, Dave.

 

LMFAO I have been in that situation it came right after a loud bang.

Changing the gasket wh=ith the engine in the frame should be no biggy, I may suggest getting it as far off the ground as possible you will thank yourself for that later.

if the pan is dented hammer it out while you got it off and take a look at the lower end for obvious things like a loos cap or signs that something has been banging into the pan. Something banging into the pan good, loose cap bad.

 

OK problem fixed car is running but I have another small problem 1 spacing the push rods and 2 I have an hei and I don't know what the plugs should be gaped at??? Any ideas

 

I don't know what spacing the push rods means. if you are talking about valve lash it depends on if you have solid lifters or hydraulics.

As for spark plug gap run them as wide as it will run and fire them. I would think that an HEI in a 6 likes .044

 

It has solid lifters

 

I would run a plug gap of .035" to .045"

intake .006
exhaust .016

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/13supplement/13_16.HTM

 

It it very difficult to replace a valve on a 235 online 6

 

I've never put one in

 

Low compression on number 1 valve ???? Only 25 pounds, how can I fix this

 

you will need to pull the head.

 

Replace a valve? Just the gasket ?

 

It had a compression test done on it and another test and it was blowing alot of air out the exhaust and a little out the intake???

 

Maybe just a valve grind will cure it, you have to pull the head just like any valve in head engine. if you don't have the equipment on hand to grind valves you take it to the machine shop and have them do a valve job. Then you go home and install the head and adjust everything and you're a happy camper.

Low compression could mean that you have weak rings or a burnt valve or just need a valve grind. If you hear it leaking down that is not a good sign, but before I pulled it down I would run a compression check and then loosen the valves to see that the valves were seated. if it is still leaking down then it is time to pull the head.

 

As p&b just wrote, loosen the valve lash adjustment off on the two valves of that cylinder until you know they are closing completely and then run that compression test again.

Dave.

 

Do you have to have a manifold gasket on a 1954 235 straight 6