Stewart's speed shop Ed "axle " Stewart .. I believe they jobbed the chore to a local black smith... But guys used to go down to "dago" stop by Stewart's and pick up a dropped axle ... It's pretty common to see those " ugly" axles down here usually see a few at every big 3 swap
I love smooth nicely dropped original axles but lately I've had a thing for some of the real primal hammer dropped axles. Something about that rugged look that I love.
Ed Stuart =Dago Axle these axles were heated in a forge both eyes (king pin and spring perch) were cooled but the section between was left at a yellow heat .The axle was placed upside down in a jig that had a pin that fit the perch bolt hole the heated section stuck out beyond the fixture a long handle set tool with a king pin on it was placed into the king pin hole this had a thick pad on top for a striking surface. This set tool was then struck as needed with a sledge hammer until the desired drop was reached. Using the set tool as a pry bar the king pin boss could be adjusted as needed. That's the mechanics of how it was done. Now I don't know what magazine I had the "How to drop your own axle" in but it was from back in the 50s and it was done at Ed Stuarts shop. Part of his "Axle drop" service was he would also tighten worn king pin holes. This was done by heating the end of the axle and then hammerring all around the outside of the king pin boss to 'shrink " the pin hole it was then reamed to standard size after the axle cooled. There were many places in that article that said "by eye" or "experience tells him" referring to how far or to what angle this bending ,shrinking went. I have seen it done also replacing the hand sledge work with a mechanical drop hammer like a Little Giant. The move to using a press was a major improvement! As a blacksmith I'll take the more modern pressed drops over the hammered drops any day. the filled axle end were to hide the odd stretch that hammering produced by filling the webs in the stretched area the axle could be ground to a more even looking stretch. Drilling axles started out in circle track racing and it wasn't to lighten the axle but to give it more flex. I had more than a few old time racers tell me that in the early 60s.
Wow, that would be an interesting article, anyone know which magazine it was in, or possibly have of a scan of that could be posted.
Ive studied my dago axles and dont think what ive found really jives with that, there are marks on the axles where the bends are, my hypothesis on how it was done is that it was heated up, then hammered on a power hammer to stretch it out then it was it was stuck in a bending form and bent, then the flipped and the second bend was done if that makes sense, the way your saying sounds more like a way an early more drop could be done, the dagos to me are hammer stretched and dagos are taffy stretched. I really wish someone that seen it in person could speak up if theres anyone left. And im also not saying your wrong.
I sold my really nice dropped '32 heavy that I bought from 296 v8 during one of my "do I really need all this shit" phases, but then was offered another axle and parts that I had made an offer on a few months previously, so kind of had to get it I don't know who dropped it or when, but it came into this country under a '33-'34 pickup (from Az I think) that had been "updated" in the '70s or '80s judging by the style. It had welded tabs for tube shocks, and the two pairs of holes are for the steering rack that was fitted (and not working too well - I think that was the main prompt for its removal). The drop is pretty nice, and it was mounted with some fabricated split wishbones/radius rods that used part of the original 'bones. The other axle is a stock '32-'36 axle for comparison
Yeah, I sort of like them as they remind me of some I fabbed for a Model A pickup a few years ago, but not sure if they are a little too "modern" for a traditional '40s rod.
Some like them in factory finish with parting marks and texture, but a polished and eventualy chromed one is good looking too...before and after.
I have a 32 axle that was dropped long ago, I got it from a guy who parted out his deuce coupe in the mid 70's., and the car had been built long before he got it. What do I look at to see if it is a 32 heavy or 32-37 axle? I have had this axle for almost 40 years, through 2 ex-wives and probably will never use it- any ideas on it's currant worth? Maybe I could work out something with Sid to swap for a dropped axle for my 50 Chevy PU. or swap with a H.A.M.B. who would use it where it belongs. Jim
Are the bosses where the wishbone attaches "innies" or "outies"? If in it is a '32 axle. If out it's probably a '33-36. Must be a 2" tall boss for the years '32 through '36.
I've got a pair of So Cal s.s super deep drops just like these.. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Damn Jimmy! We've talked about our little "generation" of 'tweeners a time or two over the years, but I have never heard it explained better than you did in this 7 year old post.
I didn't realize my favorite H.A.M.B. has been here now seven years. I have referred to it so many times over the years. Thanks Neil!
I like that look with the ends filled, and they're not super flawless either. Here's mine, shooting for the same effect.
I have a heavy Dropprd 32 axle done by a bloke in Maldon, he is a master due to rego rules here I am using bolt on arms with a stock 32 wishbone and Girling shocks Looks cleaner to me. Roger
Hey Neal, I also really dislike the aftermarket shock mount that mounts on the bottom of axle and perch. Although according to Dick Smith, he made maybe the first set of those over 50 years ago for his 32 roadster that sits in the Ford museum. I have welded a "bolt" directly to the axle to mount a shock, but is there a better or correct way to do that? I'm about to do that again and would like your opinion. Thanks
Take a small piece of tube, thread it 1/2-20, and TIG it to the front of the axle. You can use an off the shelf shock mount from the auto parts. That way, if one gets messed up, just unscrew it and replace. Done. Heres a pic of Bib Overalls axle from another thread. He used a bolt instead of a shock mount but the threaded tube is the same.
Yeah sorry, but at least the bung helps keep a nice axle looking good. Unlike the bolt on steering arms. Ok, I'm done now. Sorry again.
NealinCA; Just curious. What is the purpose of that piece of metal resting on the rear center section and wishbone?
I bought this dropped axle about 30 years ago from a now defunct speed shop but have never been able to find out who dropped it. There is some distortion in the bent sections, but it is straight and has been under this car for the past 26 or so years. It was used when I got it, so God only knows what it was under before that. Maybe someone can ID it ? Don
How you mount the shocks on the front has EVERYTHING to do with the aesthetics of the axle. Very much on-topic.
You must be referring to the torque arm, added because of the open drive conversion. More details here... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/32-rpu-build-thread-the-10-year-plan.642590/#post-7128615 Now, back to dropped axles.
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