The minute man swap and sell was ok, but I didn't buy much. Was really packed though. I am definitely going to the Fitchburg meet and hopefully the one starting up in Maine; I heard Biddeford Saco line. I have really been working on getting set up and buying stuff to make a furnace out of. Hopefully will be melting and casting parts in the not too distant future. I have been waiting to start my molasses rust removal due to still freezing temps. Other than that, I appreciate the advise. Learning to weld in the patch panel was good for me, even though I could have gotten a cross member. Anyways, that could have taken it out of square. I hope to see boxing plates on my doorstep Tuesday.
Well, another update. I ran my furnace for the first time and it works, so yippee. I went to the Fitchburg meet today and bought only small things; teardrop tail lights and a cheap speedo from a 37 ford; just got it because it was 10 bucks... Anyways, here is the video of my current project. Advice on the brake drum key would be appreciated. Also, which rear spring should I opt for? Posie's with two leave removed http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Posie...s-28-31-Ford-Model-A-25-Inch-Drop,118695.html Or this one that seems thin and flimsy, but will definitely lower and be cost effective http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Medium-Arch-Transverse-Rear-Leaf-Spring-Reverse-Eye-38-Inch,43786.html I want to get the rear situated and see the drop so that I can then decide on the setup up front.
Ben, I've got a couple reverse eye front springs that I didn't bring to Fitchburg when you're ready. They're not going anywhere too soon.
Good to know. Bought all of the parts needed for my brakes today. Any suggestions on the rear suspension?
Did you get the lever shocks with the car? If so, rebuild them, if not, find some or plan on running gas shocks (probably the cheaper option lately if yours are gone). For your rear spring, I think one of these should work: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mediu...r-Leaf-Spring-Standard-Eye-38-Inch,54063.html Add a single leaf from an A pack to locate it in the crossmember. They come in reverse eye but those are tricky to stretch IMO. There's nothing for the spreader I made to grab on to.
Just thinking ahead here, but want to know what the general consensus is around here. I know that I am going to keep it unchopped. I like how the car looks honest with no chop. I am thinking of making a non-louvered hood for it as I have seen a couple photos of non-louvered off colored hoods and I like them. Here is where the question comes in. Is channeling a good route to go? I like the look and maybe keeping it unchopped will keep it comfortable, but how much time will it add to my build do you think, and is it worth chasing on a first time project? I have to say that now is the time because the body is all apart. Thoughts?
Well you don't have a subframe, so channeling isn't going to be much more work for you. Just fabricate a subframe or get one and kick it up 4" around the frame.
I would channel this car,no sub rails/frame makes it a easier decision for me.I just cut out my intact sub rails in order to channel,wish I did it sooner. For me if it was my car,I'd be building sub rails and not buying stock ones.square tube sub rails are easy to make and kinda fun actually. That car is going to need a lot of bracing, so why not channel and make it even stronger than the stock rails
There's a Metal Supermarket in Woburn, Ben. http://metalsupermarkets.com/bostonnorth/ I haven't been yet but I am SUPER STOKED about it. Finding tubing and sheet had been a thing I had to order previously. As for construction, I'd do some searching for channeled A builds on here. Here's one with a bunch of different builds: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...channeled-car-lets-see-how-you-did-it.556115/ I was thinking about this on the drive into work this morning. I'm thinking with a simple tube frame, you can get most of the way there. Then where you need curves to attach the sheetmetal to, you can attach plate cut to the correct contour with strap welded to it. That way you don't need a bender or a roller, just a welder and a cutter.
There is a book called "Build a Modern Model-A Frame,Blueprints,Dimensions and Plans". It is about $17 bucks. Please google this book. Some lengths of steel for a frame is very inexpensive, compare it to boxing plates and other repair costs. I hate to throw cold water on this build but, the frame you have is really really rough. I think Patmanta and some others here are gently trying to say that you need something better, maybe if I saw it in person I would see it is not so bad, but the photos look bad. I will be following along to see this awesome hot rod evolve, best of luck to ya.
I must confess I like your build so fare, but if you channel it and lower it, and don't chop it, I will love it! True east coast style! But I would consider doing your own subrails. If you got a break it should be able to bend you own. I have been thinking about doing my own. If you do it very simple, it should be very fast to make the with a drop/channel in them make an edge the can hold wood floors on the inside and attach it to the body, so you get a nice drop on it. I try If I can do a picture of how I would do it, if I can find the necessary picks to aid me.
I would do the subrails like this: I would do them in regular sheet metal, 1.2 or 1 mm. That would be something like 16 or 18 gauge. Bend them up in the brake, and do them as long as your brake is. Make sure yah the joints in the upper part don't overlap. Make holes in the upper part, a good 2 inches a apart. All the way along the sides, and weld them up so they look like rivets. Make the curve in the outer edge the same shape as you body. I'm not a fan of the square tubing for sub rails. It looks to modern to me. But to each his own. If this doesn't make sense, feel free to ask!
Looks good Ben.... the body of my A was a little worse than yours, but since the body on mine was chopped when I got it there wouldn't be much headroom if I channeled it... heck my head hits the roof when I hit big bumps now with it being un-channeled! If you do plan to keep the body on top of the frame the subrails help keep everything in line and make a great foundation...
Ben, I've got a simple brake if you want to bend up some channel, but tubing is going to get you on the road a lot sooner.
Question: since I have everything off and my body all apart (going to have to re square) can I just start playing with metal for the length of the frame, and just leave excess all around to later trim to the shape of the body? Although tubing might be popular, I like the idea of the sheet metal more, as it looks more factory correct and professional. For something that is going to be there a while, it should be done right imho.
Hey Ben I've been spending a long time in my head, to come up with that subrail design. Not that it is very complecated, more because there is more then one way to skin a cat, and this is how I like it the best. I would measure up the length of the body from cowl to center of rear axle, thats the length the subrails needs to be (make extra). you will also need the piece for the toe boards, and for the cross sections. But make the pieces up as you go, and start with the cowl. Everything is adaptable, , and measuere everythinh a couple of time, also on the square. http://www.smcars.net/attachments/1930-31_ford-a-coupe-jpg.105978/ Post some pictures of progress, that would be nice.
Google search....."Ford garage,model A ford coupe assembly"..........lots of good pictures and info there.
nice to see your still at it Ben. I have not forgotten your quarter panel piece but will have time later today to fetch it for you. I will text pic. Any luck finding doors? They have become quite pricey. I found some sedan doors I think I will "make" into coupe doors, should be a challenge. Let me know if you need anything else
Keep up the good work, fixing rust on the Chevy pu. is a big job and probably won't help the value any, but it will give you lots of metal working experience.
A few hours work... For a more in depth video, and if you want to see the result of molasses rust removal, watch this...
I am about to go quiet for a while so that I can surprise some folks, but I have a question first. I love all my original stuff and kinda want to channel my car. I already bought my brake rebuild set for 250 bucks and have started restoration. I want to get this thing rolling asap, but I have not seen a channeled car running mech brakes, mainly because the body must get in the way. Here is what I think my car will look like no channel. Does it look kinda wonky? I am looking for a solution here that can let me keep as much as possible. Thanks.
GO BEN! Great project. I like your videos. Keep us posted. My first car was a 31 sedan. Should have kept it...
Your car is a good candidate for channeling due to your subframe situation. But you'll be adding some challenges beyond just the channeling as far as the mechanical brakes and maybe the steering column. You keep using the word "restoration" in this thread, which confuses me really. Are you trying to build a hot rod or restore the car? If you're going to channel it and hop it up, rather than spend the time and effort trying to make the mechanical brakes work, you should really just bite the bullet and go to juice brakes. You will save yourself a lot of time, effort and headache as well as have a car that's ready to handle some power as well as simply driving up here.
I understand what you are saying, but I think the whole point of an old vehicle like this is the whole experience, as I am not going to the drags anytime soon with 50hp. That, and I know that mech brakes last forever and even though I have done juice brakes before, once a tire is locked up, it doesn't matter what kind of brake linkage you have, correct? And on the restoration front, I am really just restoring parts. Not really hotrodding my brakes or stuff like that lol.
You've got the right attitude for sure. What I guess I'm saying is that now is a good time to channel and if you don't think that the mech brakes will work for your build with said channel, go juice or go hiboy/mech. I'm hoping someone with a mechanical and channeled car will pop up here but I can only call to mind hiboys running fender skirts.
Ehhhh. Now you got me thinking. What copious amounts of research has told me is that juice brakes offer more control because the lever action of mech brakes have little travel between locking and slowing down, which can be dangerous. That and the fact that I would have to adjust them monthly has me thinking... Now I have to check swap meets and refer to my tardell book again. Btw, I ordered the new tardell book on engines. Hopefully it is good!
I PRE-ORDERED that book! I should have it soon. Read up on juice brakes and try to get some at the swaps. I have a stash but I'm kinda hoarding it for now. Any time you can get a complete setup (front, rear, or both) it's a good idea. Otherwise it's kindof an expensive PITA to find all the bits. The cheapest way to get that stuff around here is usually buying entire front or rear ends that have the brakes and drums still on them. I think going juice is definitely the way to go for what it looks like you want, a channeled Model A hot rod.
That is what hot rodding is all about, upgrade to a better brake system as almost all hot rodders did. then you will think about a flat head v8 instead of the 4. Then a better trans. Then a better rear end. Then a better............. anyway, that is what hot rodding is all about, faster and better.
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