Projects SURVIVOR;Working on my hotrod 28A from 1959,rebuild

Cool pic Dana, but I was thinking it was taken last week JW

 

Cool, I'm watching.

 

Dana, it probably has something to do with all of those bottles you are holding there, along with a couple of double cheesebugers or something like that.

 

Got it up an running now with the fresh rebuilt Thunderbird Y-V8,my buddy Mike Cobb came over an gave hand,so all want pretty smooth. Looking forword to getting my 4x2 set up done ,so can try that out soon,for now doing all brake-in with the 4bbl

 

That looks ever so sharp, looking forward to the induction update. JW

 

Looks good Dana, waiting patiently for report on the new 4X2 setup.

 

Made a run with our group to our fav. pizza place with the new rebuilt "Y"block,temp n oil great,sounds much nicer now too. Had the top up,those are strom clouds off a ways,but we didn't get wet,it passed on by.

 

Great pic! love it.

 

you are lucky you can drive your car, we still have snow melting on the sides of the road. Think it will be about another week before I can get my car out,

On your intake hold down bolts, did you just use chrome acorn nuts on studs? looks great, now I have another thing to do on mine.

 

Nice photo Dana, I look forward to doing that with my RPU.....when its done. JW

 

Had a bad day,I never broke a crankshaft before,built lots of these "Y"s over the years for racing way back,was coming home from a car show sunday afternoon that was at Good Shepherd Chruch,started vibs ,oil PSI droped to near zero,got out looked but no holes or leaks,so limped on home and pulled it out monday,will take it apart this week. Time to hunt for some more old frozen up "Y-block v8"s for parts,292 or 312s in the $50 to $100 bracket. Looking at mains on my other extra crank is not good ether from spair old motor I just tookapart too check. Bummer

 

Crap happens and when you least expect it, good thing you were able to limp it home though.

 

That is some bad luck Dana, would like to see a close up pic of the offending break. JW

 

Well that sure sucks. All that work getting her all nice and freshened up and she quits on you .just like a woman LOL.

 

Dana, are the Y Block cranks forged steel or iron? Very interested in the cause of this. JW

 

I have steel cranks 292',still haven't fig out this,but today I pulled it,bearings really gone on rearmain#5 and next to it#4main,all rods too my amazmint are not looking very bad for what was going on. I was expecting two part crankshaft at this point,seeing main#1 ,#2 n #3 all looking fair,but only #4,#5 crap-O.
So I lifted crank out today,but it came out as one peace?.. To check I stand it on end an hit with my little hammer,it sounded a bit dull n was a test thing my Dad showed me.. It's at this point I pulled a older Y apart too,an stand its crank up,do same hammer test=clean nice ring,not dull=got to be crack in bad bearing crank to sound that way,even though I can't see one anywere. I'm going to try also checking bad one ,plus this last one that rings nice for how strait they are. Then deside were to go next,I know I need to find some more old Y's,cuz I do like them. There is a Mustang 5.0{302]v8 in the corner,,not wanting to do that at all,my old gal has always had a "Y" in it.

 

Dana, the same test I learned, in order to detect a crack in a forged crank.
Recall that it should ring, well. You saw oil pressure drop. Ya still managed to get home.
Hopefully the spare crank will serve?

 

a forged steel crank will have a ring to it when hit w/a hammer. a cast steel crank will "clunk" when hit w/ a hammer. i hope that helps

 

There both steel with same numbers,but the one sounds sick to me,let ya know later when I get to check for how strait they are,for now I'm guessing.

 

Good luck with getting it sorted and with minimal fuss n bother. JW

 

Sounds like a long term romance....great story

 

Straight...as in dire! If you set up the block w/proper size bearing clearances, I wondered if you might
lube the crank (the preferred one) and lay it in place, torque the end caps, then each of the remaining ones?
A spin would indicate < > drag at each cap tightened.

 

good luck. at least your sticking to your y block and not a small block chevy. good for you

 

Is good idea for anyone,I do this every time I put a crank in as SOP on all builds,for this old crank though the dialindcaker shows .003 in center=not bad there for old as is,but something going on that is not visible. Its too screwed up anyway to fix this crank,nor would I even if it was not eat-up so badly. Moving on to find better ford v8 292 crank

 

We'll be watching! With the HAMB crew you're likely to find out what "also" fits the older SBF's.
Quote from ~ 1966: That motor turns over harder than a 292 with 312 pistons!

 

Found a crankshaft near by n got it,but its castiron 292 n 20/20,not what I really like,but bettter then nothing an can get me going again in a month or so,if no better shows its self,hunt hunt for more old Y's

 

Good to see the light at the end of the tunnel is still glowing JW

 

Dana, You Old Stud Muffin, Hanging with all those Young Ladies has done bent Your Crankshaft LOL Jeff

 

AWESOME THREAD , AWESOME CAR

 

More checking,had bad crank n other steelcrank magnafluxed,both have cracks=junk,good thing didn't try it.,so extra old castiron 20/20under Y292 maybe best I come up with so far,I'll keep looking a week or so before trying to build another Y. This next motor got to stay together,my old butt is busted the piggy bank on this.