Projects how to reveal patina under surface rust

Hello Hambers, I have my 54 chevy 3100 and she has some killer patina. I got a new grill for her off craigslist and I want to do the clr bath with the srubby pad to reveal more patina under the surface rust. Does anyone have any experience doing this? What ratio did you run the clr with water? I have seen 40 to 1. And after I do the clr bath (or any other method to this because I have seen goof off used as well) what can I do to preserve it besides clear coat? I am in college and on a budget so what do you all think about eastwood patina preserver? I have heard good things but I would like to see some personal experiences from the best on here. Thanks for reading! and check out the pic of one of my trucks and tell me what you think, here it is.

 

My opinion........ Your truck is beyond patina. Some fading, some paint rub thru, is patina. More rust than paint is time to do something about it. Sorry, that is my thoughts on patina.

 

actually, your paint is the perfect candidate for CLR...all those colors will pop out, and the rust will reveal what's under it. I've had good results mixing 50/50 with warm water. It takes a lot of scrubbing.

 

A HAMBER did that on his Chevy wagon, what a transformation. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...d-gold-108k-original-miles-patina-rod.520460/

 

Patina is not rust.

 

Yes I would try the CLR treatment, your truck has a great look IMO. It took a long time for nature to do that.

 

I don't think there's anything but (pitted) metal under most of that rust.

 

Look at the bottom of this thread. I just did this to my car.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/clr-ans-patina.733740/#post-10700412

BEFORE


AFTER

 

Will the truck sit outside? If not, I would NOT put anything on after the CLR process. Just keep it in a dry environment and it shouldn't get too bad again. If it rusts a little, just CLR it next year. I think patina-ed cars look like fakes if they have a clearcoat on top.

If it needs to sit outside, I think a regular clear paint with a little flattener would be best. Proper prep would be out the window though. Just get it as clean as possible with wax and grease remover and lay the clear on light to start.

 

You said to tell you what we think so.... Do as much as you want with CLR and scotchbrite, then take a few pictures to serve as the before shots.
Then get serious, get out the sandpaper and sanders along with the rest of the body tools and supplies.
Get the body repaired, prepped and get some paint on it.
In the end it will look a lot better.

 

I agree. HRP

 

The truck needs to be painted, but it doesn't have to be this year.
CLR it and have some fun driving it as is. Try Johnsons paste wax for floors, it's heavier than regular auto wax and should last a little longer to lock out the elements. I've did the CLR, paste wax on an old set of machinist cabinets and love how they turned out.

 

I think that truck missed the CLR boat about 20 years ago. time to get friendly with your local sand blaster.

 

I would just leave it alone, until you're ready to start on bodywork.

 

CLR bath at 50/50. Let it dry then wipe it down with GIBBS oil. Perfectly preserved for years of use. Your truck looks cool. If you like how mother nature has finished it for you, roll with it. Finish the drivetrain and interior on point, be happy... But get used to having douchey people ask you "when ya Gunna finish it up". Or tell you how badly they want a rat rod too.


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I can't wait till paint becomes a trend again

 

I think the owner is young and confused as to what is out and out rust and what is weathered paint. Rust is just that rust ,sorry. Clean it up and a super budget paint.

 

I would go with 50/50 like 3WindowLarry said then make my assessment it after the fact.

If I ever wanted to paint the vehicle I would not do anything else to it but periodically clean it and remove any new rust. All automotive finishes require maintenance, some o more then others and you can just chalk that up to maintaining the finish.

 

Thanks for the quick replies everyone. I personally feel there are different levels of patina, I know what a real patina look is and what I have. I just like the look it has and wanted to run with it for a while. So i guess ill go ahead and try out the clr trick this week and see what happens. If I dont like what i see then I guess the sandblasters is my next stop. Sorry if i started a war here LOL

 

At least there is one person! LOL

 

Now that you've started this, you HAVE to post pics of it after the CLR bath!...capish?

 

You didn't start a war. Some things we would argue about even if we agreed.

Sand blasting is really not your best bet, get yourself a DA and some 80 grit and go after it. Only take it to bare metal where you have to. If you are not a painter then get yourself a maaco job and drive it.

 

I would get a water hose, some soapy water and automotive wet/dry 180 sandpaper and go to work wet sanding and rinsing, getting rid of what looks to be spray paint and the heavy scale like rust if the clr doesnt work out for ya.
Test an area to see if you can live with the results first, then proceed.
Ive tried the clr on a severely rusty metal toy and wasnt impressed, It may work ok on some stuff like Blase car but alot of it may have been the scotch brite and alot of elbow grease.

 

CLR and scotchbrite worked out for me, but a 320 wetsand and CLR worked better. I dont plan on clearing it or oiling it, that will just make more work for me when I decide to paint it...

 

Forgot to add a pic

 

I have watched your build thread, your truck is sick my friend. I hope this truck I posted comes out looking similar to that.

 

Ok, I will admit I was wrong once. The owner of this truck has thought out his plan and sound like a good one. I will agree with porknbeaner though that the blaster would be a last resort. Have fun and do it your way but cheap as possible.

 

I like what your doing,maybe steelies and a visor would finish it off,i still can't understand how RUST can form ontop of the paint.Is there that much crap in the air and rainwater?Gaz!

 

Actually the rust did not form on the top of the paint it formed beneath the paint and oozed through and yes we have a lot of air pollution here in the states.

Paint is porous, read that as all paint is porous. I am not a chemist so I don't totally understand what I am going to tell you just that I know it is true. Gloss paint develops a glaze on the top and stays soft and porous underneath when it cures. With time that glaze breaks down exposing the softer more porous paint, if you care for it and keep it sealed the process takes longer. If you have sufficient paint thickness you can buff it with glazing compound and it will develop a surface glaze once again, but if you wait until it becomes oxidized to the point of rust showing through it, then it is usually too late to save it.

make sense?

 

I am trying to save some paint that was neglected way too long with rubbing compound and hope I have very little patina once I am done...