Hot Rods The 56 buick wagon wont start again?

Good to hear that you are mobile again! HRP

 

How old is the ignition switch? original? Check the switch and get yourself a pertronix ignitor!=problem solved

 

Smoked it looks used .I think I will replace it and if that doent work I will go the way you say.Any idea what a set up like that goes for? And can a simple guy like me install it? Thanks.Bruce.

 

Well took the 56 wagon out to food city this morning ran good except where the heater core is missing a little chilly there.Finished shopping and at a stop light she started acting up again and she stalled right in the middle of a busy intersection with all the traffic backed up. I manage to get her fired up still running choppy, I pulled in to a parking lot and took out the jumper wire .I thought I would have to run it from the coil to the battery but it really sparked when I touched the coil so It must still be getting power to the coil. Got back in her and put her in drive and made it home. I just cant figure it out. I am determed to keep driving her still she catches fire or quits running .Wish I could figure this out. P.S. Thanks for all your input and help. Bruce.

 

As easy as installing points and condensor. I ve had one in my 41 chev for 10 years no problems! The pertronix last time I checked were like 100.00 more or less. The upside is a no more focking around with setting points! And so far its been bullet proof.

 

keep at it! you will figure it out sooner or later! Just think how many times that Ignition switch has been turned on and off over the years,they do wear out. Good luck! R Linde

 

HEY BRUCE, Started a non car related conversation . Got a couple questions for ya.

 

Glad you are making progress. Invest in a volt meter with an audio continuity tester if you do not have one. ($25 or so at Sears) You have a ballast resistor pictured, which lowers the voltage to the coil, for a reason. Bypassing that resistor may put too much voltage in the coil (compared to the way parts were designed to work together). Not sure of the result, but may be too much heat in coil. Set volt meter to VDC on 20 v range and make sure black lead has a good ground. With your jumper wire removed, how much voltage do you have at resistor from switch (should be 12+) and at the output to coil? Should be somewhere around half.
-You probably need a larger wire from start button to starter relay
-Your jumper wire from ign to coil+ could be connected to the output side of the starter button or the starter relay. That would provide 12 volts to coil+ only during cranking.
-Check coil+ voltage while running (should be somewhere around 6-8), then watch voltage while dropping it in gear. There may be a neutral safety switch out of adjustment, or something interrupting coil power.

If you decide to go with Pertronix, make sure you get or have the matching coil. That may be the time to get a coil that uses 12 volts at + terminal, allowing removal of ballast resistor and one wire between IGN side of switch and coil+. Their tech guys are helpful.
You are still going to have to check that you have enough voltage at coil + with IGN on and during START.

 

Quits or catches fire?
Seems like there's a better option.
It runs ok for a little while with 12 volts jumper on the coil. But that will burn it up sooner or later.

You should have a bypass off the starter solenoid that gives full 12 volts only while cranking to ease starting. Very important.
Then it should drop back to 9 volts to run. I see a Balast resister, what the voltage going in and coming out? That's very important. Very important.

 

hey bruce i put the pertronix in mine .. runs perfect now

 

If you have access to a hand vacuum pump hook it to the vacuum advance and pull vacuum while running. you may have a brake in the wire to the point or ground that happens when the advance plate moves.

 

Thanks Sunbeam .I will check it out.Bruce.

 

Arabie what did it set you back if you don't mind me asking. Hard to install?Bruce.

 

$100.00 AND ABOUT 20 MINUTES.. SUPER EASY TO INSTALL....

 

U DO HAVE TO PULL THE DISTRIBUTOR TO CHECK THE GAP BETWEEN THE ROTOR AND THE IGNITOR..

 

UR LOCAL PARTS STORE SHOULD HAVE IT IN STOCK...

 

I think I may go that way after the holidays.Wonder if e bay has it any cheaper? Thanks.Bruce.

 

Do you have to get a different coil with that set up? ThanksBruce.

 

I DID JUST TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE

 

When I was in High School points and condensers were still common- the mechanic at the Esso station I
worked at would replace the condenser and hide the old one somewhere on the car just incase the condenser
failed. It happened rarely but often enough that knowing where there was one for that car that worked made
a service call after hours an easy fix if the condenser failed. The newer replacements seem to fail more often
than the older ones.

 

Make sure your coil is not wired backwards. Had the same thing on a flathead and the guy before me had them switched. Coneected them correctly, ran like a top

 

jetnow, I put the old condenser back in and it made no difference.Thanks Bruce.

 

Gasmanm, dumb ass me in my haste I did install the coil in backwards .I fixed that and it ran better but when I put her in to any gear she stalled so that's why I tapped to to the main wiring and ran it to the coil with an in line fuse. She will run good for a while and then stumbles and stalls. Heres the picture.ThanksBruce.

 

Don't know if I'd trust ebay for pertronix with all the knock off parts on the market. I'd by one from your local reputable parts house. That way you have a place to turn if you would happen to have a problem. They are not difficult to install and you can switch back to your points system if you ever wanted too. They fit under the factory cap and no one knows but you!

 

bruce sounds like you have a loose connection in the wiring harness somewhere . check the voltage from the switch to the coil by hooking up a volt meter and wiggle the wire along the length to the coil and also from the fuse block to the switch . I have seen this gremlin show up in old and new o/t cars many times all it takes is a wire to be broken internally to drop voltage or a switch contact to be not making a secure one . get a VOM from radio shack or harbor freight , doesn't have to be fancy as your car is not calculator controlled

 

Oldsjoe, I will get it from my parts store Federated auto parts.Thanks.Bruce.

 

Stimpy , that's what I am thinking, my brother just gave me a good meter so will start checking all the wires. I wish I could find a good blow up picture of all the wiring. I have one in the book but its so small and hard to read. Thanks.Bruce

 

Simple and shows the essentials only.

 

Try replacing the coil. It is starting to go bad. Try another one before buying new. Stay with stock replacement. Shy away from performance coils, good luck

 

Don't you just hate it when you do stuff like that. I do.