home made tools and equipment...

Got the belt yesterday and installed. Need to add a tensioning bolt to make the belt tighter as the blade stalls under load... Headin to the mancave now to work out the kinks.

 

I cut some 1/2" plate yesterday. Like butter.

 

That did the trick. Are you using the treadmill type ribbed belts? Mine is a j8 meaning 8 ribs on the belt.

I got a middle of the road bi metal blade. I might get a better one before getting that crazy.

 

yes it seems to have very good oil pressure as i found out.left an oil line out and it quickly pumped black gold all over the shop floor lol

 

The blade should be fine.

 

No, post 2563 & you can see the v belt.
I needed to get custom Length blades. So I called mk morse and had them spec a blade based on what I told them I want my saw to do. Would you like that info?

 

I'll be amazed if that 2HP motor has enough beans to run that.... That's why big compressors have big motors on them....

 

It's is up and running fine
Just need to finish the pluming
Don't worry I had my doubts too and had a 10hp motor ready but doesn't need it

 

I'm on a roll so here's another lame one. Trying to figure out the easiest way to put this old craftsman belt sander back to work, it's slacked most of its long life. Thought about the tire rim and leftover treadmill but instead I rolled out this empty cheapie tool chest and cut just the right size hole out of the top. Convenient and comes with its own dust pan.

31 Vicky. Thanks but mine takes the stock 93.5 inch blades. I think I need to try different speeds. I was doing 2 mph

Edit. Turns out a sander on a rolling cart rolls when you put your shoulder into it. I moved the setup to a stationary table made from treadmill scraps.

 

https://vid.me/C0Bb
hope this link works
home made compressor

 

Two ex metal hospital side tables
Weld together with some new wheels
For mobile tool cabinet
Oh and don't forget the red oxide

 

Rims and pipe make movable stands

 

You're outta control JD. What kind of project are you gearing up for?

 

Check my build thread lowcoe
I'm two pages into yours dunno who's out of control lol

 

Lmao, thats definitely a case of the pot calling the kettle black

 

I have just skipped through and read a fewostings. About the band saw improvements, are these bandsaw meant for cutting wood that have been modified with a treadmill motor so you can cut metal? If so wow. I see the saw meant for wood fairly often at garage sales but never one meant for metal. This could be very helpful.

Does anyone have any creative uses for insulated motors off of old gas pumps?

 

Those are explosion proof motors. You can use those anywhere, although if you want to retain the explosion proof rating the conduit/flex conduit needed won't be cheap....

 

I was just wondering if the motor was anything special in and of itself regardless of the insulated/ explosion proof aspect. Are they AC or DC?

 

The ones we used were AC and we put an arbor on the shaft for a buffing pad and that baby has enough power to throw your part for some distance.

 

Yes , you surely can use wood bandsaw, You have to slow it down to about 125-200 rpm. Use a 3/8"-1/2" bi-metal metal cutting blade 12-14 tpi

 

I got an Olson blade off of amazon. I think I fried it already. Same specs as above. Kind of disappointed. I cut some 18 gauge sheet with it not much else.. Searching threads on do's and don'ts of cutting steel.

 

It is NOT "125-200 rpm", it is 100-150 feet per minute (fpm)) of blade travel. To figure fpm mearure the outside diameter of the drive wheel in inches and decimals of any fraction.
Multiply this by "pi", or 3.1416 to get inches of blade travel per revolution of the drive wheel. Multiply this by the rpm of wheel, giving you inches per minute, and divide this by 12 to convert to fpm.

 

ugly, but it works well and gets a lot of use...

$5 bench sander from a yard sale, $3 big ass motor from another yard sale... the tote-saw on top gets a bit of use too (it was $10 from a swap meet).

 

Built the sand blasting cabinet from plans out of a old Eastwood catalog. HRP

 

That driven pulley looks small and your blade speed will be high because of that. Also your torque to the blade teeth will be low facilitating stalling at Low blade speed.

Just a guess. So you up the speed to stop the stalling and fry the blade quickly because the FPM is beyond normal for steel.

For comparison, I can cut 100 of feet of 18 gauge on one blade if straight cuts. Cutting radii cuts blade life by 50% or more.

 

That's a good looking cabinet HRP
Your workshop is way to neat and tidy

 

When I worked at a school bus dealership a few years ago we had these using 100# semi brake drums that were worn out. Had them all over for bench grinders, vices to using multiple with scrap steel welding them together to make an anvil base.

 

31 digesting your build thread. Delicious. So driven pulley is the one not attached to the motor? The pulley attached to the motor is very small maybe 1 inch in diameter. The one attached to the saw is maybe 3.5 in diameter when it Boggs down the small one spins. I'm guessing larger pulley equals more surface area , more grip and less slipping, equaling more torque.....

 

Yes, the driven pulley is the one on the saw. To cut steel you need a much bigger saw pulley. A better solution is to use a counter shaft or jack shaft, with a small pulley on the motor and a big (12")pulley on the one belt end of the jack shaft. Then a small pulley on the other end of shaft then a large Aprox. 12" pulley on saw shaft. Tread mill motor would be a very good solution. You have to get the saw RPM much slower to cut steel.

 

They'll be AC, and probably less than 1 HP single phase. Other than being explosion-proof, they're just motors.