Projects Border Bandits Gas class builds to the Southeast Gassers rules.

Quain, the only things that we're not going to do ourselves is...machine work on the engines and bending the tube for the roll cages.

 

Great job on this! Would never have thought about a Schwinn handle.

 

Thanks Ric, I'm not sold on it yet...the more I look at it, the more it looks like it should be on a tuner.lol

 

Well, I remember Schwinn bikes with sparkly grips & seat covers when they were made in America, back when Nissans were called Datsuns, & there were way more Schwinn Krates , Stingrays, & beach cruisers on main street, than Datsuns.

 

You could carve one out like I did but I do have more than a lunch hour in it.

 

My Hero's that's what hot rodding is all about. if we lived closer you could borrow my bender.

 

.038 overbore, stock stroke 409=416" x 6lbs = 2496 lbs.
.040 overbore 348 W/3.500 stroke 409 crank = 381" x 6lbs = 2288 lbs.
.040 348 W/stock stroke (3.250)=354" x 6 lbs. = 2125 lbs.
I'm doing a .125 over (4.250) set of 348 pistons @ work. Customer says the block will take it, I didn't know you could bore a 348 an 1/8th, I'd surely sonic the bores first!

 

We've done a little tube bending, but sometimes (most of the time for me.lol)you end up scrapping tube, and thats not cheap...one of my Dads old racing buddies had a chassis shop in the 70's-the late 80's and still does some side work when he's not hunting or fishing. He will do the measuring and bends for $5 a bend. Thats way cheaper than a junk stick of tube....unless you own a chassis shop, and you know what your doing...like that Stott guy from NC.D

 

LOL I'm not sure I know what I'm doing I've scraped a lot of tubing myself.

 

I just say well it looks like another door bar.

 

Got some work done today! Turned out pretty well, only autographed it a couple times lol (runs) ! Try to get the axle painted tomorrow ?

 

That's lookin just like something out of the pages of Super Stock and Drag Illustrated right around 1964-65!

Nice job!

Scott


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You guys are killing me! I gotta look at something an hour, just to decide what to do to it!

 

Shit Ric you put some suckers on the the F#*kin trailer with that man.

 

Quain, Ric, or anyone with legal chassis building thoughts. I need some help on what to hook my roll cage to...old Chevrolets have the body hooked(nailed) to a wood subrail. I made 2"X4" .125 wall tube ones(when I built it two years ago),and yes Ric it's mild steel. These are bolted to the frame with 6 1/2" bolts. Can I hook my cage to that, or does it have to go through the sub rail to the frame? I can add more mounting tabs to the frame if needed.

 

The rule is 2x3 x 0.83 (I use 1.25 in most cases) so your fine with 2x4 x 1.25, but I'm not sure I understand how you have it attached that could be a problem. Post or send me a pic to help me understand better.

 

The 2"X4" tube replaced the wood that was originally holding the body to the frame. Chevy had the body stovebolted and nailed to the original. My body is welded to the tube now (you can see it it the pic with the body stood up) this is all bolted to the frame with three 1/2" bolts per side. I was wondering if I had to mount the cage the frame or if I could mount it to the subframe. The way it sits the subframe is in the way of getting the roll cage down to the frame.

 

If you want to retain the body mounts you have, looking at the body on/driving compartment pic, I'd say weld a series of triangle gussets connecting the inside of the body bars to the top of the frame (permanently attaching), and several each side under the car, especially where the main hoops will attach to the body bars. If you have a crash, and the body bars aren't welded to the frame, then the whole body could come off when the bolts shear, while your strapped in the seat. You have to make the body mount bars a permanent part of the frame (if attaching the cage to it). It looks like if you attached the cage to the permanently welded body bars, you could still unbolt the body at the original tabs to remove it if necessary in the future. Before you do all that, you could also replace all the .125 wall mild steal mounting bars etc. with new chromoly too.

 

If I welded and lightened the existing subframe to the frame...would that be a legal mod?

 

Nevermind...I will do it the right way and mount it to the frame...I'll just regret doing it the other way.

 

If you lightened it conservatively (hole's etc.) it'd be ok, but holes might take out 3-5 lbs. and I'd rather have the strength at that point.

 

Can you weld some outriggers on the frame to mount the cage then just modify your sub frame around those points.

 

At the back I can see the frame, because the subrail is wider than the frame at the back...it sits on brackets that are factory riveted and I welded them too. The front will have to be modified, because the subrail sits right on the frame, and an outrigger to move the cage would make the already small cabin smaller.

 

If you use your existing mounting system, and add some welded gussets underneath, to the outside of the frame with flat plates to mount/support the sub frame, at the roll cage mounting points, that may work. If you tried to tech at an official NHRA type event, they may not be too keen on the cage being welded to something that is bolted to the frame.

 

Yeah, I'm just going to make the cage weld to the frame the way the NHRA would approve of, and notch the existing subframe to clear it...I was only going to do this, so I didn't have to lift the body up to weld the cage in the front. Like most things the hard way is the right way.

Thanks fellas.

 

So can you shorten the sub rail in the front so the cage can be welded to the frame at that point.

 

More cutting and grinding...yippie.lol

 

That's a nice,pre-wallowing-in-his-own-piss-and drool as he scarfs down a cheeseburger in a drunken frenzy photo...


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Plus,he's HUGE in Europe.

Jus sayin.....

Scott


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