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What's the best way to clean and seal a gas tank?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by delaware george, Jul 8, 2004.

  1. delaware george
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    delaware george Member

    i'm sure this has been covered before,but i'm having a hard time finding it....i want to drop the tank on our new 53 and clean it and seal it.i was thinking of putting a length of chain with some lacquer thinner in it and shaking it to death.what do you guys or gals use?what's the best thing to seal one with,if that should be done?....thanks,george
  2. Hard On Parts
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    Hard On Parts Member

    Use the chain and buy a Kreem Kit.
  3. Jaypee
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    Jaypee Member

    Yeah!! Kreem will do the job.
  4. Spitfire1776
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    Spitfire1776 Member

    I've heard, from some motorsickle guys that have used Kreem on rebuilts, that there are problems arising with some of the new additives put in petrol for emissions. Anybody heard anything on this?

    I've always liked the nuts and bolts method with either kerosene or nitric acid, to clean a tank.
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  5. tred
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    tred
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    yeah, i remember reading somethin' about strapping the tank to your tractor wheel and putting the tractor in gear...



    hey george, i was lookin' through my e-mails, and just when i came to the pictures of your new '53, the power went out at my house and i didn't get to see 'em... [​IMG]

    tred.
  6. TINGLER
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    TINGLER Member

    Put some chain, small gravel, nuts and bolts...whatever....in it and strap the tank to a tractor tire. Jack the rear of the tractor up and start it up.....
    This rotates the tank and the junk inside cleans it out.

    Don't laugh, I saw it on here! [​IMG]
    Others have strapped the tank to a cement mixer...

    I had a tank sealed with some sealer stuff, and it worked.....
    FOR ABOUT TWO MONTHS... then it started leaking. I later cut the tank open and found that the stuff simply did not adhere to the tank. If there is any rust at all in there the coating will not stick (in my opinion). I think that coating was designed for a perfect (new) tank.

    I am a firm believer in getting a brand new tank if you can. I think its worth the money. When I had my tank sealed, it cost $80. That was $80 that I spent and LOST, because it simply did not work. Hell, a small fuel cell (new) is only like $100....

    The first thing I did on my '58 was put a new tank in and replace all the lines and install 2 fuel filters. One between the tank and the pump and one before the carb. The tank is a Moon style tank ($110) from MAS and the fuel line was cheap.


    Hope some of this helps.

    VT.
  7. Spitfire1776
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    Spitfire1776 Member

    I agree the best thing to do is either get a new tank or be prepared to cut open the old tank clean with grinding wheel, etc. and have it TIG'd back together and pressure tested. The nuts and bolts idea I suggested before was for smaller tanks like motorcycle or go-karts. Bigger tanks are just way harder to clean.
  8. Phil1934
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    Phil1934 Member

    Radiator shops can boil them in the same vat they do their rads in, but wouldn't do mine as too rusty. I did a couple gals of muriatic with a baking soda and water rinse, but it still looks rough.
  9. burger
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    burger Member


    I'm in a similar situation (need gas tank cleaned cheap), but I lack a big tractor wheel. Could I just throw it in the back of my pickup for a few months?


    Ed
  10. Hard On Parts
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    Hard On Parts Member

    The Kreem kit comes with some kind of acid(do not use it indoors, I have made that mistake) that eats all of the rust off. I have used it many times with sucess and seen others that have had it in their tanks for over 5 years or more. I have not tried any other kind of sealer, but do know if you do not get out the big chunks(that tractor method sounds pretty good) with either chain or nuts & bolts the Kreem coating will not adhere to the sides of the fuel tank.

    I have to agree with the "just buy a new tank", that is probably the best thing. Alot less hassle and less work for just a little more money.

    Those moon tanks look damn good too.
  11. Baron Von Mike
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    Baron Von Mike Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    I agree the best thing to do is either get a new tank or be prepared to cut open the old tank clean with grinding wheel, etc. and have it TIG'd back together and pressure tested. The nuts and bolts idea I suggested before was for smaller tanks like motorcycle or go-karts. Bigger tanks are just way harder to clean.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I would have to agree with ol_scratch. Cutting the tank open and rewelding is the best method. I've tried many "put something in the tank and shake" methods, but none completely worked for me, and this was just with small motorcycle/scooter gas tanks. Plus you can't see all the innards easily. A dental mirror can help.

    Even after cleaning, there may be a pitted section that is waiting to give way. You can't see all this for sure unless you cut the tank open.

    Mike

  12. enjenjo
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    enjenjo Member

    I did a 51 Ford converible a few years ago, the tank was junk, but nobody made a replacement. So I took it to a metal stripper, and had him tank it. Cost $50, but removed everything. I then made patches for the large holes, and soldered them in place. After I had it basically sound, but with many pin holes, I took it to a radiator shop that does the Gas Tank Renue process. This is a coating that is baked on to the inside of the tank, and another that is baked on the outside. That cost $200. It has been fine every since, the best part, the process is guaranteed for life, including R&R labor. It is a franchise operation, most bigger towns have at least one.
  13. delaware george
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    delaware george Member

    thanks for the tips guys
  14. topdeadcenter
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    topdeadcenter Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    I did a 51 Ford converible a few years ago, the tank was junk, but nobody made a replacement.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I hear you there! I took mine to a local radiator shop and had them acid etch it and seal it with a vinyl sealer that is guarenteed for life. It cost me $175 and it took about 1 week.

    Good luck!
    Mike
  15. FeO2
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    FeO2 Member

    George,Muratic acid solution works very well & it is cheap.Buy it at a hardware store.It is used for cleaning masonary.I buy it pure and mix to strength required.Neutralize with baking soda & water solution.25% solution is fairley strong stuff.And always use eye protection! [​IMG]
  16. Baumi
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    Baumi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    [ QUOTE ]
    yeah, i remember reading somethin' about strapping the tank to your tractor wheel and putting the tractor in gear...

    tred.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    [​IMG]I´ve found it!
    Redneck Ingenuity

    [​IMG]
  17. Phil1934
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    Phil1934 Member

    I've seen it done with a concrete mixer too
  18. Hard On Parts
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    Hard On Parts Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    yeah, i remember reading somethin' about strapping the tank to your tractor wheel and putting the tractor in gear...

    tred.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    [​IMG]I´ve found it!
    Redneck Ingenuity

    [​IMG]

    [/ QUOTE ]




    That is some funny shit, it looks like a 67-72 Bowtie truck tank. Would like to see it in action.
  19. deuceV8
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    deuceV8 Member

    I take mine to a local place that dips car bodys etc in acid over night and it comes out whistling clean.
  20. zman
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    zman
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    I'll third the Renue (?) suggestion, got a local radiator shop that does it, worth the $200 bucks. As for Kreem, stay away, it's crap. If you're gonna do it yourself use the POR-15 Tank Epoxy, much better stuff. The last bike shop I worked in I probably had to redo 4 or five tanks in 6 or 7 months that people had Kreemed.
  21. DeS
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    DeS Member

    Two component epoxy paint persist gas. After you have cleaned tank, then make ready paint mixture about half gallon (or more how big your tank is) and put it to tank, then turn that tank slowly over and over again. When you think that paint is allover the tank keep turning it around. Other way to seal tank is clean outside well and coat it all over with fiberglass but...... fiberglass SUCKS!! [​IMG]
  22. choprods
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    choprods Alliance Vendor

    I cut a 8x8 hole it top[after thourough rinsing] and sand blast the inside/weld patch over hole-rinse with laquer thiunner/dry ...then pour in a quart of MARINE SPAR VARNISH. slosh all around and drain it back in can for next useage.
    allow to dry two days...then ya are good to go!
    spar varnish contains same ingredients as tank sealers JUST NO RED DYE!]
    Instead of 35 dollars its 7.00 [​IMG]
  23. Elrod
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    Elrod Member

    Yup. Caustic Soda Dip. Comes out like a shiney penny inside and out. The place in Ft Worth Texas does it for something like $110. Well worth it since the radiator shop wanted $80 to basically put it in hot water. Give me a break.

    Then seal it with that Gas tank sealer. It's the first thing I do on all the cars I drive.
  24. CTFuzz
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    CTFuzz Member

    If you know what you are doing(that's the hitch), Kreem works great, I have used it for many years, just follow directions! The tank must be clean before putting in the Kreem. Kreem is a sealer, if you don't need it just clean the tank........
  25. delaware george
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    delaware george Member

    is sealing the tank really needed?it has gas in it now,it's just been sitting for a long time
  26. Elrod
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    Elrod Member

    sealing the tank after spending money to acid dip the tank keeps the tank from rusting again when the gas level goes down. It's basically fixing it so you don't have to do it again, and making it so you don't have to always keep the tank full of gas if you park it for a while.
  27. delaware george
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    delaware george Member

    thanks [​IMG]...i'll keep you posted
  28. 34Fordtk
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    34Fordtk Member

    Use Jesters idea it works great!!!!!!! If you gotsamule [​IMG]

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