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Tail light glue

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 46international, Nov 17, 2010.

  1. 46international
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    46international
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    I was wanting to do some custom tail light mods to my wife's OT car. I will have to cut them apart and reglue when done, What type of glue would "melt" the plastic as it glues it together. like the old testers model glue did with the car models we used to build. I did a search but did not really find an answer.
  2. Homemade44
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    Homemade44 Member

  3. sunsetdart
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    sunsetdart Member

    Not sure when you say cut them apart and reglue. If you are talking about a "butt joint" when gluing, you may want to use a super glue cause it will bond two smooth surfaces. Same goes for a smooth lap joint surface.
  4. Blue One
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    Blue One
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    Cutting them apart is the easy part. What works best to put them back together is a good quality 2 part epoxy.

    Not too likely you will find a glue that will melt the plastic together.

    The epoxy will do the trick and when dried will make a waterproof seal.
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  5. Traditions Racing
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    Traditions Racing Member

    A lot of glues will " cloud " the plastic, I would go to the junk yard and get some practice pieces for each glue or epoxy before you try it on the actual parts, just sayin, BDM
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2010
  6. Ebbsspeed
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    Ebbsspeed
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    I think he means "soften" instead of "melt". I haven't built a model car for years, but way back in the 60's the stuff we called airplane glue would soften the plastic surface for a couple of minutes. When you stuck two pieces of plastic together with the stuff, it was STUCK. If it ever broke, it was the plastic that broke and not the glue bond.

    If you've ever done any plumbing with PVC and PVC cement, you know what I'm talking about.
  7. 57ford/60thunderbird
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    57ford/60thunderbird Member

    i wouldnt use testers not the same old stuff its now non-toxic enviro friendly junk its lucky to glue a model together now a days

    i would use a 2 part appoxy as was mentioned you can get clear from hobby shops i got mine from hobby town usa expensive but it comes in like 6 OZ bottles and drys quick and strong and you'll have plenty left over
  8. Cymro
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    Cymro Member

    I ve used a product called EMA Plastic Weld to fix broken plastic lenses, to join acrylic sheet, and even to repair broken plastic spectacle frames for my students The Stuff will join Styrene,Butyrate,ABS,Acrylic(Lucite or Plexiglas), Perspex to each other or in any combination, (all on the label), One student even used it to make a custom fish tank to fit in a room divider he was making.

    It appears to be more of a solvent than a traditional glue. The hazard warning label on the bottle reads Dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride).

    Available from EMA model supplies Ltd, Unit 2, Shepperton Business Park, Goovett Avenue, Shepperton, England, TW17 8BA.

    Sorry, no other contact detail to hand

    until nowhttp://www.ema-models.co.uk/products/04302-liquid-solvent-cement-ml.html

    There must be an US equivalent.
  9. Cymro
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    Cymro Member

    Liquid Solvent Cement (500ml)

    [​IMG]
    Known to experienced model makers as EMA Plasweld, this solvent sticks all normal model making plastics, i.e. perspex, ABS, butyrate, styrene, acrylic etc.
    It has a long shelf life, is fast acting (grabs in seconds), and has a water-like consistency so it is best used by holding or clamping the surfaces together and running a loaded brush or applicator along the length of the joint (solvent will be drawn into the joint by capillary action). A second application can be made if required, but is not normally necessary.
    When joining dissimilar plastics, i.e. styrene to butyrate, the hardest material (in this case butyrate) should have the joint surface softened, by giving a light coat of solvent, prior to holding the surfaces together. Then proceed as normal.
    PlasWeld should be used in a well ventilated area and contact with skin or eyes should be avoided (wash well with water if this occurs). Please note that we sell a variety of applicators and dispensers that will prove helpful.
    Also available in 57ml bottles (see code PPC-2P).
    PLEASE NOTE: THIS PRODUCT CANNOT BE SHIPPED OUTSIDE THE U.K
    Code: PPC-2
    Price: £6.00
    [​IMG]
    This product can be found on our Adhesives page, along with similar products that may be of interest to you.


    Copyright © 2005 E.M.A Model Supplies Limited
    [​IMG]

    This is it ! But no shipment overseas .
    <SCRIPT type=text/javascript>closeCart();</SCRIPT>
  10. 325w
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    325w
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    Some sign makers that do work with plastics have a clear glue. Maybe a sign makers store.
  11. tommy
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    tommy Member

    I customized my tail lights by super gluing some 56 Chevy tail light bullets to my 56 Ford lenses. Will they hold up? Damn if I know but they seem to be holding real well so far. I tried to knock it off but I couldn't.
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2010
  12. stealthcruiser
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    stealthcruiser Member

    Practice on some scraps, of the material in question, with some acetone.
  13. 46international
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    46international
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    Thanks for the help with this...I hate to post too many times on this topc, OT car and all. The car in question is a '09 Fusion and I can't take the "tunner" looking tail lights any more. What I want, no need to do is, cut the clear lens off of the red lens under it. Then paint that crappy looking "chrome" that goes around the light. I will then need to reinstall the clear lens.
    I was not thinking about clouding the clear lens, so the warnings about that is good thought. i was just wanting to make sure it does not leak or come apart.
    I came accross something on another site or in my search on the H.A.M.B. about heating the assy. in the oven and that will soften the glue so you can pry apart the light. Anyone done this?
  14. scrubba
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    scrubba Member

    Im in the exibit business and I use plastics, A LOT. You may want to try usinng a old drafting ruler pen and fill it with a product called Tenax. It's a liquid styerene compatable glue that evaporates quickly and gives a very strong joint after about a minute . A lot of model builders just use plain old Acetone too. scrubba
  15. Cymro
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    Cymro Member

  16. tb33anda3rd
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    tb33anda3rd Member
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    be careful trying to soften the glue. a lot of modern plastic anything, is sonic welded.
  17. 19Fordy
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    19Fordy Member

  18. 61 chevy
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    61 chevy Member

    goop in a blue tube, strong glue at hardware store
  19. gmc1941
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    Palatine, Il

    gmc1941 Member

    I've been able to purchase MEK at Home Depot with in the last year. In the paint dept.
  20. 1Cheesecake
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    1Cheesecake
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    Ricers have been doing it for years...put it in the oven a low heat to soften the glue...
    use a plastic putty knife to help separate the pieces
    take your time and don't rush it..last thing you want to do is break the plastic...
    when your ready to put it all back together clean off the glue residue and then use clear silicone to seal it back up....

    I'm sure if you search on a "Pimp my Ride" website there will be detailed instructions...and maybe even pictures...
    Be careful when your there...they might talk you into installing a "Fart Can" exhaust on the Fusion....

    CC
  21. spot
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    spot Member

    MEK works extremely well. I used to be a fabricator for museum displays and used MEK to bond acrylic panels together. Creates a clear nearly invisible joint if you have the surfaces perfectly flat.. It will not fill voids. you have to have the to surfaces matched. To get a joint to fit you almost need a surface planer or a lot of patience.
  22. terryr
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    earth

    terryr Member

    I think the newer lenses come apart, as the previous poster said.

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