Technical Salvage Yard Air Conditioning ? ? ?

Underdash evaporator unit seem to be the best solution. But is it possible to use modern AC compressor (designed for r134) with old R12 units?

 

Already answered previously; usually yes.

 

Yes, i have this exact setup in my COE. A 60's underdash evap unit, designed for R-12, with a Sanden compressor and operating with R-134a. Sure the expansion valve in the evap is set for -12 and not 100% optimum for R-134a, but it blows cold just fine. Sure is nice driving across the desert to Bonneville.

BTW, the compressor can use R-134a instead of R-12, just make sure the oil used is compatible with the refrigerant type. the compressor does not have to be a new R-134a unit.

 

recycling is the way to go! $299 is cheap but not as much fun as adapting old parts kinda like "hot rodding"!

 

You got that right, and the $12 unit from boneyard looks identical to one that Southern air sells.


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The junk yard is exactly where a Southern Air Unit belongs. Pure garbage including the funky looking control panel. Vintage Air is the ONLY way to go. They've been in business for decades and have great tech support. Does anyone think for one minute that Southern Air manufactures the units they sell? Vintage Air manufactures the units they sell. Nuff said.

 

If Vintage Air MAKES the Southern Air units and they are junk, how is Vintage Air the only way to go!?

 

Most of the "drop in" R-12 reeplacement refrigerants contain flamable gas. Which could cause issues if a leak came into contact with a spark, or fire-smoking in a car with a leak.

 

Vintage air is made up of readily available components. I just repaired a vintage air system that had a leak in the evaporator. When I called vintage air tech, I was told the the unit was not serviceable because it was a sealed unit and it would have to be replaced. I removed the unit, split the case, found the leak, repaired it, and put the unit back together. After the repairs I wanted to replace the expansion valve and receiver/dryer before a final leak check and evacuation. I called vintage air once again and was told they could not help with parts information. A little time on the net provided the OE vehicles that the parts fit. The expansion valve fit Hondas and the dryer fit Acuras. The local auto part had both. After all repairs and proper charge the unit blows 38 degrees from the center vent. This was no less work than repairing a retro fit junk yard system and the junk yard setup would be a LOT less money.

 

You know they are two different companies, right?

posted via smoke signals made with a Mexican blanket

 

Back in the early 70's, there were quite a handful of auto air conditioner companies located on Harry Hines Blvd in Dallas. You could buy an "in dash" retrofit unit for something like $160-$190; they were decent units. I used to do driveway installs of these, I was slow since I did unthinkable stuff like really cutting round holes in the firewall for the hoses....the "pro" installers used a pointed 2"x2" wood stake and punched the holes in the firewall. My installation career ended when I agreed to do an install for a girl's 73 Pinto in exchange for sex......I got screwed on that (more ways than one) since it took the entire weekend to install the danged unit. There is NO room under a Pinto dash!

 

In 1986 or so I used a VW rabbit or Jetta HVAC plenum in one of my F-1 cabs. I think the compressor was out of a mid 80's chevrolet and the condenser was from the VW. The A/C hose fittings didn't match but I grafted hoses together with steel pipe and hose clamps. If I had to do it today I'd be looking at similar small cars for donor parts.

 

I recall those aftermarket units, installed a couple (not more than that! Talk about getting screwed..)
My shop was full of street roadsters and old time drag cars at the time, and always Porsches.
A very sly 'Porsche Pilot' (female, and she had all the 'toys') had me do a big service on her 356 SC, came to pick it up, brought a bottle of vintage wine.
She asked about my 'private office' upstairs, so I locked up and we settled in on my big leather couch.
We laid out flat, (you know, just to see who was taller...) Later, after cigarettes (I smoked a little back then) she asked if I was going to 'adjust' her bill.
I said, "Consider it done!" and bounced down the stairs, adding on $50.00 for 'additional services'!

She was incensed, but I told her I never 'go in the hole for my money'.
True story. She remained a customer, but the Ball Games were over.
"For the love of Mike" LOL

 

From the above post it seems Vintage Air wants to just sell you a new unit. Auto A/c is not that complicated. around $850 for a new unit, I think junkyard A/C.


Ago

 

Based on some of your great comments, I went out yesterday afternoon and removed the rear reciever/heater/blower unit from a '94 Suburban. This unit is not compact, but is very easy to remove. It has only one duct opening for shooting hot or cold air to the vents in the Suburban overhead. It appears to be well designed, but because the hoses and A/C lines point straight down, does not really lend itself to underdash installation. (Rotating the unit to re-orient the tubes and hoses would not work under the dash.)

Since I have only parking meter money and an hour invested, there is no waste if I decide to use something else....but, it appears that the Suburban rear unit might work OK in the trunk of my shoebox. Last pic shows the unit sitting in the trunk of my '50 coupe. Stay tuned.

(And keep the comments, experienced reports coming!!) Would appreciate a wiring diagram for this unit if someone knows this sort of stuff and how it works.

LATE NOTE: I recieved my Haynes Techbook: Automotive Air Conditioning And Heating.. #10425 this is a great resource for gaining an understanding of the A/C processes, tools, procedures, etc. $20 and free shipping got the job done.

 

Btw, is there need to increase engine throttle during idle while AC is ON? And if yes, are there some bolt-on solutions?

 

The units out of the conversion van and some roof units out of Suburban I have do not look like that. photos later.


Ago

 

I had a instructor at a a/c class correct me one time. He said you are not making cold air, but removing heat from the air. I have heard that several times over the years. For what it is worth.

B

 

This is the unit I took out of conversion van! $12

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Ago[/QUOTE]

 

Stay away from the Neon's when you're looking for a compressor. Some of them were built from metal that was too porous for modern refrigerants. Then again, staying away from Neons when junkyard shopping is probably good advice anyway.

 

[/QUOTE]
I think that's the same one I have.

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great idea to trunk mount the unit!

 

Ask @da34guy about trunk mounting. He tried it a few years back and it didn't work well at all. Can't remember the specifics, but it ended up being a waste of time and money.

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They don't Southern air is Chinese made.

 

If Southern Air is made in China then why do the say Made in USA?

 

Has anyone used the A/C from Gem Street Rod?

 

Not so with R414b. According to the MSDS sheet, Hot Shot is not flammable:

Flammable Properties:
Flash Point: No flash point Flammable Limits in Air (% by volume)
Flammable Limits in Air (% by volume) LEL: NONE (per ASTM E681)
Autoignition: 635ºC (1175ºF) UEL: NONE (per ASTM E681)
Fire and Explosion Hazards:
Cylinders may rupture under elevated temperatures and/or fire conditions. In concentrations above the recommended
exposure limit, open flame will vary in size and color. Eliminate the flame or ignition source and ventilate to disperse
the refrigerant vapors.
Hot Shot is not flammable at atmospheric pressure and temperatures below 100ºC (212ºF). Hot Shot should not exist
with air/excess oxygen at elevated pressures and high temperatures. Hot Shot can become combustible with combinations
of elevated temperatures, pressures, and oxygen, and an ignition source.
For example: Do not mix Hot Shot with air under pressure for leak detection purposes.

 

Yes , Gm used a solenoid that attached to the carb that was wired to the compressor circuit when the compressor turned on it pushed out a adjustable piece it looked exactly like the idle stop solenoid but on the front of the carb linkage , the GM BOPC cars had them in the 1970's its called a A/C fast idle servo , but you can buy a kit from Holley or edelbrock that includes the brackets( FAst idle solenoid)

 

and Pt cruisers as its the same driveline , wife had problems with hers loosing refridgerant all the time till they worked on it at the dealer . ( compressor and hoses were replaced )

 

was he pulling the air from the trunk or pulling it from the cabin ?? as the trunk would be excessively hot as they are not insulated like the cabin is , also I think I would want to pull the air from the cabin as the trunk could see some Co infiltration from the exhaust