OK due to lask of space and time, it is the BUILD that will be slow.... hopefully not the motor. I had a bone stock 32 Tudor that I sold to get the kid Edumacated. It was too nice to hotrod anyway. An acquaintance Model A guy had been sitting on this B motor. I asked him about it at the right time and he sold it to me. Diamond block B that was out of an AA farm truck in Kansas (he was there when the took it out. Been stored inside ever since. Head is a diamond cast too. Looks low mileage to me. First step is disassembly, get it dipped and checked out. My plan at this point is to run Babbits, 7:1 crowsfoot iron Winfield (Tod's), Brierley cam, FSI ignition, Cast Iron header (also Tod). Leaning towards a weber for carb. Not sure on the fuel pump but leaning towards mechanical (are there good repops out there?
Lol, no worries. Whatever you do, definitely interested. Not enough of what you're about to do ... and two thumbs up on the link in your signature. What a cool car. Enough said. Onward, at your leisure. Thanks !
Due to my current lack of a garage, but desire to stay in the hobby, I do not have a chassis to put it in yet. I am trusting the car gods to provide at the appropriate time. Not being overly trusting, I have a line on two late model A pickups that due to owners age will be available soon (friends, not trying to screw anyone). Thinking a fender-less pickup. The main target was in a Farm equipment dealership with my Dad. fortunately the pickup says "xxxxx.. equipment" and not XXXX...Farm Equipment on the side.
First question. What's the best source for the assorted bolts and studs for the motor? I plan on replacing them all.
Bangers rule so I like your thinking. You have a diamond block and it looks like it has potential. I buy most all my assorted fasteners from Snyder's. Use the moly head studs If you run an A head (Winfield) on a B block you will likely need to plug the two steam holes next to the # 1 stud (center or #1 in the tightening sequence) so you don't get a coolant leak into a cylinder. Look the valve area over real good to make sure that there are no cracks. As for a fuel pump, verify that you can use a stock one with the headers. I don't know of a stock re-pop fuel pump. I run electric on my 'B' powered A as it has headers. If you get to that point on your 'slow build' I can dig through some stuff and see if I have a spare manual one Larry
If I remember correctly there is one slightly longer stud on the Model A that holds the clamp for the ignition cable. The Model A also has two longer studs for the water inlet. Charlie Stephens
Well, drop the motor at the machinist tomorrow. So far have ordered two 81's from uncle max, a B distributor with modern internals from Renner and am on the list for Tod's Winfield cast iron and his cast headers. Will post the results from someone smarter than me looking at motor.
Charlie, this one seems to have two longer studs in the back on the passenger side?? I can't thing of any reason for them. Motor is at the builders for disassembly and inspection. Looks like cylinders are original bore. A good sign. Need to decide a transmission set up so I can get the bell housing and fly wheel set up. I know the B and A are different flywheels but am I correct in that a lightened A flywheel will fit a B motor? Can I use an Aa bellhousing?
I don't know of any reason for the two longer studs, probably just something they had laying around. The A and B flywheels are interchangeable on the engines. The problem is if you try to run an A flywheel with a B transmission the flywheel will hit the transmission case. The B flywheel will fit fine in the A transmission case. Depending on how they lightened the flywheel you should be able to use an A flywheel with a Model B transmission case. I assume you are going with a V8 clutch while you are at it? I don't understand your question about the "Aa" (did you mean "AA"?) bellhousing (but I don't know much about them and probably couldn't answer anyway)? Charlie Stephens
I read enough to be dangerous. This is the sort of thing I have seen around "AA bellhousing is desirable for T5 Transmission swaps". I assume that is what this is referring too? I have access to a couple of these.(not the exact one in the photo though)
Jim, Nice to see you starting a build thread. I always hesitate to start my own since it's taking me sooooo damn long At least I can learn from you. I'm subscribed.
Ahh but you are cursed like I was with the Tudor (which was sold by the way). Car was too valuable and original to screw up. I got my first new part this week. Rebuilt B distributor from Renners.
Well, I have done some soul searching. I am in the midst of doing a highboy woodie I have a reversed spring up front, reversed spring in the rear with 41 shackles, warmed over 4, 16" rims without fenders and redoing the front doors to be more like the pickup. I'm keeping the mechanicals and adding sliding windows. I'm also thinking Kawanee green.
Another piece of the puzzle. plus Cam on it's way to Brierley and the following ordered form Piranio: 1# A 6502-ss-hp 1pc valve & guide conversion-1.700 intake Includes 4-1.700 intake valves,4- 1.530 exh valves , 8- 1 piece valve guides, 8- modern retainers, 1- modern keeper set 1#6513- Valve spring set 4#6509-s - Valve seats for 1.70 valve 4# 6507- Valve seat
Subbed, Just got the bad news from the machine shop on my diamond block, "junk" Cracks in the valve seats that can't be stiched. Good luck on yours.
Agree to that statement. from the photo above it looks like you have the upper half of the bell housing for the B engine. the bottom half is the back of the oil pan on a B. You would need to cut that part off the B oil pan if you use the AA housing with the B engine. The AA housing can be used for a T-5 transmission set up. V8 clutch is a good idea on the engine you are building. I wish I had and now I'm going to when I fix the transmission. Hope that helps Larry
At this point the AA is a spare. I plan on a b transmission. I can do a v8 clutch with that and a lightened flywheel, right?
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