Looks brand new! I'm not looking forward to dropping the whole rear end to change out that one seal. Seems like it's gonna be a lot of work but the satisfaction of fixing that leak will be worth it. I'm gettin tired of the car 'markin it's territory' wherever it's parked. Wow that setup is beautiful! Thanks for the link. I'll give them a call and see if I can get some flanges and maybe a header kit. Ive been tossing around the idea of building my own header(s) for the straight 8 and just blocking off the bottom of the stock intake. I wonder how the I8 would sound with dual exhaust?? Thanks man. I think it could be a little lower in the back but I didn't want to cut the frame. I wanted to be able to take it back to stock if i wanted to. There's not a lot of these left uncut. damn that looks sweet!
Great looking Buick!! On my old 52 I ran the 41 intake and exhaust set up and ran the exhaust true duals. Sounded great too. There are a couple of videos I posted on youtube . One of the engine detail and another of the car running for a sound bite on the Smitty glasspacks. The left motor mount modification was very easy too.
cool, how did you run duals out? cut a hole in the right X frame? how did you get pipe over to right side?
@anythinggm thats clean. The 41-42 intake and exhausts are hard to find in good shape. They are pretty pricey too.. even the pile of rust that probably couldnt be restored was $900-$1000. There is a guy on here sellin a complete s8 with a stuck valve for 2k but it has an edmunds intake,carbs, and custom header. If i was going to drop a grand on an intake thats what id rather have. Hell I'll just build a header, i think it'l be fun. Just out of curiosity, what did you have to do to the left motor mount?
Yes I patterned out the holes from the left side and used a plasma cutter to cut the holes on the X member on the right side.. Also mine is a dynaaflow and to allow room for the pipe run back I eliminated the OE trans cooler on the side of the trans and just ran a universal on in from of the radiator. As for the Right pipe, as it dumped out of the manifold it turned and went forward to the lowest part of the oil pan than cut over to the passenger side. I spent over an hour with the guys at the muffler shop mapping out the whole system, plus since I was air bagged we had to make sure everything had clearence thru all suspension travel.. Here is a youtube video that shows more of the pipe work. Video of the detail...... Video of it running and sound bite.....
Cut the tall bracket on the frame down to flush level with the top of the frame, weld a plate flat on the top of it. take the bracket bolted to the engine flip it over, cut and trim a little off to fit nice and your done. You can see more if it in the video if you closely..
here is the before and after of the intake/exhaust system. I purchased it from a man who found it in a barn. I ditch the stromberg carbs in favor of Holley 59's off a flat head ford, they bolted right up!.
do you need the pulleys and cables for the wipers also? are you going to build the exhaust header, or do you still want the manifold?
The devil is in the details. While finishing up some wiring my buddy noticed the brake lights were acting up. Long story short we ended up having to completely rewire the brake lights. We removed the OG wires, drilled holes for new wires under the old riveted wire terminals, made up new contacts for the light sockets, switched some wires around, and added a common ground to get them to work correctly. We were drinkin beer and it was minuscule shit so I didn't take any pics. When I got the car all of the instrument lights were unhooked so I hooked them up but they would keep blowing fuses and burning bulbs because of the old wiring shorting out on the grounded buld housing. I decided to fix them the same way we did the brake lights. Took a little time and whiskey but using my new found wiring skills I decided to fix em' the 'right way'. Step 1: make stout jack N coke Step 2: take old lights apart Step 3: cut small lengths of wire. Strip one end 3x longer than the other Step 4: fold long end of stripped wire over several times to form a flat, somewhat round surface Step 5: solder Step 6: shape soldered end on grinding wheel Step 7: assemble Step 10: make new drink, hook em up, and enjoy!
Admire your job on this ol' lady,thinking i'm going to imitate you... Instead of JD & Coke i select Jim Beam because i've to much empty space in wallet! You r doing a damm good B.O.B thread,subscribed... Soon springtimecruising! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Brilliant !! Devil is in the details. Will keep this idea stashed away for mine. Dad's 52 did the same thing, kept blowing fuses. Fixed ALL but one... traced it back to the interior dome light. Unfortunately his upholstery is OG and in great shape. Not going to pull headliner for that.
Thanks Jock, I wish my ol' girl was in as good of shape as yours! @oldwood what are you chasing now? @EBW I don't blame you one bit. Unfortulately I don't have a dome light or headliner.. Pretty much all of the interior lights and door switches are MIA. How's your buick comin along?
I might have extra parts for you, but won't know for a bit. So far so good on my projects. Trying to finish the Ford and get it running first, then the 49 Sedanette will be up. Purchased a 49 4 door donor, and just got another ENTIRE motor to rear axle driveline from a 50 Sedanette that is going the Hot Rod route. Hoping I won't need anything after that. Only piece I am missing now is the Rear outside SS trim molding.
Haha.. Yeah I will start once I get going. Mama had a few Honey Doo projects I had to do and am almost done, so the Cars will get the attention soon.
I had a Buick that had a couple of quarts in the driveshaft once! Haha. I replaced the seal two times before learning that I needed to install a thin sleeve where the seal had worn a groove. After the wonderful experience of trying to align that blind spline, I had an idea... before pulling the rear, I locked the rear brake shoes with the adjusters. i was then able to pull the rear end back, install the seal, and the blind spline was still in perfect alignment with the tran, slipping right in! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Gotta keep the Kitty in the bag but it is a '50. The fat Lady isn't singing yet. Ya know what I mean???
Gonna have to steal the bulb socket wiring trick as well. I only drink beer in my shop tho' as the last time I drank hard stuff, I woke up in New Jersey and I live in South Florida.
Dropping the oil pan is easy. The 2 front oil pan bolts have a relief in the frame with a 1/4 inch drive. Good chance to see what the inside looks like. Drop the Oil pump and clean. Drop a rod and main and see how healthy it is. When your re-installing the pan the blue plastic stud will help unless you have more than 2 hands, It also helps the gasket stay in place as these straight 8's are long and it will try your patients. I didn't have a lift when I did mine.
Got the new H.E.I. distributor in today. It's a really nice piece but it did not come with a distributor hold down plate. The original looked like it was part of the distributor so I had to make one. For those who would rather buy one you can do so here: http://www.precisionautomotivespecialists.com/Buick-Straight-Eight-HEI---DUI-Conversion.html Like all of my brackets they start with a detailed template. This one was made with the classic grime/dirt rub over paper technique. Then some precision plasma cutting and ALOT of grinding lol
I did it twice since the first time the pan gasket was crimped and leaked. That plastic stud sure would have came in handy.
They come in gst sets. A buddy of mine gave me a few. Without them it would be a pain. A lot of mechanics that do engine work should be able to hook you up with some
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