Technical Shell Rotella

I know this has been covered about 2 million times on this and about 20 other sites but it's never enough. I've been buying Valvoline vr1 10/30 for my 235 since I did it's first oil change (before I ever brought it home). My rear main is leaking (I'm changing it when I do the t5 swap this winter) about a quart a week and at a little more than $6 a quart, it's getting expensive. I've been researching different oils for literally 4 months trying to find a less expensive oil that will work. I know there's a huge debate on if the 235 needs any extra zinc or not since it has super low valve spring/lifter pressure but why take a chance if you dont have to. Anyway, I e-mailed Shell less than 10 minutes ago about their Rotella oils and how much zddp they contained. The representative responded pretty much instantly and stated (have no idea how to post the actual e-mail response) that all of their multi-grade oils contain 1200 ppm and all of their straight weight oils contain 800 ppm. 1200 ppm is pretty much dead on what is recommended for older motors with flat tappets and at something like $15 a gallon (Walmart) its about $20 cheaper to buy. Just thought everyone would like to know. Later

 

Just bought a gallon of Rotella T this week at WalMart on sale for $12 and change. I don't think you're gonna find anything much cheaper than that.
I'm not sure what you and the Shell guy talked about, but as far as I know you want Rotella T Triple protection.

 

Yeah thats probably what I'll use too. I'd prefer 10w30 but I'll try it and see how it goes since i dont want to use synthetic. The guy at shell said all of the multi-grade oils had 1200 ppm. He did list a 10w30 but I'm pretty sure its synthetic.

 

Interesting info.

 

Yeah, I thought so too. I kept reading that shell dropped the levels in all their oils so it was no good. Guess it's always better to find out straight from the source than to take "peoples" word for it huh. If I'm leaking a quart a week I'd rather it be a $3 quart than a $6 quart...know what I mean

 

Look on the bright side... With it leaking so much, there's no need to do an oil change.

 

I use Rotella and have for many years in all my flat-tappet engines. It was designed for use in diesel trucks and contains lots of ZDDP to protect components like camshafts and lifters. There are those who will argue that higher levels of ZDDP are unnecessary, but it was a normal component in most all motor oils until recently when it was removed by government edict. The way I look at it, if higher levels of ZDDP were thought necessary when flat tappet engines were new, it's a pretty good bet that it's still necessary now.

 

droadster, post: 10625116, member: 15649"]Look on the bright side... With it leaking so much, there's no need to do an oil change. [/QUOTE]
Haha yeah you're right...maybe I should just leave it as is

 

On this topic, does STP have any ZDDP in it?

 

[QUOTE="missysdad1, I use Rotella and have for many years in all my flat-tappet engines. It was designed for use in diesel trucks and contains lots of ZDDP to protect components like camshafts and lifters. There are those who will argue that higher levels of ZDDP are unnecessary, but it was a normal component in most all motor oils until recently when it was removed by government edict. The way I look at it, if higher levels of ZDDP were thought necessary when flat tappet engines were new, it's a pretty good bet that it's still necessary now.[/QUOTE]
Which one do you use?

 

I've read that it does but have zddp in it but not to use it for multiple other reasons, none of which I can think of off the top of my head. Then again, thats all hear say so it may not have any and it may make your motor run for a million miles....haha

 

The little blue bottle says that it does on the label.

 

Very cool, Thanks 19Fordy.

 

I have used Shell Rotella in my 235 for many years in SAE 30 straight grade, 15W-40 and recently 10W-30 when it became available locally.

15W-40 has about 1100 ppm zinc according to the Petroleum institute.....
http://www.pqiamerica.com/May 2013/rotella.htm

For the 235 we only need around 800 ppm which is how oil was formulated in the 1950s.
1200 ppm was used in oil of the 1970s for the muscle cars with higher pressure valve springs and higher lift cams.
- Don't use more than 1200 ppm as wear increases and at much more ppm it will harm the iron of the camshaft.

Diesel motor oil has on average 50% more detergents and 100% more dispersants.
Rotella has less and is good for older gasoline engines with more piston blow-by and an oil filter.

 

Since Road Runner brought it up this was available on the same sight: http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/consolidated highmileage2014.html I recently switched to the Quaker Defy it seems to stay cleaner and an annoying driveway drip has quit,guess I'll stay with it.

 

Is the 10w30 you use synthetic or regular? I'd prefer regular over synthetic if possible but if synthetic is ok I'll use it

 

I never used synthetic lubes on my engine, transmission and rear.
I also never used high mileage oils.

Although one could argue that today's mineral/regular oils are rather synthetic anyways....
Pro sales folks talk about 'mineral or synthetic ... base oils'
What gives ?

 

Someone is lying, it's just a matter of who. It's accepted that the SM & SN has no zinc. Reportedly the new CJ oil has no zinc. Here we have Shell saying it does. I've seen oil marked SM/CJ, if diesel has zinc then CJ isn't emissions compatible with SM. Something is wrong with this picture.

 

I use Rotella T 15/40 in all my classics. Been doing it for a decade with no ill effects. All 3 are small blocks with flat tappet performance cams and I haven't flattened a single lobe.

 

Read here: www.ZDDPlus.com As Roadrunner said above; diesel oils are formulated for diesel engines. ZDDPlus is sold here, last Alliance Vendor listed. Buy off the shelf oil and add ZDDPlus. Support the HAMB Vendors.

 

Which one do you use?[/QUOTE]

Rotella T, 15w - 40. I use 4 1/2 quarts at oil change plus 1 pt. STP, leaving me a half quart for top-offs if needed. I use conventional Fram oil filters and have properly operating PCV systems, change the oil and filter every 5000 miles or sooner - usually sooner. Engines stay sparkling clean inside and I have yet to have any lubrication-related failure or unusual wear issues.

 

Rotella T 15w-40 meets both the API CJ-4 and SM specifications. It can therefore be used in Gasoline as well as diesel engines. In other words, Shell could remove the CJ-4 rating, repackage it as a gasoline auto only oil and sell it by the quart and we wouldn't be having this discussion.

It is a gasoline engine safe and formulated motor oil. Anything else is not accurate.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm

http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/tpl-pro.html

 

I'm in Alberta Canada and used to use Rotella T for years. The formulation is now rated for Diesel engines only , not gas. Didn't want to take a chance so I switched oil

 

. I use conventional Fram oil filters .[/QUOTE] Their rep has suffered in recent years, I use wix.

 

The reason it's not rated for gas is because it's not good for MODERN engines and emission controls, NOT because it's unfit for old engines. That's why zinc is being eliminated in the first place.

 

Rotella for me, now!

 

If my old owners manual called for SAE 20, what viscosity rotella should i get?

 

I run a 292 chevy 6 in an altered for drag racing . rotella is the only oil sold in calif. with any worthwile amount of zinc according to my machinist. I have over 5 grand in the motor and would like to make it last as long as possible. all I can say is when I change the oil it comes out looking just as good as new

 

When multi-grade oils became available, Chevy manuals listed SAE 20 or 10W-30 to be used.

 

Hah, so pretty much anything on the shelf'll do!