Ron, we were wondering when you would notice the body was a 34. If I remember correctly you used to do a little mix and match on some of the ones you built. As you know I was really born a Chevy guy, but I can spot a nice Mopar. Hell I even started building one once (your Big Red Kingcab body) and you traded me for a 37 Chevy Coupe. Looking back I really don't see many of my builds exactly as they originally were. I prefer seeing them as my own vision. Ricks got a good vision (and a sense of his budget) going on this one. I am glad to be helping with the creativity.
Eva's car was a 34 sedan with 33 front fenders and nose. my brothers 32 ply sedan used a 33 nose as well just a little mix and match to make the car just the way you like you know whats funny I recently sold a 33 coupe to a guy out here and he found and bought all the fenders, hood(from someone here on the HAMB) and grill shell for a 34 ply to do his coupe... Ron.....
OK Rick and Ray, got any new progress pictures of the car??? in a few months I am going to start building the 33 coupe we have(it is RJ's but I get to do it for me and leave it to him) mine is going on 32 ford frame rails with a chrome front axle, it will be fenderless. 440 6 pack and narrowed 8 3/4 rear end with 18' wide Pro Trac tires with salt flat wheels.. Ron...
I am a new member and I have just viewed your build and I must say you guys are impressive! I have just acquired a 33 Plymouth 5W Coupe in parts and pieces. I hope to build mine like Moparron426, fender less but with a little extra inner rear wheel well work. Is there somewhere in can get body mount hole dimension info? I do not have a floor or braces. I will need to fab a frame and would like to do my homework before I start. Again Great Build, Steve
Time is sometimes limited but we have been making progress. I have been trying to get some stuff done on my 66 Wagon 2door conversion project and the other E-Bay barn projects we have. On the 33 we finally selected the correct amount of leafs for the rear springs. Did not like the sloppy spring pad setup that was in the car. Greg Schoene designed and made Rick a new pair and helped reset the correct pinion angle. Rearend is in for hopefully the last time. Rick also modified the gas tank brackets and we installed the tank again hopefully for the last time. We like the way the car sits. With added weight when it is completed we expect it to drop a little more. We got the angle pieces for the hood and started fitting everything in place. The plan is to have a one piece top similar to what he did in his 29. Some modification on the grille shell needs to be done first. Nice to hear you are building another car. Keep us posted on the progress. Rick has a new 33 fiberglass hood and trunk deck available if you or anyone else is interested.
Sorry for the delay,we got busy and I forgot to check for you.Let me know if you still need any measurements,because besides my own car a second 33 coupe was just brought in the shop.Between the 2 I'm sure we can find any measurement you need....Rick
Hi Rick I am interested in the body mounting holes within the interior. My coupe body does not have a floor from the cowl back to the very rear. It has a strip of remaining floor metal on each side with two holes on each side. I have seen as I am researching that there is a support across the back two holes. The measurements I need are across these two sets of holes to see if there is any spreading and also are there any mounting areas on the underside of the lower back part of the body. Thank you for all your help, Steve
Our project also had no floor so the mounting holes in the original frame became our best guide for setting our mounting points. I was at the barn today and took a couple of quick measurements inside an original 33 Plymouth Coupe we picked up last week. I drew a diagram of what I found. When I checked them against our 33 build, I found we did locate our mounts with the same dimensions. Hope this helps answer some of your questions. If Rick and I get a chance on Sunday we can get the original 33 on the lift and check the underside.
Rick and I put the other 33 on the lift and got you some more information from this original body and frame. The diagram is rough but gives you an idea of where the mounting locations are. We found 7 mounting points on each side. 3 are on brackets outside the frame rails. The other 4 go thru the center of the frame rails. I have marked the distance apart except for the last one in the rear where I could not get a good measurement. This one is mounted where the frame and floor pan kick back down toward the rear of the car. The outside measurement of the frame rails from front to rear are as follows: 32 3/4" across the front of frame 28 1/2" at center of front wheels 32 1/2" at cowl 37 3/8" at B-pillar 41" at center of rear wheels 44 1/4" across the back of frame Being that your car still has a top, hopefully you will not have as much side to side flex with the body as we initially found with ours. We had one mounting hole and part of another visible near the B-pillar. Once we determined the width across from the existing frame mounts, we did bend up a floor brace to go across in that area. We duplicated this method across 3 mounting points inside the passenger part of the body. For the rear section We built a square stock tubular frame that centered on the frame rails. It is attached to the body and is drilled at the mounting points in the frame. Once in place we were able to attached our floor to this frame work as well. Our framework combined with the body cross braces between the passenger and trunk areas of the car made a big difference in the support and rigidity of our body. Again I hope our information is helpful for your build.
Thank you so much. I can't tell you how great you guys are for taking the time to do this for me. I hope I can return the favor someday. I should be able to get started with the dimensions you have provided. Thank you very much, Steve Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
In the last couple of weeks I have acquired front and rear steel fenders...so I now have quite a pile of new fiberglass parts. There are front and rear fenders,hood top,rumble seat lid,front fender braces.If anyone is interested you can email me at [email protected]. Some buddies are going to the upcoming Carlise swap meet and could bring the parts with them if need be.
Probably not until next summer...got lots left to do with limited time and I already have a ride driving the crap out of my 29 Dodge sedan..but the more that gets done the more anxious I am to get it finished.
We are still banging away getting the steel fenders back is shape and they are looking very nice. Well worth the effort. We also started fitting the side aprons and the steel running boards. Last week I found a way to replace the fiberglass rear roll pan. We had a 70 ElCamino quarter panel and I noticed the body curve was similar to the Plymouth roll pan. Using the fiberglass part as a template I was able to copy the shape by cutting the curved area out of the GM quarter. I did have to split it to accommodate for an slight additional curve across the back of the body. We still have to make our bumper bracket holes in the rear fenders. After that we can do a final re-sizing of the sides and roll the bottom of the rear pan as well as position our mounting holes.
Hi, I am restoring a 1933 dodge rumble seat cabriolet. Do you have any Sheetmetal or brackets from the backend leftover? Thanks, Mike
All I really have extra are the rumble seat hinges used almost everything else...I do have rear frame cover but its fiberglass.........let me know if you have interest...........Rick
Hello Rick I am interested in the hinges. Are they complete with the body side parts? Price? Shipping? Thanks again Steve Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Yes the body half and the lid half are both there I'll get some pics ....you can PM me ford my email...thank s RM
If you still have these(rumble hinges),I would be interested,how much and shipping to 62234...thank you...
Sorry they sold..when to california in July...still have a ton off leftover fiberglass stuff if anyone is in need ...thanks
Despite this record cold winter, Rick and I still manage to get some stuff done on his 33 Plymouth build. All the steel fenders we acquired are fitted and the patching and dent repair has begun. We also met a guy at the Syracuse Nationals who had a nice set of steel running boards with the rubber so we have changed them out. I modified an original lower air flow guard below the radiator and made another for the top. Still need to make some small ones for the sides. These will help the air flow go directly toward the radiator. Getting the hood hinge mechanism to fit correctly was a little more challenging than the directions implied. I lost count how many times we had that hood on and off and all the re-working involved. The good news is it now fits and appears to work fine. Rick has been busy taking the body down to bare metal, fixing a few dents and putting a protective coat of primer in the body parts. This has been helpful in showing where we will need body filler and what areas may need more attention. It has come a long way since we started. No more comments from friends like "are you guys nuts", "what the hell you think you can make out of that pile of scrap metal". Now they ask "when are you going to start it up", "will you have it on the road this year". Detroit Autorama is coming up soon. Rick and I like to go each year for some inspiration and maybe a few creative ideas we can use on our builds.
Our progress continues. Exhaust system is fabricated and installed, I used steel rod to remake the missing rolled edges for the bottoms of the front fenders and Rick got some 29 Dodge running board braces to work for supporting the 33 steel boards. He has also started some body work on areas of the car where we have finished our fabrication. Syracuse Nationals is coming up soon where we usually find inspiration and good ideas. Last year we met a guy who hooked us up with some nice parts for Ricks car.
The Jalopy Journal
