I need more brake pressure and want to switch from a 1" bore to a 7/8" bore. I looked around a bit and it seems most in that size are for modern Japanese cars. Anyone know of any American style double reservoir master cylinders with that size bore? Thanks.
Might have better luck with a 3/4, bore Iam guessing no power asst.? go to rock auto you might find what you need just dont buy it from them
Dont know what you want to spend but wildwood has them $300 apply your own grease, also if you have drum in back you may have to change your P valve to prevent lock up, less you got some really big tires back there
I just fitted a Wilwood 7/8" unit. Very nice quality. Worked perfectly as expected. Current Summit price is $269.95 with free shipping http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-12900-p/overview/
I recently found this info on another forum. HRP Here is some info on master cylinder with "constant" of 6 to 1 pedal ratio and 100 psi being applied. 3/4" master cylinder = 1359 psi 13/16" master cylinder = 1158 psi 7/8" master cylinder = 998 psi 15/16" master cylinder = 870 psi 1" master cylinder = 764 psi 1-1/8" master cylinder = 603 psi
I think my brother's Morris used a vega 7/8th" master cyl ....or it could have been an opel unit. Had enough pressure to get stopped but damn! The pedal went almost all the way to the floor every time. Was a dual chamber, disc/drum unit.
I used a 7/8" master cylinder on my 54. It was the same bore as the original one pot master. It is listed for an 81 Dodge Aries and takes standard 3/16" brake line fittings, no adapters necessary. It is best to buy it new so it come with the reservoir, most of the time the reman cylinders dont have them. Autozone shows the for under $30. Cesar
I would not use a master cylinder for any FWD diagonal-split system, like the "K" car platform one above, on a RWD vertical F/R split system. Each half of this master feeds just one small front disc caliper and one small rear drum wheel cylinder, and will have marginal fluid displacement for larger vertically split brakes.
I am running drums on all four corners on my car so volume may not be an issue in my situation. Do you think the ones Wilwood sells in this style are different internally than the stock Chrysler MCs?
I think you meant 100lb not psi, this is actually an easy calculation; its just the force on the pedal times pedal ratio cylinder divided by the area so for a 7/8" bore master it is: (100lb x 6)/(pi*0.4375^2) = 997.9 psi. Also a lot of fox body Fords came with 7/8 bore master, according to Rockauto.com 79-81's did for future reference. Ryland
Here's some info from Pirate Jack that tells how to calculate your pedal ratio and what your psi will be with various combinations of pedal ratio and bore size: http://www.piratejack.net/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=10
So I just picked up the Monza master cylinder I ordered. Much to my surprise it has a very shallow hole in the piston, the kind that is supposed to be for power brakes. I thought just about all power brakes used a bore size larger than 1". I've noticed that there is rarely any mention of whether a m/c is intended for power or manual, even when ordering they don't ask. I've been warned that if I use the piston with the shallow hole, my pushrod will fall out and I'll die, so I'd think this would be a critical spec. Now I don't know what to do. Maybe I'll try drilling the hole deeper.
65 to 67 ford Mustang in mine. You can get manual( no booster) drum/drum or manual(no booster) disc/drum it has the deep hole in the piston.I think it is 7/8" but might be 15/16 some check that out.
The 80 Ford Fairmont also uses a 7/8 bore master. The hole on the piston looks deep in the Autozone website. Part Number: NM1764 Weight: 7.28 lbs Warranty: Limited Lifetime Notes: With reservoir Installation Hardware Included: Yes Item Grade: OEM Standard Master Cylinder Bore Diameter (in): 0.875 Master Cylinder Color / Finish: Metallic Master Cylinder Material: Cast Iron Master Cylinder Port Sizes: Primary 0.5"-20 , Secondary 0.437"-24
All of the late '60s-'80s power brake Ford masters I use or have seen have a deep counter bore, but is probably not be true for all makes. Some boosters have a supported/guided push rod and can safely use a shallow counter bore. Some manual systems may have push rod angularity issues and need to keep the retained push rod shallow to prevent any binding in the bore. In most cases, the power and non-power master bores for a given vehicle remains the same. If you're going to use a unrestrained manual push rod, you need a deep counter bore. And, no, don't be drillin' on the primary piston! Find the proper master.