Starting to pull this motor apart. Got the lifter out from the cam lobe is question. The bottom is pretty galled up compared to other ones. Ran 2 compression tests one "dry" and one with a few squirts of oil in the cylinders. The readings were, 125 went to 155....90 went to 100....135 went to 150....130 went to 135.....135 went to 150....145 went to 150....and 80 went to 90. I don't know what that 80 to 90 is all about. Does this motor need rings? 2 more question here please. How does that round thing (I don't know what to call it) come off the front of the crank. I took the fan belt pully of it but can't see any lock nut or anything holding it on. It's the part that has the timing mark on it. And do I have to drop the pan to get the timing chain cover off. Are the two bottom bolts in through inside the pan like the old chevy 6 engines Thanks, Guys and the car has new brakes now,new shoes, new drums. It really needed new drums.
Harmonic balancer is the item on the front of the crank.. those typically need a puller (3-bolt type) to remove.
The front balancer is a pressed on fit. Needs a puller as stated above. If your cam is bad on you corresponding 80-90 cylinder that may be you problem or you may have a bad valve in the heads. As for as needing rings I'd at least pull the heads. Do you know the resent history of the engine? Have you owned it for awhile and started running poorly or ?.
Don't know the engines history. The 80 to 90 cylinder is not the cylinder that has a bad cam lobe. That cylinder has one of the higher readings. Off to the auto parts to rent a puller for the harmonic balancer. Do I need to drop the pan to get at the bottom timing cover bolts?
A 283 does not have a harmonic balancer they have a hub to mount the crank pulley. All 283's are internally balanced. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You will need to drop the pan to remove the timing cover. The oil pan seals to it in the front. Best of luck. A manual would be a great idea too, as stated above.
Your bad cam lobes are not opening the valves all the way, that is why you have more compression in that hole Like they say get a book, will really help you out
If you have cylinders under 120 lbs compression you have a worn or damaged engine. You can follow the firing order and put each cylinder on its power stroke(a chevy sb is 18436572) to do a leak down test. I use a compression testing adapter, with the Schroeder removed and pump shop air into the cylinders. If it leaks thru an intake or exhaust port, bad valve or seat. Thru the dipstick tube, or PVC hole, rings. Generally its a lot of work to redo heads on a high mileage engine and end up with a tired oil burning, but good running version. So if the mileage is high its best to do a rebuild...IMO. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Take $1600 and go buy a 350 crate engine. It's brand new with twice the torque. You can't rebuild that 283 properly for less than $1600. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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