1950 Mercury ReChop

When i owned the car , i got Geoff and Laurie Peterson (Canada Customs and hot rods)to do the bumpers and much more. They are currently doing a rebuild on my 1967 built Meyers Manx buggy.


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Today I started on the rework on the radius'd doors. After I completed the shape of the quarter windows and got the sail panels tacked in, it was obvious that the doors didn't look right. Rik Hoving contacted Ross and myself online about this and after discussion I decided they needed to be changed. Because of the shaved drip rails, there is only the door gap to guide your eye down into the quarter window. Today I got the drivers side underway. Super stoked with how everything flows! Tomorrow should be able to weld and finish this side.

 

More updates today. Finished the drivers side door and roof section. Also got around to chopping the door garnish molding.

 

That new corner looks perfect Trev.

 

Absolutely love seeing a chop done without pie cuts and gobs of MIG welding. That is truly fabulous work.

 

More progress on the merc while I'm on holidays. Got the rear garnish molding tacked together on Saturday.



Today I was able to start the new radius on the passenger side. Got the door cut down and welded up. Then shaped the new roof piece. Tomorrow should get it cut and welded into place.

 

Thanks ken, the new radius looks more natural and flows way better with the car.

Thanks man, pie cuts are alright used in the correct situation for sure. Mig welding has it's place but TIG is far superior for sheetmetal welding.

 

That's a crap load of work. ....... and skill.

 

Passenger side door radius is finished.

 

Progress today. Chopped both the windshield and passenger door garnish moldings. Only one remaining molding to be cut down before the car leaves my shop. It will be heading to the body shop to get smoothed out and primed. Ross will not be painting it this year as we are not sure if this is all the work he wants done yet. For now he will drive it. Once I get the moldings back from the body shop I will start doing the vent windows and opening quarter windows.

 

I really like the way you incorporated the rear window belt line back into the Merc. Very nice work on correcting the doors,quarter glass and roof. Somewhere Sam Barris is smiling !!!

 

Thanks dude. The owner and myself are really stoked on how everything is turning out. I hope this would put a big smile on Sam Barris's face.

 

Last update for a while on the merc. Installed the Appleton spotlights today and wrapped a few loose ends before the car heads to the body shop next week. I still have work to do on the garnish moldings that I will do on my bench.

 

That looks really good.You simply do great work and that's cause you've got both...skills and a good eye.Very nice Mercury coming together there.Be proud.

 

You nailed it there Frenz.Congrats to well done job Trev.

 

Mercury left my house for body and paint Wednesday.

 

Your Merc has the classic look. Great work!

 

Fantastic.It's all there.I hope your friend leaves the car like it is.Paint and detailing,doesn't need more.Maybe some side trim,maybe not.Really,really nice !

 

Looks killer you do some really great work!

 

Thanks

The merc will remain as it is now just painted and detailed. I like the factory grill and head lights on this car. Simple stylish custom.

Thanks a bunch!

 

Nice car. Nice work.
Just don't get what you mean about Mig and sheet metal work with hammering.
I tig and mig and know tig is more well controlled, but mig is good if your good with it right? Is it that with tig it does not over penetrate?
I thought you could hammer mig just as well.
And if you dont mind sayin, how long of a section do you TIG when doing your sheet metal welds? Inch or longer? Or 1/2 inch length welds? I always weld too long of a section i think.

 

You can mig weld sheetmetal, however I will always choose to TIG weld because of a few reasons. MIG welding results in a way harder weld bead that does not like to get hammered without cracking. TIG is the opposite and is a soft, malleable weld that is easy to planish after welding. Also, because a mig weld is harder, when dressing down or grinding the weld, you will put more unnecessary heat into the panel.

Most of my panels I try to achieve zero gap between panels when possible which will minimize the amount of shrinking or movement in the panels when welded. I tack every 1/2 - 1" before welding the panel. How long of a weld depends on how much access I have to the back of the panel to work it after welding. Limited or no access I will weld only inch at a time and move around to keep the panel heat to minimum. If I have access I will weld longer sections and control the panel movement after welding with hammer and dollies.

TIG is superios by far.