At this time I don't have anything car related that I can wite a tech article about, so I thought......everyone wants or needs a warm garage to work in, right? How about an aticle on building a double barrel wood stove? I hope you enjoy it. How to get the kit: There are several places where you can order your kit online or it can be purchases at Tractor Supply, where they have them in stock at this time of year. I ordered the Vogelzang airtight kit and the kit for adding a 2nd barrel as well. Tools required: Safety glasses, drill, 1/4" bit, 1/2" bit, phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket and ratchet, jig saw with metal cutting blade, level, magnet, sharpie marker and a helping hand. Step 1: First lay out all of the parts and make sure that you have everything you will need Step 2: Position the door from the kit on top of the barrel you have choosen for your firebox. I recommend you position it as high as possible, so that you can leave the larger bung (larger of the two screw in caps on the end of the drum) in the barrel for added outside air source. The outside air source instructions are not covered in this article. Step 3: once you are happy with the location of the door frame, use the sharpie to trace all of the mounting holes. Next, open both doors and trace the inside of each door opening. Step 4: Each opeing of the door frame has an inner lip that protrudes into the barrel. You will need to add an aditional 3/8" or so to the outside of your door trace markings to accommodate the lip. Step 5: Once you increase the size of your trace markings for each door, use your drill to make a 1/2" hole inside each of the traced door opening areas. This will give you a place to start your cuts with the jig saw. Step 6: Use the jig saw to cut out the openings for each door and test fit the door frame on top of the barrel. if it doesn not fit, you will need to make the opeings a little larger until the door frame lays flot on the barrel. Step 7: Once you get the door frame to fit to your satisfaction, remove it and set it aside. You will not need it until you are finished with the rest of the project. Step 8: Next use masking tape too tape all of the edges of your opening, so that you do not get cut when reaching inside of the barrel to attach additional parts. Step 9: Working on a flat area, lay the barrel on its side. Lift one end of the barrel and place a set of legs under it, positioning them where ever you would like. Repeat the step for the other set of legs. Measure from each barrel end to the outside edge of each leg to ensure both sides of the legs are equal distance from the barrel ends. Position the barrel on the legs so that the bottom edge of the top door is level when viewed from the front. Step 10: Use the sharpie and mark the 8 bolt holes in each set of legs. Step 11: Stand the barrel back up on its end and use the 1/4" bit to drill the previously marked holes for your legs. Step 12: Next...and it pays to have a helping hand here, position the legs in place and slide the bolts thru the legs and the barrel. With someone holding the bolts in place, reach into the barrel and start the nuts by hand. Once you have all the nuts started and you are happy with the placement of the legs, tighten up all of the nuts being careful not to over tighten and break the cast iron legs. Step 13: Return the barrel back on its side and stand it on the legs. Step 14: Now place the chimney flue collar with the damper on top of the back side of the barrel and level it. Once you have it level, use the sharpie to mark the bolt holes. Remove this collar and replace it with one that does not have a damper, so that you can now mark the center hole to cut for the flue pipe. Note, the flue collar used to mark the hole is smaller than the hole size needed for the flue collar with the damper. Now, increase the center hole mark by 1/4" to get the appropriate size trace marking. Step 15: Drill all of the 1/4" holes previously marked and using the jig saw cut out the center hole that you previously marked. Now bolt the flue collar with the damper on to the barrel. Step 16: You are now ready to position the upper barrel supports onto the lower barrel. Position the supports much as you did the lower legs. Be careful to place the back support far enough back on the barrel so the support brace does not block the flue pipe that will run between the two barrels. Step 17: Use the sharpie to mark the mounting holes in the upper barrel supports. Remove the supports and drill the eight 1/4" holes. Bolt the supports into place. More steps to come as soon as I can type it up and post.