Technical TECH MONTH: Stepping lower A arms(king pin style)

Band saw works well, otherwise im sure a cut off wheel and a grinder would work fine.

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

like this thread.. wish there was more measurements posted.. like where the are was cut back to from the bolt hole section.

 

I'm doing a set now, but I have a better way. I'll post it up when I'm done.

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Kool it would be Kool if you can keep me posted. Thanks

 

Awesome to see my six year old thread still popping up and helping folks! As shown and mentioned by several guys, it's a method that's been around since these cars were new and there are countless ways of doing it. I just used what I had laying around in the garage at the time and wanted to show that you can do it with the most basic tools(all I used was a cutoff wheel on a grinder and my welder). @lowroder, if I remember correctly, I usually cut them 2'' back from the ends. That way it's far enough out to clear the bump stops(this mod is pointless if you cut them too far back and the end that you step up still makes contact with the bump stops), but gives plenty of clearance for the upright as the suspension cycles from lock to lock.

 

Got rid of my wagon couple weeks ago. Wana build my 47 fleetmaster. Saw your post and it proved helpful.

 

Here is a pic of my 53 Belair I did the lower arms on a few months ago. This is stepped arms with 1 1/2 coils cut in the front and 3'' blocks in the rear(and saggy old springs all around).

 

looks great droploard49

 

Looking good. Love the stance.

 

To check for bump steer, measure toe-in (wheels straight ahead, level ground, vehicle driving weight). Should read 1/16" to 1/8". Place jack under front crossmember and raise up until front tires are off the floor. Measure the toe-in with car in this position. Should read close to the same as normal ride height toe-in. If not the same (or close) you will have bump steer.

 

How's the handling? Bump steer etc?

 

All the Chevys I've done this to, drive great. Haven't had one yet with any adverse affects(bump steer, etc).

 

Can you use 3'' Drop Springs Without Any Other Suspension Changes Like Uprights, Steering Arms? Or Stepped Arms? Just To Lower 3"

 

No bumpsteer, handles great for thousands of miles now. Yes you can use just 3" drop springs but you lose that in suspension travel.

 

That's awesome. Seems like a no brainer $600 for dropped uprights vs. a couple hours of your time. I have a long time before I need to start thinking about this but I'm pretty sure this will be the way to go. Thanks for the write up.

 

I might just use 3'' drop coils

 

There are issues that come along with lowering these cars with springs only.
Camber adjustments, bump steer, etc...
If you can't do this mod yourself I would suggest having someone here step them for you. That's just my opinion but I believe that you will be much happier.

Good luck either way..

KK

 

If you're lowering a shoebox with 3" coils be sure to get the adjustable camber plates from shoebox-central.com. That's your only chance to correct the alignment. The kit is like $45 and @shoeboxdoc is a great guy!

This thread brings back a lot of memories droplord. This post motivated my dad and I to get working on his shoebox again, and this is how he was going to lower it. We found out he had cancer in 2012 and six months later he was gone. I kept his shoebox though. Thanks for the memories.

 

Thanks to this thread I'm about to step the lower A arms on my currently stock 53 210. I wanted to get opinions before ordering my other components. I would like to end up with a very low look, with a slight front rake. Initial plan is to step the lowers, order Jamco 2" coils and shocks for the front and 3" blocks for the rear. Thoughts?

 

I stepped mine and cut 1/2 a coil. 3 inch blocks in the rear. It sits level.

Maybe using your original coil springs and cutting a coil will get you sitting right!

 

Thanks 3lsBoy..how was your ride after stepping and cutting?

 

Bob Heinrichs was doing this at his San Jose shop "Heinrichs Automotive" in 1955.
The operation was called, "A-Framed". His method was to leave the lower threaded eyes intact, and to lap weld a pair of 'shackles' on, then bore and tap the ends.
Your method is worlds better, I had him do my black '56 Cad Coupe De Ville in '60, with cut coils and alignment total was $46.00!
After picking it up, I was cruising by Spivey's drive in, sittin' low, playin' the role...and drove right into an open manhole! (a 'gasser pilot' had absconded with the cover, to get down into 'C Gas'...)
Tow truck, back to Heinrich's...
Repair torn out frame bolts, replace left lower 'A Frame', and re-tab it, straighten and align: $110.00!
Unexpected tab for 'lookin' cooool'...

 

It's a 52 btw. It rides great actually. The worst thing you can say is if you get a couple.people in the back it bottoms out on the drive shaft tunnel. Maybe some different shocks would help.

 

I finally have mine done enough to drive a bit and so far it is great! 2" A-arm drop w/ 2" drop spindles stock front springs, stock steering arms w/ power rack up front. 4" blocks in rear with reverse eye springs and stock shocks rear.

 

Cosmic. You got the stock floor pan? If yes, are you bottoming out?

 

I haven't bottomed out yet but haven't had anyone in the back seat either.. and yes stock perfect pan and I am sure I will have to cut it but really don't want to because it is so perfect. I hate thinking about it.
As of now my biggest problem is making tight turns, the fronts really rub the fender edge bad. Not real sure what I am going to do about that yet.

 

Is the front end on 47 chevy Fleetline the same? I would like to do this.

 

Great thread you started, droplord. It seems to have a life of it's own.
BTW, real nice welding.

 

Anyone run airbags with stepped arms?

 

I don't know, but a highly skilled guy could sure correct some camber issues by shortening them the right amount!