I just picked up my first hot rod, a 28 Ford on a Pinkees 32 frame. I'm learning as I go, and have a question about split wishbones. I've been reading through the posts on here and other forums, and can't seem to find the answer to my question. The wishbone is attached to the front axle with a bolt and nut, however I've noticed that each of the nuts on both sides are loose. I'm curious if the bolt should've been drilled, and cotter pin used, or should I just tighten the nuts back down? If so how much do i torque em? THANKS!
I've never seen it done like that and kinda hard to tell from the pictures what is what. But there is generally a perch pin in there that has to be an exact fit so that the axle can't move around. The pin is tapered and it gets torqued VERY tight. Pull out that "bolt" and shoot us a picture of it in it's entirety. Don
A bolt and a nut? You need a perch bolt which has a taper to fit in the top of the bone and a castle nut with a coter pin,,and yes it needs to be tight. HRP
Normally, there is a spring perch in that hole that the front spring mounts to, but it looks like yours is set up suicide, with the spring mounted behind. Mine on my rpu is setup that way and I use one of these: Does yours have the same profile as this one ? It should, maybe they just make it with a nut on top for some unknown reason. If it does look like this, yes, torque the hell out of it and put some antiseize on the entire surface so you can get it back out some day. They freeze down in that bore when water gets in sometimes. Don
It's setup with only a monoleaf up front. I'll try to get some better pictures, but i believe the picture you posted is what i'm working with (minus those domed caps).
Oh, ok. You have exactly what HRP and I posted. Just put an open end wrench on the top part to hold it and a socket on the bottom and torque it down really tight. As I mentioned, coat the whole pin with antiseize or a good wheel bearing grease first to keep it from rusting in the bore. You are good to go. Don
Looks like you may need a large washer at the spherical rod end to prevent the rod end pulling over the bolt head in case of the rod end insert failure. Dandy car!
Shocks… What shocks? It only has a mono leaf up front…which we're contemplating swapping out for a regular reverse eye spring.
Looks like it might have friction shocks connected by the bolt through the split bone?? Can see a chromed thing on the chassis rail which is probably the shock?? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The top "knuckles" on your wishbones are thicker than those on the batwings that your pins are typically used with. Check to make sure that the threaded portion of the pins stick out of the bottom knuckles far enough to fully engage the nylon locking ring on the nuts you have. If they are too short you have a couple of options. You can mill the top knuckle and deepen the 60 degree taper with a cutter. Or, you can try a split nut, one that is half the thickness of the regular nylock. SoCal Speed Shop sells a full sized nylock with the taper cut into it. Type C. http://www.est1946.com/perchnutsandbungs.aspx I would put a fine coat of anti seize on the pin shaft and go a little heavier on the threads Torque to 100-110 ft pounds.
Apart from other things, it looks like there is not enough thread on the perch bolt to engage on the nyloc that is there now. Those pictures ask too many questions. Pull it apart and show us what you've got.
Thank you for the advice. I had the same concern about the threads not sticking through enough. If torquing down doesn't secure the locking ring I'll check out those other options.
It has chrome friction shocks attached to the frame rails right behind and below the leaf spring. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Measure the axle and find out if you have a 2" or 2 1/4" thick axle. If you have a 2" axle I would hunt down some '32-'36 perch pins ('35-'36 being the cheapest) and if you have a 2 1/4" axle find a set of '37-'48 or Model A perch pins. Your going to cut the tops off anyhow, make sure to get the stock nut for the bottom too. This way you'll have forged factory Ford pieces and a cotter pin hole.
First I would like to say what a COOL roadster........Period !! In the your 1st pic I noticed you steering arms angle in, with the tie rod out front they MUST face out to achieve correct Ackerman. JW
What size(s) are the wheels and tires, and are there adapters or spacers between the wheels and drums?
Cool roadster! Congrats. If there aren't enough threads on the pin, you can swap out the nut as others have said, or, you can drill through the nut and pin and insert a cotter pin. I like making due with what's on hand. Looks like you do have shocks; friction type, attached to the bones. Slick setup.
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