Technical Why Cant I Get This Door Hing Pin Out?

Remove the hinges and throw them away and but new hinges from Speedway.

 

New hinges leave you dealing with all the bolts and rivets

 

I use cobalt aircraft drill bits, a #35 or #42. They will not break. I usually find surplus bits on Ebay. Those original pins are very hard, much stronger than the Chinese pins.

 

I'll try to salvage the original hinges, but if they are just too tweeked after I mess with them..it will be replacement time!!..I looked at some of the hinges at speedway..and yes..affordable for sure...but they throw that lil warning at you..."may need some fabrication"..that , could be a red flag!
Off the subject..but I watched american Graffiti last night...I love that movie!!...that Milner coupe is the shit!!

 

" I aint nobody Dork!"

 

I'll buy your old hinges...


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Never mind, I saw above you were instructed to throw them away. I'll cover shipping...


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This is from another thread.

 

Barett...I haven't taken off the old hinges..if I dont keep them they are yours...but I will probably try to get the pins out and make them work....by the sounds of the post above that Hotrodmyk posted from another thread..these pins are the "Bermuda triangle of model A's!!

 

I had a pair of 4" hinge pin mirrors on my 40 Ford sedan that never gave adequate vision. I bought 5" replacement heads from "rodtique" on ebay. MAN, WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!

 

I'm telling you just like a bunch of other guys. Heat and an air hammer with a hinge pin head in it. Now you really want a MF-n time with a hinge pin? Try a k-5 blazer tailgate hinge from the rust belt.

Your "head ground off the top and flange on the bottom" explanation still has me wondering.

 

The only way that I have had success with these is to heat them cherry red (oxy acetylene) and drive them out from the bottom with a punch and a 2 # hammer. Once they break they come out fairly easily but you need to get them free first.

 

I plan on trying this method 31Vicky when its time to take the doors off for paint...my new ingersol rand compressor just showed up today...so that should help me with making it an easier job....as far as the ground off head thing...I've just gotta get down to the shop and snap a pic of the other hinge pin that looked like the one I drilled out, that way you can see what I'm trying to explain...that pin I drilled out looked nothing like the other pins on the door hinges...I was just there today to receive the compressor, but like a dummy forgot all about that pic!!

 

Flatford...isnt there a concern with warping the hinges with that heat?

 

I don't want to screw myself out of some hinges... But yes, they are the real model a gold, every damn one I've ever worked on needed at least one, my current project almost all. Still hunting a middle door side hinge for a 30-31. Glad you got yours out, soon as I feel up to it, got one more to drill out myself... Appreciate you accepting my gracious offer, if you do so decide I'll gladly take you up on it... However I think you'll find the hinge bolts play a lot more hell than the pins...


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ok..31Vicky has been asking about this door hinge pin I had to get out..I'm posting a pic of the other door hinge that has the same pin configuration...then I'm posting a pic of the other type of hinge pin which is the norm....each door had one of these headless pins with the bottom flange [which could be mushrooming from a hammer]...but the normal pins dont hang past the bottom of the hinge..so not sure how a person could mushroom the pin on the bottom??

 

That almost looks like it was welded?



That looks like a 40 penny nail


Lots can happen in 80 some years.

 

Kroil. Soak it everyday for 3 days minimum. Use the drift that is nearly the same diameter of the pin.

 

I agree something doesn't look right here. That doesn't look like the way it came off of Henry's line. You need to keep digging away at it.

 

Do the hinge bolts look like they have been removed before? The top hinges on my A sedan had the pins in the bottom and I figured out they were flipped side for side. No the doors didnt work to well but it was an easy fix. I would try to get the hinges off and work the pins out in a vice. At least that way you get a better approach at them and dont risk banking up the body...

 

If the pins have ever been out, its been a very long time..they must have 7-9 coats of different color paint built up on them...lol

 

When you are looking at new hinges in whatever catalog you find, make sure they are FORGED hinges. If they are cast hinges, you won't be able to tweak them to fit. And believe me, any hinge that isn't already bolted to your car WILL need to be tweaked to fit. I'd say keep your stock hinges and find a way to replace the pins. You will invest many hours, but way less than you'd spend trying to get repro hinges to fit.

Even if you buy repro hinges, save the stockers. There's a good chance you will go back to them.

 

This is good sound advice and I appreciate it!!..gonna do my best to save those hinges

 

if you are going to paint it soon anyhow, get out the gas axe! a little heat goes a long way in rusted tight old cars.

 

yep..not worried bout the paint..I'll be stripping it down to metal!!...and most likely doing a new top panel as the one that in there now is too flat!!

 

To take off the slotted hinge screws, use a 00 tip on your torch and heat just the head of the slotted screw red hot while trying not to heat the surrounding hinge. let the screw cool and it should come out easily. I've even had some come out by hand after it cooled. the heated screw will expand when heated and shrink after cooling. Only heat up the screw, you do not want to heat up the hinge itself.

 

looks like the center of the pin might have a notch worn in it from use as the rust dust is a sign of wear . see if the door wiggles up and down if it does thats going to be part of the removal problem as your going to have to have someone move it up and down and in and out , while you try to find the sweet spot so the pin will walk out of the notch besides the knurl . and the one does look like its welded on top .

 

Thanks 1946 Caddy...do I let the screws cool on their own, or do I put water on them?

 

I used the penetrating oil(3-4 days)/air chisel on mine. One other suggestion to add where you can't use heat. Tape a few layers of cardboard to the body and push like "H" to keep the chisel pin from wandering.

 

OK...got it RB...thanks!