Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects The Official "Chop Sewage" Build Thread Start to Finish?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Salty, Dec 27, 2008.

  1. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Yeah....Now that I actually Got the desire to work on it I better take advantage of it....That said I"ve spent months with no energy....I thought it was just a by-product of all the shit our family has been through....Long story short...Go get a physical peeps.....my levels were all fuckered up....they got me leveled back out and now I'm back off the adjustment meds....

    It does feel better workin on it tho...
     
  2. hotdamn
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,383

    hotdamn
    Member

    I cant believe I have never seen this thread?????

    got any updates???
     
  3. LN7 NUT
    Joined: Sep 9, 2010
    Posts: 2,165

    LN7 NUT
    Member


    I know right?

    I'm subscribed now for sure! :D
     
  4. gottago
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 2

    gottago
    Member
    from New Mexico

    How are the NUTS doing? OOPS gottago (Dad)
     
  5. ol'chevy
    Joined: Nov 1, 2005
    Posts: 1,283

    ol'chevy
    Member

  6. oldcarfart
    Joined: Apr 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,436

    oldcarfart
    Member

    I miss Jacksonville but not the humidity and 4 p.m. rain squalls (grin). Any odd supplies or parts needed contact Wally Koberal at NAPA in Orange Park (near Adamec's Harley shop) he's a walking supply catalog and all around good guy.
     
  7. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    OK....been a long time coming....sorry for the long delay....I won't make too many excuses HOWEVER right after the baby got better, I found myself in a funk....I worked my way through it....then I got medically ill....nothing too terribly serious....HOWEVER lets just say that my boys were not happy, which in turn made me not happy....I will say that me and my bag of frozen peas got real friendly. IN ADDITION TO THAT, our digital camera got stolen and it took us a little while to replace it....much work has been done to the truck but alot of it wasn't documented....

    So we'll jump forward a little bit...the last major fab work I need to do to the truck concerns the bed....SO I ripped it off and dove into it. As a bit of background I'm raising the bed floor as I do not like the bed floor notches that go around the step notch. Additionally, I routed my exhaust OVER the rear notch so I can put the output all the way to the rear of the truck...

    Finally the bed is going to be capped off with a flush mount tonneau cover out of steel. The original plan was to re-use my old round fuel tank mounted to the new raised bed floor....after setting up the floor and setting the old tank in the bed I realized I hated it....It just didn't flow, looked like an after thought and in general didn't "feel" right. SO I did what any red blooded hot rodder would do....looked for a cheap alternative...My Idea was that by raising the bed floor I would have some dead, unusable space in between of the old floor and the new floor....

    First of all, the pure awesomeness of a raw bed.
    Picture_075.jpg

    I quickly found out that a custom tank equals BIG BUCKS....more than I can afford...so I found a cheaper alternative, RCI produces fuel tanks in a bunch of different dimentions with the fuel level sender already installed for $225. I found the right size that would work for my application and still thought I could get a better deal....I did and found one brand new, with all sorts of coupon codes attached and free shipping from a lil no name distributor for a cool $150....Behold, the old tank and the new tank.
    Picture_074.jpg

    NOW there is only one place that makes a ready to use bracket that is uber expensive for a bottom mount jeep application. As I am mounting the tank and essentially hanging it at a specific depth that would not work for me in addition that I couldnt justify the $225 to buy something I was going to cut up....so I made my own. I overkilled the hell outta it, gussets, supports etc....(and yes it is offset on purpose as I had to work around the fuel filler assembly)
    Picture_076.jpg
    Picture_077.jpg
    Picture_083.jpg
    Picture_084.jpg

    Unfortunaly I didn't snap a pic of the tank in the bracket and in the bed....but here is some with the bracket in the bed.
    Picture_076.jpg
    Picture_077.jpg

    And a pic of the opening with the side stringers and dedicated nuts on the bed opening.
    Picture_086.jpg

    NOW on to the bed floor, I got the great idea to buy a bed off of Craigs list to provide donor metal. I found a "pristine" Dodge Dakota bed for $50 and cut it up....in hind sight I should have just bought a replacement bed floor from a dealer....it woulda saved me about 20ish hours repairing damage and drilling 133 rivets (yes I counted them and yes they got welded shut again) from the stock dodge clunky crossmembers...what I'm now working with.
    Picture_079.jpg
    Picture_080.jpg

    now to raise the bed floor I set up the floor where I wanted it and made a perimeter platform as it were to retain the floor, the crossmembers were added right before the floor was welded in. I just used some 1" by 1" as opposed to the big assed crossmembers from the dodge.
    Picture_085.jpg
    Picture_078.jpg
    Picture_090.jpg

    and the floor permenently installed. (looks SWEET!)
    Picture_087.jpg

    Now look at this picture. You'll see some additions that were not originally there...The two uprights were set into the bedsides and form an upside down U, there is a peice of 1"x1" steel under the bed lip on top. The two uprights connect with the original bed supports, the driver side bed supports were beefed up and it was all connected....kinda like a unibody concept. What this is for is the hinge mount pads for the hard top tonneau cover. The cover will hinge on the passenger side so I have greater access to the fuel filler side (drivers). It will also be actuated by a pair of jack screws so I don't have to fab a latch system for the lid. The jack screws will serve as the latch....no power, no movement. Unfortunatly, use your imajination as its hard as hell to depict in photos. It will be explained greater in depth as you see the additional equipment added as time goes on.
    Picture_085.jpg

    NOW finally, I started (but not finished) the fuel filler door opening in the bed floor. I still have to tighten up the gaps as you can see by the magic marker but we're getting close, I like how it looks. I originally used the hinge pocket assembly from the Dodge. This was a good idea in theory but due to the fact that the fuel door is now twice as thick as the dodge fuel door ended up not working (that damb Corigated steel) SO I am going to plan B, a C shaped fuel door hinge out of a 2009 Impala....I don't have it yet so we'll worry about makin it work in a few days when I get it....worked great on paper and not installed....worked like shit when installed....oh well, It's a learning curve.
    Picture_088.jpg
    Picture_089.jpg

    The next plan is to get the lip/perimeter tacked into place that the Tonneau cover will seat on. THe corners of the bed will be radiused and filled providing a more gentle/soft sweeping corner as opposed to the hard 90* that is built in stock. The framework for the tonneau cover will be built as well as the mechanics to raise and lower it. once all the mechanics and such are sorted out the sides of the inner bed will be smoothed out and sterilized.

    Be patient, Should start pickin up pretty good now!
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2011
  8. Glad to hear the baby is better, and health stuff is sorted out. Good to see you back on this. Good work!
     
  9. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Thanks!

    To add on about my medical issue....man lemme tell you, when shit goes sideways with your boys....suck it up and go to a doctor ASAP....I didn't cause you know....it'll go away....it didn't...I ended up having some deep rooted infection that if left untreated my pair woulda been possibly trimmed down to a army of one....not cool.

    Anyway, I picked up my re-apropriated 2009 Impalla hinge assembly today....I'm happy to say that the way the door opens will work awesome at pulling the door up, clear the floor then open.....it's all about the trajectory I suppose.

    I also picked up some ABS panels for the inner doors so the trimmer can have something solid to work with when the time comes....more updates soon!
     
  10. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Minor update....Well I got what I thought was going to work in the form of a 2009 Chevy Impala fuel filler door hinge assembly.

    I shoulda listened to my pops...who by the way isn't here (2000ish miles away) when he said "you sure thats going to work?.....that mechanism is pretty deep."

    "Sure Dad," I reply, "I'll work, I have plenty of room."

    Famous last words....

    So anyway, this is after I spent more time tweeking and tuning the fuel door gaps of course...cause you know....it'll work...I set the mechanism up on the platform that originally got fabbed for the Dodge door, drilled the holes and mounted it in...then figgered, I better chuck the tank in there and make sure it clears (just for good measure....cause it'll work.)

    Yeah, I'm a retard, cause it didn't work.

    So then I get the bright idea to cut the mount flange off and mount it even with the stepped platform....great idea in theory....it still did not get me enough room in between of the tank and mechanism....

    SO now I'll be cutting the fuel filler bucket BACK out; welding the chunk of floor BACK in and going with what I probably should have gone with in the beginning which is a flush mount filler....I'll have to make some alterations to the floor to make it flow (widen the runner it will mount on) but I'll have to see exactly what once I get the parts....

    This filler door really turned into a pain in the ass!

    What I started with
    Picture 091.jpg Picture 092.jpg

    After disassembling the spring and bumper and cutting it down.
    Picture 093.jpg

    Did I mention it's a learning process....yeah sometimes I learn hard....I'll get it licked.
     
  11. I SMELL SMOKE
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,527

    I SMELL SMOKE
    Member

    i have had to re do every thing on my project at least once it seems like.so i know how you feel. every thing really looks good. how in the world are you keeping your metal from flash rusting? I'm sure there was alot of time in striping that bed. keep it up
     
  12. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    There was gobs of time in stripping that blasted bed floor.....that was another PITA.

    I normaly use the eastwoods metal prep to prevent flash rust in Ye ol' Florida...that said when I pulled all this metal down it was the fall....I haven't put anything on it scince I ground it down and have not had any flash rust issues due to the lack of humidity in this time of year....

    This is what I usually use
    http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-metal-wash.html

    Works great.

    Waiting on parts to finish this blasted project/fuel filler thingy up so I can move on....I hate working on the same thing over and over again....
     
  13. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Real small update on the build (it's the little things I suppose) I've been in a shitty midnight shift work cycle (12hr midnight shifts and its our long week) but it worked out well seeing as I've been waiting on parts...

    I've had a gift card to speedway for over a year and couldn't figger out what I wanted to spend it on....when I had issues with the fueling port my mind was made up for me....

    Behold....the parts to bail me out of a jam...
    Picture 095.jpg Picture 097.jpg

    and finally, something that should work....hope so cause I'm running out of options!
    Picture 098.jpg

    I bought the battery charge lugs as well....you'll see why as things in the bed get done but seeing as the truck gets pretty low and the battery is under the floor in the cab I figured it would be best to hide those somewhere that you can get to them in the event of a dead battery...

    And even though it was my first technical day off I loafed about and didn't do a dang thing that I felt like I needed and played with the kids the majority of the day.....the result?

    Picture 099.jpg

    Yup...if you've been following this thread thats my same beutiful little girl that ain't so little anymore! Far cry from the 3lbs 19 months ago! She's a trip and a hell of alot of fun.

    Thats all for now....more in the next few days scince I'm off the grinders and welders will be re-primed...
     
  14. JJTF
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 104

    JJTF
    Member

    Subscribed.
    That bed is going to look great.
     
  15. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Alright, got some stuff done....I didn't take alot of photos of the fuel filler drama as honestly I wanted to get the thing done and move on to something else....

    Even though I have somemore metal work to do to even things up/smooth things out here it is in roughed in shape. The end result: even though I had to undo everything I did and redo it 3 times AND modify the parts I got to get it to work....it works. The only thing I'm not happy with is the fact that the filler port isn't centered and due to space constraints of where the tank is forced to sit I cannot do anything about it....oh well it will be covered up by the tonnoue cover anyway (hate to look at it that way but it is what it is) It still looks nice....it just bugs me a bit.
    Picture 101.jpg

    The next shots I will preface as saying: A) This may not be the best way to do it and B) This may not be how you would do it...BUT it worked so what the hell. First I started out with a 4 straight peices of 1" angle iron. I needed to make 4 identical sweeping 90 degree bends so after some experimentation I figured out a good formula to whip up the bends I wanted. I clamped all 4 peices of angle together, made 20 slices 1" apart and bent the angle. Basically when you bend the angle it closes the slice leaving no room for the weld. I fought that by making the bend and then slicing it again opening up the weld area....worked well....just labor intensive as you have to weld both sides and do everything 4 times. I fabbed one 90 up first, then used at as a template for the other 3.
    Picture 102.jpg Picture 103.jpg
    Picture 104.jpg

    The next group of shots is after you spend a bunch of time welding, grinding and fitting, then put all the 90's in the bed and fill in the straight peices. The entire tonnoue perimeter is tacked in though all of the angle is welded into the oval...My method of thinking was if I screwed something up somewhere along the line I'll realize it when the framework for the top starts getting fabbed and be able to correct it relativly easlily.

    Picture 105.jpg Picture 106.jpg
    Picture 107.jpg

    I was quite pleased when I got the perimeter in as I can finally start seeing the picture in my head come to fruition....pretty neato if you ask me.

    And finally I'm using the same principal on the square tube....As a sideline, (I just remebered) there was a J-ville HAMB'r tryin to help me out by finding a guy with a square tube bender....Sorry i didn't PM ya....until now I forgot about it and we are just pressing forward with some sort of progress.

    You'll again see that I took 4 peices of 3/4" square tube, marked em in the same fashion and sliced the hell outta them....these I clamped together and made all the cuts at the same time. I used the same principal on the square tube, made the bend, then re-cut for the weld.

    Picture 108.jpg Picture 109.jpg

    After these were done I clamped them into the perimeter and welded them all up....no photos of that right now, I shut it down at bout 0300 eastern...

    Thats all for now! it should get pretty exciting (least for me) as you should see marked progress to the end result. The plan right now is to get the tonnoue framework fabbed, the mechanism/hinges in, get all of that working then smooth the inner sides of the bed (basically putting a curtain in from the angle perimeter to the floor) and last but not least skin the tonnoe cover.

    Stay tuned!
     
  16. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Welp....after many hour of tedious welding, grinding etc the top is starting to come together....unfortunatly I didn't take the the amount of in progress pics as I would have liked....but you get the idea....

    After many hours of fitting corners I got the perimeter of the frame intact....then it's time to fill it....

    I was going to weld it all up tonight....however there isn't a welding supply around at midnight and I got everything tacked in then promptly ran out of wire....oh well...still happy as hell how it's turning out.

    Prior to filling it in
    Picture 110.jpg

    After
    Picture 112.jpg Picture 113.jpg
    Picture 114.jpg
     
  17. I SMELL SMOKE
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,527

    I SMELL SMOKE
    Member

    looks good salty!!! also looks like lots of time invested in those bends!!
     
  18. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,005

    koolkemp
    Member

    Great to see the progress pics ! I love the steel tonneau cover nice work!!
     
  19. 60 ford
    Joined: Nov 23, 2007
    Posts: 1,807

    60 ford
    Member

    Cool build, subscribed.
     
  20. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida


    You don't know the half of it.....I spoke with a chassis fabricator (roundy round guy) who had the dies to bend square tube....after bench racing with him we both came to the conclusion that bending the tube may not be the best as the metal in the bends tends to expand (the top and bottom) not making it a true 3/4"....due to the fact that I'm going to be skinning this with steel, flatness and uniformity is key....so I went with the cutting method.

    It took a hell of alot of time, 20 slices a tube, beveling each weld contact location so I can knock it down flat (three sides each cut) and then once you get one done....still have three left...

    Glad the corners are done....(thats all I have to say about that)

    Thanks guys I appreciate it a ton....we're getting to the cool shit now!
     
  21. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Okey dokey....timefor an update, unfortunatly I've been pretty laxidasical about taking in progress pics so alot is lost in the translation...

    Basically what you see here is cutting the frame back apart, moving things in a bit, welding a cold rolled lip in place to distance the tube from the frame yet maintain my gap....remounting the hinges to avoid the built in ramp they had built in...welding the female side of the frame to the bed, smoothing it and scraping the whole shebang back down and shooting it in weld through primer for the next round.

    Doesnt seem like alot, but when you put it together and take it apart a zillion times, then cut it back up and re-do it a couple times as well as figure out at the geometry and fab all the stuff up for the hinges and actuating system it takes a bit longer than you expect...

    I also just finished seam sealing the everloving shit outta the interior and underside of the bed...

    Next up, smooth the inside of the bed and skin the frame and get the underside of the bed in primer, sound deadener and chassis black...YEE-HAW!

    Behold
    Picture 115.jpg Picture 116.jpg
    Picture 117.jpg Picture 118.jpg

    I've said it before, I'll say it again....If I woulda known it was gonna be this much work I may have not done it....good thing I'm not very smart I guess.
     
  22. I SMELL SMOKE
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,527

    I SMELL SMOKE
    Member

    looking good salty!!! i know whatcha mean about working out the geometry when fabricating.
     
  23. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Thanks Smoke,

    I'll be picking up the steel for the inner bed smoothing project here inna few days and hope to get it done prior to my pops comin to visit....I want to assemble all of the mechanisms, acuators and hinges and show em to him....it works awesome with the (cough cough) non-traditional linear actuators.

    I'll get some pics up here shortly with all of the stuff installed and workin....I think it's pretty dang sweet....
     
  24. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    I posted this on the Homemade tools thread but seeing as it's for this build I figgured I'd put it here....

    Warning, this is severe ghetto rigged tools born by cheapness....

    So say you find a need to use a non-traditional application of 3M Panel bond but your too darn cheap to buy the expensive appicator gun (95 bucks)to do it....This was my instance, I found a need in which 3M panel bond was a better option than welding due to the large expanse of flat steel I didnt feel like warping by welding....I've never had the need to use it before and don't see another reason in a long time to use it again.

    SO I bought a tube of the 3M panel bond and as you can see it's odd sized tube sizes....
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    My original thought was to split the tubes and mix it like mud and manually apply it....then I thought, you know I have 6 caulk guns I bet I can figure out how to make one work.

    Here's the two styles.
    [​IMG]

    I picked the one on top mainly cause I could fit the odd shaped tubes in between of the uprights. Cut the assembly off as shown.
    [​IMG]

    and trimmed the bottom peice to capture the odd sized tubes so it doesnt slide around.
    [​IMG]

    As you can see it's off center a bit as it needed to be a little centered for the plungers I'm about to make.

    All of this was built with scrap 1/2" angle iron....it also should be noted that this took me less than an hour, did not use a tape measure (MK1 MOD 0 eyeball) and found that the metal that the chinese used to construct the caulk gun was absolute crap and did not like to be welded so it's UGLY.....like horible, not proud of it F'd up UGLY....BUT it works....

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    and with the tube inserted

    [​IMG]

    And there you have it, a free tool to combat the expensive assed 3M gun.
    <!-- / message --><!-- attachments -->
     
  25. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.....

    Todays project is smoothing the inside of the bed...seeing as I hacked up a S10 bed and turned it into a 49 bed some years ago I've never liked all the busyness with the inner stampings of the steel....seeing as this is a custom of sorts I figgured I'd smooth things out a bit by installing a simple clean skirt covering all of that messyness....

    First up is the fresh, virgin steel I bought:
    IMG_0393.JPG IMG_0394.JPG
    IMG_0398.JPG

    If you'll notice it's all sheered up real nice....the bloke I bought the steel off of charged me 5 bucks to sheer up what I needed....this saved me a TON of time.... (Arnetts in St Augustine for you FL boys....super great people to deal with and dont soak ya with a $300 minimum steel purchase and let ya in their shop to help out with your project)

    Next this is my super custom, Ultra secret Squirl 90 degree brake, a welding bottle works great to provide gentle 90's in sheet steel....
    IMG_0399.JPG

    I dont have a pic of a flat sheet prior to bending it but the principle is throwing lines on the metal 1 inches apart with a square, 8 lines on each side of center. Honestly, the lines are to keep ya honest and not bend the 90 at an upsweeping angle. Then you chuck it up in your super custom, ultra secret Squirl 90 degree brake and start putting your 90 in it....it's mainly by feel and when you think your close, put it in the corner and see where your at, adjust as nessesary.
    IMG_0401.JPG

    After your done this is what you'll have.
    IMG_0400.JPG

    I have all of the interior smoothing steel already installed and welded in but no photos on hand at the present moment, I'll update later this evening.

    As a final note if you look to the side of this pic you'll see the tonneau cover and the steel thats waiting for it....this is what I'll be using the panel bond on....before you get critical of me deciding to use panel bond as opposed to more traditional methods....this peice of flat steel is absolutly perfect, nary a dent, ding or rust....I didn't want to take a chance at warping that large of peice of flat and decided to go this route...more on that inna bit as it will be this evenings project.
    IMG_0398.JPG

    As a final final note I just realized I filled the corners somewhere along the line....I'll take some pics of that here inna short and post them as well....
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2012
  26. Midwest Rodder
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,768

    Midwest Rodder
    Member

    It's really coming along and looking good.
     
  27. I SMELL SMOKE
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,527

    I SMELL SMOKE
    Member

    salty your not cutting any corners!!!!! looking really nice!!
     
  28. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    not true! Did you read the post about the panel bond gun?:eek:

    Lol...thx bro
     
  29. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Aight....got to tryout my ghetto fabulous panel bond gun....lemme do a review on said gun....It's a good darn thing that I only had one tube of this compound to use....The compound itself acts like a automixing JB Weld.

    It's kinda thick and takes some juice to get out of the tube with your ghetto rigged gun...Good thing I don't switch hands too often and gotta super duper strong right hand! Bottom line....if I used this stuff all of the time I am fairly certain that I would buy the appropriate tool as I'm sure they have the mechanical forces needed to get the goop outta the gun toned down and it's likley engineered for the compound as opposed to my caulk gun turned panel bond gun. Additionally, the gun is heavier than hell and after carting it around and holding it up using it plus squeezing the crap out at the same time....needless to say your arm starts to complain....nuff of that...it worked....nuff said.

    Here we are all set up ready to go, surfaces 3M strip disked down per instructions. I was going to set the frame work in the cradle all of the way but then I was concerned with gluing the thing to the bed if anything weeped out so I put a plywood spacer on the perimeter.
    IMG_0407.JPG IMG_0409.JPG

    here is the steel, if you look close you can see that I drew the outline of the frame on the steel then just prep-ed the areas the stringers were going to be in.
    IMG_0410.JPG

    And here we are, moment of truth, gun all loaded up, gloves at the ready.
    IMG_0411.JPG

    Now this is where it gets a bit muddy as I squeezed out the panel bond on the entire framework....twice(two beads) then per the instructions you trowel it down....My intent was to take photos of that so you could see it in action however you have 2 hours to get your peice in place....and it took awhile to get all the goop on the framework....I let the mental clock get at me and got in a rush and didn't take any photos....

    Here is the final fit prior to spreading the panel bond...
    IMG_0414.JPG IMG_0415.JPG

    And next up for your enjoyment....some absolute ghetto fabulouso "clamping". Per the instructions it's recomended to clamp the peice....seeing as we have gravity working with us and the fact that there are too many clamping points and the area is so huge I used weight.....here it is in it's pure awesomeness.....doesn't get much better than this....the point, it got the weight evenly distributed...I left all the junk on it for the required 4 hours then pulled it off to finish curing.
    IMG_0416.JPG IMG_0417.JPG

    And the finished product....doesnt look any different from the dry fit does it?
    IMG_0418.JPG

    Oh, if you look a the framework you'll see I angle cut a peice of 3/4" and added support. Dad always said if your going to kill it....overkill it!
    IMG_0412.JPG

    And to back track a little....check out the sweet assed hinges I'm using for the lid....way overbuilt rated at 300lbs for the pair....stainless steel....no billet here!
    IMG_0413.JPG

    The final thing I have to do is do the final fit and finish on the lid to the bed....

    The next post will be with the hinges, and linear actuators installed and if I can figure out how to do it a video of it working....
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2012

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.