Now mind you this is a fairly simple tech, but it affects EVERYONE that has a old hunk of crap that probably shouldnt have been resurrected but being the glutton for punishments that we are.....we do it anyway. Now back tracking a little bit, our old iron that we love so much was never meant to last 64 years (In my case as it's a 49 Chevy AD that I'll be working on but this is applicable to all.) Knowing that the designers of our old stuff never thought in a million years that their equipment they cranked out would be around never thought to make "an old farm truck" fit well from the factory. Let's face it, even the higher end models didnt always fit good; then you take a "old farm truck" and they were happy if the doors shut and latched let alone fit well. Add into all of that that I'm a bit retentive and want a more streamline fit and finish than was originally produced not even taking into account of the years of abuse this old farm truck had to take. The example that we will be looking at today is my 49 Chevy AD. It's classified as a full custom, chopped, sectioned, smoothed etc. Quite honestly the doors fit like crap...they shut and latched but that's it. my door gaps ranged from 3/8" to a 1/4". my goal is a tight 1/8". The cab has been deeply reworked already with the section in addition to the fact that these cabs are small and with all the extra steel in it I'm not worried about it flexing. If your going to be doing this on a fullsized car that's going to flex you may want to open up your gaps a tad. We'll be working on the drivers door today as the passenger door is already done. (we'll get back to that as the driver's door isnt finished but we'll get the story out together to you can see it from start to finish). Here's what we started with. Bolt your door into the hinges, get it where you want it and mark it, youre going to be taking the door off and on so make it easy on ya. As you can see the gaps are all over the map, some are wide, some are tight and some dont even match up to the body line. Once you have the door in the general vicinity that you want look at what the car/truck is telling you. Take your magic marker out and mark out the entire door where it needs material and where it doesnt. as seen below. It aint rocket science .I use T-bar marks everything away from the tail on the T needs filler and at the top of the T does not. NOW AS A SIDEBAR: Most of my issues are with gaps that are too wide not gaps that are too tight. And thats what youll be seeing. BUT in a gap too tight situation youre just going to take twice the material out of the door than you originally need. Now Im sure most know this, but for those that dont the reason for this is when you grind the edge of the door youll end up grinding away the crimped edge that holds the door skin on. You gotta fix that right? Which means that you have to re-clamp the inner flange that you ground off back to the door frame and the skin and weld it all back together then smooth it. Thats where the take out twice the material comes in, that leaves you enough weld on the edge of the door to bond everything back together and still get your gap right. Back to the story after your done marking clean your metal stock as well as the door itself. Im using 3/16 cold rolled steel as my gap filler and Ill tell you why. 3/16 is actually too wide for the door skin .BUT its the perfect height. And there is a way around the thickness as I will show ya. Back tracking just a tad. Dont get hell bent to leather and weld up the entire door all at once. I always start on the B pillar and move my way back. Once I get the B pillar tuned in Ill move to the top of the window. Once I get the window frame tuned in I move to the A pillar (which usually needs the least amount of work.) I always weld up the inside of the door first. Due to the reverse curves on the inside of the door its harder to work with so I flush weld the inside then knock em down before I start working on the front. The curvature of the door edge and the 3/16 cold roll make the most perfect chamfer ever to fill with weld. Seeing as your working with a piece of straight cold rolled I start at the bottom of the door and work to the top. I use the heat from the welding process to curve the cold rolled into position as I go as seen here. As always get good penetration and here is a view from the opposite side as youre welding the inside. Just take it slow and before you know it youll have the B pillar done and this is what it will look like. Now hopping back to how the 3/16 cold rolled is too wide. When you flip the door youll see the discrepancy. Take ye old flap disk and knock it down .easy peasy. This one though I should note that I drag a thin cutting wheel down the joint to give you that chamfer back that was naturally there on the inside of the door. Again, work around welding the outside of the door Maxed out the photo load for this post, continued below.