so my buddy Dan Turner picked himself up a decent 51 Chevy project truck the other day. it was poorly subframed with a 73 Camaro subframe and sat a mile in the air. well since Dan likes em low (prolly why we get along so well ) i told him the only good way to go about it was to swap the F'ed up stock frame for an S10 unit. after i made a couple phone calls i located him a nice cherry S10 shortbed frame from my old pal Studeboy. this particular frame had already been blasted and primed so Dan was real excited about it and more than happy to shell over a hundred clams for it. well Dan does'nt intend to chop this one (i think he is still burned out from choppin his 54 Ford truck) so shortening the bed of the 51 to fit the shortbox S-dime frame was'nt gonna happen (in Dan's eyes it would have thrown the proportions off to have a stock roof and shortened bed and i agree.) so we tossed around ideas of how to go about lengthening the frame to fit the 51's wheelbase. as some of you may know a regular cab S10 LONG bed frame is just about the right wheelbase for this conversion but as you may also know GM did'nt make near as many long bed S-trucks as it did short bed versions. so what is a boy to do??? well like i said we were tossing around different ideas when Dan had an epiphany. why not move the rear suspension BACK on the frame?? we looked it over and discussed the 'whys' and 'why nots', took some measurements and decided that it could be done and would be a much better alternative to adding a section of channel into the length of the frame. well, ole Dan is a thinker and is'nt one to just start cutting shit apart till he's THUROUGHLY thought it over and slept on it a night or two and thats just what he did here. i immediately thought it was a wonderfuly clever plan and told him to call me when he decided to start cutting cause i wanted to get it all on film (or at least the little piece of plastic that has since replaced traditional film). so this morning he calls. "it's nice outside and i'm gonna get started". anticipating this i had borrowed my mom's digital camera (it's alot better than mine) so i got my shit together and got over to Dan's as quick as i could. he was damn near half done by the time i got there. the following pictures and captions tell the tale of how he moved the S10 rear suspension back 8 inches on the frame. this is the part where you actually need to pay attention: the difference in wheelbase is 8" so after leveling the frame on some stands and rolling the rearend and springs out from under the truck a framing square is used to mark the frame where the center of the front spring eye lines up to it. then you simply measure back 8" and make another line parallel to the first. this is where you want the center of the front spring eye to line up when your done. before you can move the front spring eye hanger you will have to torch, grind or otherwise remove the heads of the rivets that are used to hold the hanger on from the factory. once that is done you can move the hanger back, clamp it in place and make damn sure it's in the right spot before you weld it in place. you may decide you don't want to weld the hangers in place. if that is the case ou can also drill new holes in the frame that corrospond with the rivet holes in the hanger and use grade 8 bolts to attach the hanger to the frame. another thing to keep in mind is that you may have to take a grinder to the head of the rear most rivet for the gas tank crossmember on the bottom flange of the frame so the spring hanger will sit flat against the bottom of the frame. you clever viewers may have noticed that by sliding this hanger back (and consequently up) on the frame it will place the front spring eye higher up on the frame effectively lowering the rear suspension and slightly altering the pinion angle. the total difference in height ends up being 1 3/4" which we were not concerned with concidering this truck will probably end up with lowering blocks to lower it even further anyways. also, since the stock 2wd S-10 rearend is too narrow for this application it is being replaced with a Ford 9" which will have new perches welded to it at the appropriate angle. if you were going to use, say, the wider S10 4wd rearend and you were concerned with the pinion angle change you could very easily buy shims from a suspension shop (they are made in varying degrees) to adjust the pinion angle to your liking. now that that is done it's on to the rear shackle hanger: you can see in the pic how the S-10 has a bushing pressed into a piece that is welded right into the inside of the frame so what we decided to do was to cut off the rear of the frame just in front of this piece (which is 8" from the rear of the frame rail) and switch them from one side to the other, in turn moving the rear shackle position back the required 8". before you weld the frame ends to the opposite sides of the frame you need to reweld the edge of the shackle bushing boss where you cut through it while removing the end of the rail. after you weld it you'll need to grind it flat cause you'll be welding on to that end aswell. more on this later. a piece of angle iron clamped to the bottom of the frame and a straight edge on the verticle edge made sure that the piece ended up square and in line with the rest of the frame. Dan then welded the ends of the frame back on inside and out. if your a nervous Nelly and think it needs to be stronger (we did'nt) you can grind the weld down on the outside of the rail and weld a "diamond" over the seam to strengthen it. or instead of that you could simply box the inside of the rail in that section making the rear of the frame VERY strong. with that done all your suspension mounting points have been succesfully moved rearward the required 8 inches. BUT WAIT! your not done yet. you see the shortbox S-truck frame is about a foot short of reaching the rear mount of the stock length 51 Chevy bed. whats a boy to do??? well Dan (a far cry from being a boy and 60 years old) dug through his pile of "good junk" and came out with a section of Ford van frame rail left over from when he made is chopped and louvered 54 Ford into a flat bed dually (for haulin stuff to the swap meets ) . the Van rail was about 1 3/8" too tall so Dan simply "sectioned" the piece of C-channel, cut two pieces at 12" long each, welded them together and then welded them to the rear of the frame and VIOLA! now the frame is long enough to catch the rear most mounts of the 51's box. he still needed to do some trimming on the flange but that'll have to wait till the sun comes up tommarow. nevertheless, i think you get the gist of it. by the way. if your one of those nervous types i mentioned earlier or you simply prefer to OVERbuild when it comes to structural stuff (nothin wrong with that... to a point) NOW would actually be a good time to box the inside of the frame at the rear. you could go with one boxing plate (on each side) from the rear cross member all the way to the rear of the frame . you will have to make a small cut out around the shackle bushing but it should be pretty straight forward and simple otherwise. another thing worth mentioning: as of the last time we talked about it Dan intends to use the stock S-10 rear shock mounts. at least the uppers but he will also have to move them rearward aswell. because of the location of the stock rear crossmember he won't be able to go back the full 8" but he should be able to get about 6" and that should be plenty. the rear of the upper shock mount will likely get trimmed off and that end will get welded to the rear crossmember. this whole thing took Dan less than 4 hours to complete and a good majority of that was "thinkin time". not bad concidering i kept getting in his way to take pictures.