Thanks to Texabilly71 for letting me hog his driveway, Brickster for his tech that inspired me to do it, and a Reggie for all his patience and help with all my questions! Another thanks to all on shoeboxford.com that are too numerous to list, and Jamco for helping me out in a pinch. After going through many threads, including this excellent HAMB tech install by Brickster http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124380&highlight=volvo steering box and this thread for different places to get the box http://www.shoeboxford.com/members/forum/openthread.cfm?forum=1&ThreadID=9842 I got my Volvo 140 manual box from here for $100 delivered-it does a search of yards country wide-I probably paid a little too much. Fatman says to use a 67-78 Volvo 140 series manual steering box. http://car-part.com/ Fatman has the Volvo manual steering mount here $70-bracket only http://fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=18 and Jamco has a complete kit for $295 for the Volvo 160 power steering box. That includes everything but a splined volvo shaft to weld to your Ford steering shaft, seems like a good deal. The 160 box is bigger though, so it could be a tight fit. http://www.jamcosuspension.com/products_steering.html One of the things you'll need to locate is a nylon locknut like this one to fit the Volvo box, if you're going to use the Ford pitman arm as it's bigger than the Volvo one. Even if you choose to modify the Volvo pitman, you should still consider a new nut, as I've read that the stock one is a single use item. I just took the box into a pro nut and screw store that gave out flyers at the LBC swapmeet, and they took the time to figure this out for me. While you're there, get a few 3/16" diameter roll pins, the kind that are a spiral on the inside. Also take the bolts from your Fatman bracket and get longer bolts since the ones supplied don't fit. COMPARED TO THE STOCKER Other parts you need-left to right-volvo mount from Fatman, 1 x steering column bushing, either of these will work, I found the Jamco to fit easier- the bottom one is from dennis carpenter (PN 51A-3517-A Upper Steering Bushing P. 14, $6 each), the top one from Jamco. You also need either Volvo-volvo steering u joint from Jamco, or the double u joint from Borgueson PN D16N-748R, which is a 3/4" 48 spline to 3/4" smooth($140 from Borgueson) I used the Autozone loan a tool pitman arm and tierod end puller, #27016 and 27022, or buy from Jegs for around $15 each. There's not much to say about the beginning, pages 130-132 of the green bible will be help you here. The smart(fast) way to do this is to start out from square one, and take a sawzall and cut the steering column/shaft right at the steering box here. This will save you a ton of grief associated with taking the whole steering box apart to get the steering column out. You need to cut the column anyway to fit the new volvo box, this is a good way to kill two birds with one stone. Now just disconnect the column from the dash and pull the whole thing out, steering wheel and all. Saves you from removing the steering wheel, too. I didn't know this at the time, so I went the green bible route and removed the steering wheel, removed the column, then disassebled the steering box and removed the steering shaft through the front of the car. Do the smart thing, make the cut and save yourself the trouble. I should also mention that I soaked all the bolts in PB blaster, then vibrated them with an air chisel pressed against some angle iron that I leaned on the nut. I got that from the HAMB I think. I believe it helped, as none of them were really any problem at all to remove. Maybe my suspension has just been apart more recently than some and that's why it was easier, I don't know. I'm not complaining. Also, you could do this without air tools, but it sure wouldn't be easy. Regardless, here's some pics of the long way: WHEEL REMOVED STEERING COLUMN REMOVED REMOVING TIEROD FROM PITMAN USED AN IMPACT ON THE PITMAN ARM/STEERING BOX NUT REMOVED THE PITMAN WHILE ON THE CAR-YOU CAN DO THIS ON A BENCH IF YOU WERE WISE ENOUGH TO CUT THE SHAFT- PS THE RATCHET DIDN'T DO IT, I ENDED UP USING THE IMPACT AND IT MADE SHORT WORK OF GETTING THE PITMAN OFF THE KEYS TO SUCCESS! NOW I CAN UNBOLT THIS DROP THIS AND YOU GET THIS-TO BE REMOVED THROUGH THE FRONT, UNLESS YOU HACK UP THE FIREWALL NOW REMOVE THESE 3 BOLTS AND TAKE OUT THE BOX-DOUBLE CHECK THE TOP BRACKET TO MAKE SURE IT ISN'T CRACKED OR WEAKENED, AS THIS IS COMMON There! Now do you see why I said to just cut the shaft?!? plus you'll also have a box that's all together and ready to sell, instead of one in pieces that you gotta take the time to put back together. Less messy, too! Now file the hell out of those 4 flat locating splines in the Ford pitman arm if that's the way you choose to go. Some people say it isn't safe, some say it is, I know people that have run their box this way for many years without problem. I resigned from the debating team so if using the volvo pitman works for you, all the better. I've heard of people cutting it at the first hole, heating it with a torch and bending it to match the stock ford arm, then you can either use a taper to make the hole match the ford tie rod end or heat it red hot and just bang it over the tie rod end till it fits. Not recommending, just for completeness I'm including the info. Here's the Ford pitman after some grinding. I used a drill press and an aggressive US made bit I got at a swap meet, not sure what it's called but it's got kind of a diamond cutting pattern on it and it's cylindrical and flat on the tip. Used for grinding welds and whatnot. I *don't* necessarily recommend this, I'm sure there's way better/faster ways with a die grinder or what have you. I was just making do, and it took a while . I tried just using a hand file, and that got me *nowhere*, I really don't suggest that! Now something they don't tell you is that even though you've filed the splines out, it doesn't engage the Volvo shaft very far since the Ford isn't tapered. Here's how it looks: All is not lost, however. What I did is put the box on the bench, heated up the arm with propane, and used a big socket as a driver. I tried to position it so that it had give when I hit it, to protect the box from damage. I'm sure there's a better way to do this, this is just what I did. and the result is this: Quite a difference! I slathered the pitman/threads in red loctite after cleaning them up a bit with a very small file, and used the impact on the nut, getting this.