If the puke residue is stuck good, the rustoleum topcoat is too. They always look great from the stands zooming around.
sounds to me you laid down a good base if you haven't had any luck shooting the car do you have a maaco shop in town? I know ill get hell from some guys for saying this but are local shop has a owner that has been shooting cars for 20 years you choose the paint and he shoots it. he personally does hot rods lets the other workers do the modern stuff.
I do a bunch of electrical work for body shops in St Louis area, I could get a pro to shoot it for me in a booth. Rather do this one myself. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Painted the wife's 57 chevy 3100 with rusto-paint. 1 gallon of white with a quart of yellow mixed in. Sprayed it with the 9.99 harbor freight gun. Thinner 30-40% with, damn I can't remember, but follow instructions on the can, anyway, I'll post pics later. It turned out pretty well. But it does take a while for the paint to dry enough to do any color sanding or even a coat of wax. Turned out as a 10 footer. Not bad for a work truck.
Rustoleum is a good solution for some builds. If you already have good primer, use good paint. Don't forget, southern polyurethane SPI, they have single stage orange, 2 reds, black, white. All of their other products have great reviews, single stage should be the same http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing Info.htm
Painted the truck with rustolems if your looking for a easy to touch up paint job this is the way to go a can costs about 4.00$ vs the traditional paint jobs thatlly cost 500$ an up to touch up defects Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Why not go to napa and get the commercial coatings they sell , its cheap and it really turns out nice and its way better than the summit paint .
Most of the work in painting a vehicle is in the prep work. If your body work is quality, and you plan to keep the car a while it would be wise to use quality automotive paint. Ago
I sprayed rattlecan rustoleum on the dash of my cliche' '55 Chevy back in 2005. The job was too small to justify borrowing a friend's compressor & gun. By spraying several extra coats, then color-sanding & buffing, I got pretty nice results.
My father did a nice resto on a 1929 hudson with rustoleum. Just don't spill any gas on it when you fill up, or it will peel.
Ran out of time and money so my sedan is rattle canned. I think it came out nice enough so I will be keeping it like this for a while. Have a few extra cans on the shelf for touch up.
BUMP. Going to repaint the blue on my work truck, was going to do it today. Bought some Rustoleum but now wondering if I should run up to Tractor supply and get this implement paint. Rustoleum is supposedly synthetic enamel and this stuff is alkyd enamel, and difference?
i did!! came out ok, didnt do much prep work though, really surprised at the difference it makes to sand a area and not but i was young ;p came out good though .
Well you got to scuff it before you paint it silly. I think the old Rustoleum, the stuff in the little cans was or is oil base, like one shot. It probably isn't compatible with much. This interior is entirely shot with Rustoleum rattle can urethane. its not the same as good old rusrtoleum and took for ever to gas out. Note the chip above the gauge panel. But is was scuff and shoot, no buffing and looks so truckish.
Rolled-on with white foam roller. Thinned with odorless mineral spirits about 60 paint-40 thinner. 6 coats with 24hour dry time between each. Wet-sanded, buffed with wool wheel and rubbing compound, then foam wheel and hand glaze. Still looks pretty good 7 years later. Scratches kinda easy though. Had every piece of chrome off the car when painted. Grille, door handles, trim luggage rack, etc, etc. Did a lot of prep. It was a lot of work and time but saved me a ton of money I didn't and still don't have.
I use it on jeeps and buggies. Thin with acetone and add a little hardener. Can't make it run, and goes on smooth.
Krylon rust tough semi flat black rattle can. Goes on smooth as silk without stripes. Offers some light reflection. Easy touchups. BECAUSE RACE CAR.
Like B Ramsay said---"add hardener". I did the rally stripes on my OT early Camaro and in the AM I had one hell of a bug collection. Long, long time to dry with no hardener.
Shot this last week with Valspar implement paint that Tractor Supply used to carry, bought a bunch of it last year on clearance. Use the hardener and it works great, no hardener and sand paper turns it to goo. I made this blue by adding black to Ford tractor blue.
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