Projects 27 T Roadster build

Wilson Welding sells a nice Lincoln Bendix style kit

 

I've been searching for options all over the place. Maybe I should have asked, what do you guys recommend?

 

Lightweight car, moderate power and top speed, you should be ok with the 40 Ford non energized style, but a better drum setup would be the self energized Bendix style.
Of course this is assuming you want to keep the early style look and action.

 

i just want to make it safe and stop when I want to stop. I was looking for a disc brake kit to fit the 1930 chassis that comes with the car but haven't had much luck yet

 

Ok got it all home today. Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of the structure of the seat back and trunk floor?mor pictures of the the rear end structure? This one needs som attention

 

http://www.fendersnmore.com/products/examples.php

 

Got the rear frame work of the car built this afternoon

 

Looks like the body is the front half of a touring with the back of a cut-off coupe attached.

 

That's what it looks like to me, too. I think it could work, going to need to rework the tops of the quarters and a few other areas to get the right look though.

 

I kept thinking the same thing. There are parts of the car that kept telling me it was part coupe as I went from back to front. Whoever tried to mate the 2 was off by a bit, but we fixed all that today. Reworked the quarters and replaced all of the metal we had to in order to make everything line up.

 

I recognized it because I've got the exact same thing sitting in my back yard. I bought mine at a swap meet last year, but plan to peel the coupe parts off and rebuild a touring from it.

 

Good to know, thank you for that guys! I sat and looked at this car for over an hour and KNEW this wasn't how it came from factory. The majority of the rear frame for the trunk has been rebuilt by an old fabricator who did a nice job, but where he tried to connect the 2 had to be removed and replaced with new metal, properly? I'm pretty grateful to have a retired boiler maker as a father in law. He's been the one buzzing away on thus body for a couple days now.

 

I'm watching your build, look'in good so far, good luck with your project.

 

Getting this body stitched and straightened out

 

Other side

 

The passenger/seating area in this car is considerably larger than in a factory sized roadster. Not a bad thing, actually, just different. I look forward to seeing this one come together.

 

some 18g and a shrinker/stretcher will make a nice top rail for the turtle deck . looking forward to seeing what you do . a little different is always nice.

 

We have to replace the rockers and then start on boxing in the frame. We have a flat crossmember, tranny cross member and will be replacing the rear buggy spring one with a piece of 2x3 rectangular steel. Then move onto the parallel 4 link in the rat and a spilt wishbone and dropped axle front

 

Started on boxing in the frame today

 

I think you might want to put more braces across your frame before welding much more. Lots of cross pieces and X's to keep the rails from bowing and twisting.

Would actually be a good idea to just leave the boxing plates tacked in until you get your front and middle crossmembers tacked in as well.

 

that's what we're doing, we just tacked it on and will be welding the frame down to the steel cradle before welding it up solid. That 3/4" square tubing is just there to hold the frame rails at the factory width. I don't want to put to much heat to these rails until everything is in place and it's welded down to prevent any twisting

 

Got the frame all welded up and a new flat cross member installed

 

Parts showed up the other say. Parallel 4 link for the rear, panhard bar, shock mounts, u bolt kit and tranny cross member

 

May I make one suggestion, if you would make the pictures full sized when posting them, instead of thumbnails, it will make your thread easier and more enjoyable for those following it, thank you. subscribed

 

I have been trying to find a triangulated 4 bar for my same build. Can't find one but don't feel right with a parallel 4 link. Did u consider any other rear suspension designs?

 

I bought mine from Paul Hortons Welder Series, they sell a triangulated set up as well

 

getting a visual.
Going to remove the rocker on the passenger side tonight and form a new one. Then move onto the driver sisde and try and get more of the metal work done

 

Well, after a tear of different things getting in the way, we finally got started on this thing again.

 

Subfloor frame in progress

 

Ignore the 20" tires up front, they were rolled in just for a mock up picture