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*TECH WEEK* how to build a door for your 26-27 model t /28-29 a pickup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by wingedexpress, Sep 7, 2012.

  1. Be patient guys this is my first tech post and may take a few days to finish.
    I'm going to show you how i made extra doors for my 29 model a pickup.
    This is not the only way to make one, just the way i do it. Cheap shop
    built/modified tools and about $100 in material. I know they sell new
    doors but they are expensive and this process can be used to make
    any part of the door and doors of other makes and models.

    When you find a model t coupe or pickup most of the time the doors are gone or junk
    [​IMG]



    Try to find a car/truck to take patterns from ,even a junk door will do
    .cut your metal a couple of inches larger than your pattern.Lay out your
    lines to bead roll.also mark the area that needs a crown to be wheeled.
    I use squares to make a low crown panel,just start in the middle square
    and wheel in one direction then turn the panel and wheel in the opposite
    but stay in that square.next move to the next square and do the same
    ,this time you will also go over the first square.repeat out to the bead
    roll marks but not past them.check your work ,add more if needed.i usually
    make several passes to get the shape .

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    made these patterns to check the crown
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    Last edited: Oct 7, 2012
  2. rust&patina
    Joined: Jan 21, 2007
    Posts: 157

    rust&patina
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice work your doing there... I think most of us who have these or are into 28/29 pickups all know how hard it is to try & find good 28/29 Ford pickup doors... Awsome Job
     
  3. After you get done wheeling you can make your bead rolls. find/make a die that
    matches the bead/swage in the door .In this case i modified a harbor freight
    1/4" step.use some scrap and test and shim as necessary to get the right bead.
    make your rolls but don't try to make the corners with the roller .i will show you
    how to fix the corners next.

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    To fix the corners get a steel dolly and lay under the corner. Next take a
    chisel and a piece of 1/2" square key stock and use them to shape the
    corners working from both sides.

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    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012
  4. Thats all for now ,i will add more tonight after work.
     
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  5. prewarcars4me
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 3,144

    prewarcars4me
    Member

    Love it so far.
     
  6. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,281

    chaddilac
    Member

    Awesome!!!!!!
     
  7. rjgideon
    Joined: Sep 12, 2005
    Posts: 482

    rjgideon
    Member

    Could you create a scaled down version of your pattern on paper and scan it in? That would give the rest of us the same measurements that you used and guys could blow it up at Kinkos if they wanted a full scale copy.

    That would be awesome. I don't know anyone that has a pickup that I could get the measurements from.
     
  8. THE235KID
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,755

    THE235KID
    Member

    Awesome. I have to make doors ans a decklid for my 28 chevy roadster. .... Subscribed.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2012
  9. black 62
    Joined: Jul 12, 2012
    Posts: 1,890

    black 62
    Member
    from arkansas

    did you build your own equipment ? your engineering and execution on this are quite impressive---puts me to thinking i can make my own tri five door skins---thank you for sharing
     
  10. BAILEIGH INC
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,414

    BAILEIGH INC
    Alliance Vendor

  11. monster
    Joined: Feb 1, 2008
    Posts: 208

    monster
    Member

    looks really good so far
     
  12. nailhead terry
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,198

    nailhead terry
    Member

    Good looking job now show us the rest !
     
  13. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,034

    need louvers ?
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  14. waiting impatiently..........
     
  15. CRH
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 549

    CRH
    Member
    from Utah

    So far, this is the best tech thread on the list. Awesome.
     
  16. I have modified most of my stuff. the e-wheel is my frame and harbor freight upper and lower anvils. the bead roller is a harbor freight that i added 8" ,braced up and a 50 to 1 gear box to use my milwaukee 1/2" drill.
     
  17. Sorry about the picture size .i tried to re size some worked some didn't.
    Next step is to make a hammer form to shape the window. you can use any kind of wood or metal to make one. This one is made with pine and oak top.cut and shape to match your part .
    Measure and mark both the metal and the hammer form so you can get the window opening the same. I used the bead rolls and center line as a reference point. leave extra metal in the opening except at the corners they will have the most stretch.This door has shallow corners at the top and deeper at the bottom corners.The bottom corner of the metal will have to be cut more or else it will split, we will fix this later.

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    Place metal strips under your bead rolls so you don't smash them when you clamp down the part. cut out the window hole so you can see your marks and clamp it down. use plenty of clamps you can move them later if needed.
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    The red line is the edge of the hammer form
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    Last edited: Sep 12, 2012
  18. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,281

    chaddilac
    Member

    Show pics of your bead roller... I see a drill attached to it!!! :eek:
     
  19. Pick some good hammers with a head that matches the radius of the corners and a big rubber hammer to work down the straight sides.
    Start next to the hammer form and work your way around and down.The corners will be tough but the straight sides will move easy take your time.You may have some splitting in the corners don't get excited we will fix it later.
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    I forgot to show it but the upper and lower windows have the same radius as the lower door skin.I used wood to clamp it down because it would flex.Starting to look like a door now.
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    Last edited: Sep 8, 2012
  20. A hopped up harbor freight model.added around 8" and braced up ,50 to 1 gear box,3 to 1 on the pullies.lock the drill trigger and uses a sewing machine pedal to control it. Redneck engineering.
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  21. "T'RANTULA"
    Joined: Aug 6, 2011
    Posts: 655

    "T'RANTULA"
    Member
    from Ohio

    I love threads like this. No drama and excellent metal working skills! I cant wait to see the next step! :)
     
  22. The next steps will take more work.We are going to create the double fold at the window.I will use a home made tipping wheel on the bead roller.It is simple just a skate board wheel on the bottom and an upper wheel that looks like a dull pizza cutter.When you run the metal through it it starts the fold and you finish it with a hammer and dolly.You can make curved bends with the tipping wheel.

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    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012
  23. First measure down from the edge of the door you are using for a pattern at the corners. Measure and mark the corners on the new door and draw a line from corner to corner all around.Then start it through the tipping wheel.next use a hammer and dolly to finish the bend up to 90 degrees.

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    Last edited: Sep 8, 2012
  24. This is the slow part. go to the opposite side and mark two lines,first
    about 3/16" up and the next about a 1/4" above the first. Cut the metal
    at the top line.
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    This is to small to use the tipping wheel so you have to start it by hand.
    I use a cresent wrench .put the end at your line and start the bend,go slow
    do a little at a time and go around.When you have it up close to a 90 degree
    bend use the hammer and dolly to bend it over as far as you can.Place the
    edge you just bent on a long thick piece of metal stood on its edge .Take a
    flat piece of metal and place on top and smash it down with a big hammer.
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    Leaves a nice edge when done.
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    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012
  25. I fixed the lower corners by folding a piece of metal on a brake .Next i rolled it over a piece of round stock with a hammer to get the radius and cut a patch to weld in the corner.

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    The upper corners i just trimmed a small piece of metal and put on the back side and welded the edge and a crack i made earlier.
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    Window finished.
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    Last edited: Sep 8, 2012
  26. Thats just what I need to do. Thanks for posting.

    Doug.
     
  27. niceguyede
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 625

    niceguyede
    Member
    from dallas

    sweet! I really enjoy these tech weeks!!
     
  28. Final steps for the door skin.on the back side measure and mark your line to be tipped over.This is the outer edge of the door so make sure it is the right width and height by measuring another door. Run it through the tipping wheel and hammer and dolly the edges up to 90 degrees.
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    Now the once flimsy door skin will be stiff and flat.Measure and trim the edge , this is the part that folds over the inner door frame. Take the paper pattern from the first post and a shrinker and shape the bottom half of the door skin.
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    [/IMG]http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn476/wingedexpress1/door%20stuff/P9030202.jpg[/IMG]
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    The skin is finished.
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    Last edited: Sep 12, 2012
  29. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,012

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    that is awesome,good job
     
  30. That's it for tonight .I will finish the inner part tomorrow night.
     

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