OK OK I admit it, I have a severe case of cabin fever here in WI.....so bear with me... I may have posted on this before, but would appreciate any help from someone running a similar set up to mine... I am (71) years old, so grew up with the old NOT HOT engine syndrome... Having said that I have the following in a '63 Biscayne 2 door... * 283 bored .060 over to 292 * 305 HO heads * Melling L79 (old Corvette 350hp 327) type cam * Running I think advanced ~12 degrees (not positive on this) * Using radiator out of a 66 Chevy with a single electric fan (from Junkyard, not sure of cfm) * 2 1/2" Ram Horns and full 2 1/2" exhaust * Electronic ignition * Edelbrock Performer intake * Edelbrock 550 cfm carb Engine is fresh with ~9000 miles on it. I have a 180 degree thermostat in it, and during the cold weather it stays right at 180. (cold as in 40 degrees outside) Don't drive it in the winter, but did take it a out to change transmission a few weeks ago and went ~30 miles. Summer time when the outside temp is in the 90's on the road it will run up in the 190-195 range. Always will cool back down to ~185 or so when idling.. Never boils over or comes out the overfill when shut off. SO...................am I just being an a paranoid old fart ???? I have another radiator from a 396 Chevy that I can install, plus was wondering if a dual electric fan would help.. If I am going to make a change, I want to do it soon before the good weather hits... Any help from those of you actually running one like this would be appreciated, as well as obviously those of you who really know about this stuff... Thanks much,
I hope your cam is not + 12 degrees.Must mean timing? First where are you taking the temp from ?Heads tend to read hotter then intake manifold. If it cools down when stopped and idleing it is not an airflow problem. Actually if it doesn't get over 195 and your using the heads for the sending unit ,it probably isn't a problem. Just my opinion. My stuff runs 200 on occasion.
Yep Joe, I meant timing advanced ~12 degrees. I have two temp gauges .... one on the engine at the water pump return, and another at the rear of the right head. Also have used my "Red Dot" heat gun all over the areas when stopped so confident in my numbers.... Thanks for your and answers..
my experience here in our Texas heat if that just an electric fan does not cut it. A good engine driven fan with a good shroud will out do any electric fan. With that said I wouldn't worry about running an engine at 195 as long as it stays there. If it keeps creeping up then you have a problem. I ran a SBC in my 38 Chevy with just an electric fan for a few years and had a nagging heating problem even with a good quality aluminum radiator. Replaced the SBC recently with a warmed over 409 and put a 6 blade stainless flex fan on it and took the time to build a good shroud. Now the 409 runs cooler than the 350 ever did.
I had a 283 bored to 292, in SW Washington state and it ran HOT till the day I put a 327 in my 55 Chev.. I hated worrying about that darn Temp Gauge. I am 71 years old also.. not old FOR a rock, or a tree..
Do you have the electric fan in front or behind the radiator, in front blocks some of the cooling tubes, and makes for a hot spot where the fan hub is, behind is better if you have room, Dont use a flex fan, I had a blade fracture and exit thru the front sheet metal for the wheel well, you got a lot of over bore, so above 190 is a little hot not bad, these old blocks dont have the nickel content that the later blocks have that run 190- 200 all day long
This. Also make sure you have the correct vacuum can and it is working correctly. Google "two inch rule" and look at the appropriate results. In the end though I don't think 195 is a problem either.
Do you just wish you came up with it first? I know the feeling. But the part of it puking when shut of sound wrong, or is that just me?
For cooling a rod in Texas summers (lots of 100%+days), a fan on the water pump nearly as wide as your radiator AND a good shroud will do it.
I was always under the impression that a 0.60 over 283 was perfect. I guess the guys with them didn't want to admit they ran hot. One of the HAMBers implied that later 283 blocks may not run hot at .060 over. So, the later blocks are just better ? Guess I learned something else today.
Not to confuse things, but should also clarify that with my gearing I am running close to ~3000 rpms at 60 mph..... I usually try to hold about 55 when cruising....nope don't do much interstate driving.. I will be comfortable now with these temps, although I still will change to the 396 radiator. Only because I have it an it is a lot newer....
Your temps are fine when you start getting into the 210-215 range you should rethink it maybe and if you hit 225-235 it is time to get it to a hose and cool it (spray the radiator with the engine idling fast.) Anyway don't sweat it, they run best between 180 and 200. Water doesn't boil 'til 212 (actually 208 @ our altitude) of that helps.
195 is where it needs to run to boil off acids in the oil that form from blowby past the rings. (normal). I'll be 73 next month, so you're just a kid.