Thanks! I was planning on using rubber grommets where all the lines go thru the trunk floor. I thought it'd be a good idea to run a line for the dump valves under the car as well. Any suggestions on what I should secure the lines with? Thanks man, they are all 1/2" AVS valves
I used -P- clips to hold the 3/8" lines. also used grommets though the trunk floor. my dump is straight off of the valve block in the trunk. has a sintered filter on it.
This weekend I ran all of the lines except the two for the front bags. I used rubber grommets thru the trunk floor and I picked up some 1/2" adel clamps to secure the lines to the frame. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm really happy with the way the setup turned out All set up to do some DIY powder coating. It's very easy just extremely time consuming. Prep work is the most important part. preheating and curing is the boring part. Takes roughly an hour to do a part. But I've gotten pretty decent at it. The fatman fab dropped uprights are first All done Next is the air pressure gauge mount from the kit and license plate bracket I got from LONG. These are coated in the "reflective chrome" from Eastwood. Not anything close to chrome, more like brushed aluminum, but still turned out nice. Bare metal Finished
Our trunk is full when we joyride ol' jetback in weekends,comparing to yours,think i need roofrack to mount an air ride system too or vice vers-he he... You are a handy man getting into this powdercoating thing! Going to be hell of a ride for sure! 5 stars to ya. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
And that's how ya move a 4300lb car with no wheels! Air ride is wired and running good with no leaks! I still need to put the front suspension back together and build bag mounts for the front to finish. Also, it has been awhile since I started the car so I fired her up and within a couple seconds it made this terrible grinding noise like the starter was still cranking. I checked the solenoid and bypassed the vacuum switch with a push button start and still did it. I replaced the speedo cable which was twisted off at the trans and noticed when I start the car in neutral the grinding doesnt happen but the speedo fluctuates between 0 and 10mph with the rpms like its in gear?? Any ideas?
I needed a little pick me up so I mounted the rear wheels to see how shes gonna look.... Fluid was a bit low but even when I topped it off, still the same thing just took a bit longer before I heard the noise.
Thanks man I think it's gonna look great. Are you planning on bagging your '49? That's a cool idea! If I could move them out a little farther towards the edge of the bumper I bet it could work. I was actually thinking about welding up some lake pipes
I'd bet a competent muffler shop could do it right where they are and you wouldn't have to move or eliminate the guard between the bumperettes. Even if they had to use flexible pipe you wouldn't see it behind the bumper. My lake pipes are functional and I rarely uncap them. It's annoying to hear the left side in my ear to me. People say it sounds cool though goin down the street to them.
Well explained... L8 straightpypes sound is like earcandy! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
with the 7" bags, what is your ride height extended and fully compressed. I'm wanting to bag my 53 super and looking for help as I'm used to jacking my rides....former jeep owner.
I have a 55 Super that I plan to start on after new years that I plan to bag also. I don't know how similar they are but I'm learning a lot. I'm also a Jeep guy...
I started on the front bag mounts only to find out the SS 7 bags are too big. I would have to cut way too much out of the front spring cup and that might jeopardize the integrity of the whole front crossmember. Also the lower a arm would need lot of modification. I called up slam specialties and they said send em back and they exchanged them for the SS 6 bags which shouldn't need near as much cutting to fit. I'm also lookin at a front disc brake conversion since the stock front brakes are in pretty bad shape. There is light at the end of the tunnel and after the front bags and brakes she's going out for a cruise. When I get her on the ground I'll get some measurements for you and some pics cool man, I'm glad my thread is helpin you out.
Check out this simple kit from Scarebird Classic Brakes https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=57 Pretty easy swap all things considered and I've seen the Riviera brackets. Professional form fit and finish in my opinion Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks for the link. I'd have to scource parts but I bet that kit would end up being a lot cheaper than the one I was looking at on eBay. I was also looking at this master cylinder
I don't have a gauge for front/ rear yet. just tank. but I think it'll take about 70psi in the tank before raising the front. I can look into it tonight.
I managed to finish the front air bag mounts and plated the lower control arms. The single bolt from the shock which previously held the coil spring mount was centered and welded to the top plate of my air bag top hat. The Slam specialties ss 6 bags are centered almost perfectly in the upper spring pocket and The whole assembly screws in with that single bolt. With the smaller ss 6 bags I was able to build the top hats long enough to allow the airbag to compress slightly into the spring pocket with no clearance issues. I didn't have to cut any part of the frame so it worked out perfectly! All that's left now is to run the front air lines (which I'll have to cut holes in the spring pocket for), heat and bend the steering arms for the drop spindles, and install the front brakes. We are getting really close to seeing it laid out! Here's the upper bag mount. It measures 4" top plate to bottom plate. At full compression there was 7 1/4" from bottom spring plate to top spring plate. Allowing 1/8" for plate on lower control arm and 3" for the compressed bag I should still have about 1/8" From the bags riding on their internal bump stops when it's laid out. I made a template for the plate on the lower control arms, cut it out, and fit it into the a arm. Flipped it over and found the center of the spring mount and punched a hole for the center bolt on the bottom of the bag. I marked where the bolt holes lined up on the bag and the bags were screwed in all the way. The lower control arm was bolted up and the bag was bolted to the plate to mark the lines on the bag to the plate. Lots of measuring and head scratching later I ended up with this.
In case anyone was wondering how I ran the air lines for the gauges and power wire for the compressors....
U'r doing a good & safety job P D L...... I'm not into that bag thing because starting to be an ol' fart but i want to see your BigOldBuick lay down on your shopfloor! Thx for sharing & keep up the good work Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
@PraiseDLowrd, I have a technical question about your Fatman dropped uprights. Do they have a bend in them similar to the stock Buick ones? I couldn't quite tell if they did or if it was just an optical illusion in the photo. I was just curious because I'm planning on making some for my Buick. Thanks for sharing your build up in detail with us! It looks like it is coming together nicely!
Yessir they do have a slight curve to them like the factory uprights. You can really tell in this pic
The Jalopy Journal
