Hot Rods 32 Roadster Body - a new approach. AKA Beetledeuce

Coming from Jim you couldn't ask for a better compliment! HRP

 

Wow..... like the others, I am truly impressed with this build and look forward to updates.

 

Hi Tyresmoke,
I'm glad you like the build so far.

Contrary to what you might think, I don't have a lot of experience in working metal. Like most of us, I've been in to old cars and Hot Rods for years, but apart from welding patch panels to rusty floors for MOT's, I've never done any extensive bodywork.

I see guys on the HAMB with amazing skills; beating, shrinking, stretching, and forming the most beautiful panels from scratch. I don't have those skills (or tools!). Maybe what I do have is the ability to visualise what might be possible with a bunch of existing curves and shapes.
In a way this is the whole point of this build, I wanted it to be something within the scope of anyone with a welder, grinder and some enthusiasm.

As regards the mouldings, I use a pewter with a very high tin content, 90% or higher, but recently I have moved to using a lead-free alloy which is almost entirely tin.

 

The next area to tackle was the rear corners of the cockpit. I wanted to get a nice curved shape here to keep the lines flowing around the car.
I used scraps of steel I had laying around including some curves from an old motorcycle tank!
I figured that this might be a piece I'd make a casting of later.

 

I fixed these pieces temporarily to the rear quarters to see how things were looking.

 

I stood the quarters together, just to see what they look like.
Hey, this just might work!!!

 

Big thumb's up, Gent. I'll bet that 90%+ tin alloy is rather pricey.
(I'm basing this on what solder costs here nowadays.)

 

About £25 per kilo, so that's about $35 ?

 

So how many inches of bead or mm per Kilo can you make/ does it take?

I gotta tell you gent, when I see this tread get bumped , I am excited like a little kid to see what's next . Thanks

 

I love the approach-visualize how shapes you HAVE can be incorporated to create shapes you WANT.That is an amazing combination of art ,engineering , and an acute sense for the visual balance of shape and form in a three dimensional configuration. In other words, it is totally freaking COOL! Can't wait for the next installment. Thanks.

 

Cant wait to see what the rad grille will be made from.

 

Wow, I saw this thread when it started and forgot about it, Amazing work, I will be following it now with interest.

 

Huh! You fellows are still using Pounds? I thought you'd be on Euros by now.
(I remember the fuss over decimal pence. )

 

Great thing about this thread, is you're getting it done! no waiting months on end for updates. Getting to see constant progress is exciting. Wish i had that kind of time/skill/equipment!

 

Thanks Mike, I really appreciate your comments. I'm flattered.

 

Thanks Jim, that means a lot.

 

It is great to watch this thing evolve from near-lunatic dream on page one to something that is happening and happening well here on page 11. And it is a shock to see that page 1 was only a few days ago!

 

No waiting months ?
Man I tried to get mine finished in 60 mins minus commercials but then reality smacked the the reality show. You know, just like how video killed the radio star.

 

Awww buggles!

 

I'm waiting on the part where you decide the finished body is too heavy and make a mold and turn it into carbon fiber with little helium bubbles so it has to be tethered because it's lighter than air and tries to float away. Nice work, so far, by the way. Funny to me, though, is the pewter. I always thought it was reserved for making steins to hold beer?

 

Hey, EG;
I've got a couple of Q's on the bodywork. In the pics of panel-joining, it appears that you tack-weld (what, maybe 1/2" or 1/4" apart?) the panels together, & then lead over the partially welded joint. I assume you've done this a lot before, what I'm wondering is: what issues (if any) do you have (or have had/noticed) w/seam-cracking under the lead, or rust appearing later. Reason I ask is, it seems the holy grail of metalwork is hammerwelding w/o filler. & no, I can't do it, not even close. I'd be lucky to get somewhere near what you are doing on beetledeuce. I've enough projects needing major work that this might be acceptable to me, as it should have less warping. Also, are you using std-type body-lead (body solder), or the pewter? I'd think that the pewter would be way too hard & unflexible, but haven't used it much, & never in place of leading (which is very hard for me). I get that you're using the pewter for the molding lines & soldering them to the body - I think? Also, I've been looking at the panel pics, & haven't found a decent close-up of the backside of the leaded seam(s). Would you mind posting a pic or two of them - if it wouldn't be embarrassing? Hopefully, I'm not asking too much, nor stepping on toes. I'm not trying to be rude, but really would like to see, if it's ok. I like the way this is turning out.
TIA.
Marcus...

 

Been gone a few days and WOW this stuff is Magic!
Love to see ths kind of metal fab!
EG keep it up.
You are inspiring the masses!

 

I did a few quick measurements and calculations. The beads can vary in size from about 150 grams per foot to 300 grams per foot.

Glad to see I've still got your interest, !!!

 

Although it may seem a little different at first, actually, using various shapes as castings on car bodies isn't that unusual. This is the front of the fender on my 1964 Mercury Comet. It's an alloy casting which bolts to the front of the fender to give it the right shape. Ok, it's not pewter, but I use pewter because it's relatively easy to work with.

 

Are you kidding ?
My knick name for you is "Sofa king"
This English gent is sofa king imaginative
The English dude is Sofa king artistic
The English fella is Sofa king innovative
Yep sofa king

 

Hi Marcus,
My photos may have misled you a little. What I tend to do is tack-weld the panels in position then photograph them as I think it gives a clearer picture of what I'm doing. I then carry on welding along the length of the seam as is considered the best practice. I then use lead over the joint, just as one would use bondo. The reason I used lead was that I wanted to keep the car in bare metal if possible (although in this damp climate here, that may be hard to maintain).
I'm hoping the lead will give a little added strength but I'm not relying on that.
You are right, I'm using traditional body solder over the welds as I know this is the right mixture of metals for the job it's intended for.
And yes, I solder the pewter beads to the steel body.
I've attached a couple of photos to demonstrate, as requested.
I'm sure my welds are far from perfect, but I'm satisfied I'm getting reasonable penetration for a strong joint.

 

Ha ha...it took me a few minutes before I got it.......I thought you saw me just sitting on the Sofa with my feet up