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SDRA Dragster For The Coast Build Thread

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by Old28, Jun 30, 2011.

  1. old sparks
    Joined:
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    Location:
    Jamestown Cal.

    old sparks Member

    How tite do you guys spin these things any way. I was thinking along the lines of 5000 rpm with a 3:50 gearset.
  2. Old28
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    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    old sparks -- Dan, I replyed to your PM. You should be good at 5000-5500 with a 3.50 gearset. I am running a 3.70 in my current build.
  3. bobw
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    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

  4. Old28
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    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    bobw -- Bob, we know from past replys on my thread that Joe turns that slant 6 a bit harder than the average guy, but he runs some better non stock rods also.:rolleyes: What RPM & rear gear do you run?

    This is great, I never thought I would have this much action on the thread with my motor apart and waiting for new cam. I love it, that's what a thread is all about.:)
  5. bobw
    Joined:
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    1,857
    Location:
    Stillwater,MN

    bobw Member

    I have a 3.70 gear and 27.25" tire. I plan on 5,000rpm maximum. All stock bottom end.

    That will give me 109 mph which is probably faster than it will go with my meager horsepower. With the $100 bone stock Craigslist engine with 2 one barrels and individual exhaust pipes and 4 speed it went 91 mph. An 18 mph gain with my mildly modified engine would be quite an achievement.

    I just ran a calculator using 175 honest horsepower and 1,700 lbs. Came out with 12.40's at 107 mph. So, it looks like I'm ok.

    I really like Joe's ride along videos. They are a good motivator for me.
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2012
  6. Old28
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    Old28 Member

    bobw -- Bob, I think 20 MPH gain is very do able. With the work you have done to the head, correct headers, improvements to your fabricated intake, new carb setup and the shift kit in the trans I think you are going to be surprised. When you going to be able to run it again? Did you ever run the car with the automatic and the stock motor?

    Ya, 12.40 @ 107, now that's a fun run. Those clamp on Pro Video cameras are great, maybe later when this motor build stuff slows down.
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2012
  7. P-Dog
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    Location:
    Cotopaxi, CO

    P-Dog Member

    Old28,

    I think you would be some what less than impressed if you were to take a tour of my little 300 sq. ft. shop.
    Most things in my little shop are resurrected stuff from a WW2 aircraft plant in Pennsylvania and really don't qualify as anything more than hand tools.
    The two things I can not do with out are my antique TIG machine and my 4" angle grinder.

    You're are more than welcome to come visit any time you find yourself hopelessly lost in the Colorado high country, you'll be close to my place,
    P-Dog......
  8. mudflap261
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2005
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    588
    Location:
    tulsa

    mudflap261 Member

    now you know why MR JOE HAMBY won the first ever SDRA most improved car of the year award .HE earned it and thats fact the slant /6 screams
  9. Old28
    Joined:
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    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    P-Dog -- OK, so you are hording the good stuff off site. You still have all those years of experience as a machinist to fall back on. :D

    mudflap261 -- Larry, You are right on that, Joe's slant 6 is a very strong runner and as bobw said it looked like 6000 - 6500 RPM is a normal solid run. Nice Joe.;)
  10. Old28
    Joined:
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    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    OK I have a few questions about multi carb setups. I need input from one and all.:confused:

    I would like to run two 94's on the 194 motor and I want to make sure I set them up right the first time.

    Do you run the front carb with the normal choke and idle circuit and the back one as a dumper only with no choke or idle circuit?

    Second way is to run both carbs with their idle circuit and straight link the two carbs so they open at the same time?

    Speedway has primary & secondary modified bases that setup a 2x2 or 3x2 carb for a single idle carb and a secondary dumper of a progressive linkage setup. A little pricey.

    WHAT"S SAY ALL OUT THERE:confused::confused::confused:

    I would like to stay with the multi carb setup if I can.
  11. P-Dog
    Joined:
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    Cotopaxi, CO

    P-Dog Member

    Old28,

    I have 3 of Speedy Bills primary carbys on my 250 six banger, three separate heated manifolds with no balance tube, to be added later if needed. You probably wouldn't need heated manifolds but I'm not bright enough to stay home when it's freezing cold out.

    Hope this helps,
    P-Dog......
  12. 64 DODGE 440
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    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Back in the '60s I ran a pair of 97s on a flathead on the street. Just ran both carbs with idle circuits and linkage so they opened together. As far as I can remember after nearly fifty years, the accelerator pumps had two connections and I ran them for maximum squirt. Ran great and was very drivable.

    You can make it as complicated as you want, but remember, it's a drag car and will primarily run either open throttle or closed. Simple is good
  13. Old28
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    Old28 Member

    P-Dog -- Are you running all three on a straight linkage or a progressive?
    How did you balance the three primary's ( with a speedway vac unit they sell for $25?

    No manifold heat needed in Bakersfield, it is "very nice to very hot" most of the race season.

    64 DODGE 440 -- Tom, I have run 3x2 94's on the street, but they were setup like factory tri power with a primary that had the choke and idle circuit and the two end carbs were true dumpers with the idle circuit blocked. They ran great with progressive linkage.

    I have never ran multi carb 2bl on a drag motor and I am not sure how well two full primary carbs will work with a straight linkage between them.
  14. mudflap261
    Joined:
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    Location:
    tulsa

    mudflap261 Member

    TOM the only time your are going to be in the idle circuit is warming it up or going to the stageing lanes, when you bring it up against the converter you will be out of the idle circuit just bolt them and go for it
  15. P-Dog
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    Cotopaxi, CO

    P-Dog Member

    Old28,

    Straight linkage, each carby feeds only 2 cylinders.
    I use a piece of hose stuffed inside the carby air horn, listen to the sound and adjust all 3 carbys to the same sound at idle. Hope it doesn't back fire!
    Pretty old school but it works and only costs about 36 cents a foot.
    Great for cleaning out ear wax too.

    P-Dog......
  16. Old28
    Joined:
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    Old28 Member

    mudflap261 - larry, I know what your saying, but it is still a learning lession with multi carbs, I've been running injectors for the past 20 years, ain't got much experence with old carbs.:eek:

    P-Dog - That is a very old school way of setting the carbs, but it works. My two 94's will be feeding a 2x2 adapter then into the offy 4bl intake or the modified stock intake. I think if I get the carbs right I should be able to run a stright linkage between the two.
  17. injected27
    Joined:
    May 2, 2012
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    Location:
    Taylorsville Georgia

    injected27 Member

    Hello I am new here. I have been reading ya'll build threads for the last couple months. I hate to get off topic but I was wondering what the measurement between your frame rails is ? Getting parts up trying to make this a summer project for me and my 11 year old daught er to work on. She is only learning how to spend money jr drag racing. Thanks for any help.
  18. P-Dog
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    Cotopaxi, CO

    P-Dog Member

    Injected:

    My T chassis is 24" at the front and 29" at the back, that's just what seemed to work well with my collection of parts. Just remember to leave enough room for a starter on the side of the block and you should be okay with the rest.

    P-Dog.......
  19. Old28
    Joined:
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    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    injected27 - Welcome to the group and it's great to see a family racing.

    I am not a small guy (6' @ 275) and this frame fit me fine.

    Car WB is 127"
    Inside frame front is 16.5"
    Inside frame back is 23.5"
    Inside frame firewall is 21"

    Driver cage area is 48" firewall to back of seat

    Any other information you need just send me a PM (private message) and I will get back to you ASAP. Tom
  20. injected27
    Joined:
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    Location:
    Taylorsville Georgia

    injected27 Member

    Thanks Guys gives me a starting point. I have only seen these cars on the net. I have not seen any in person. Once again sorry for jumping in on your post just trying to get this thing off the ground.
  21. Old28
    Joined:
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    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    injected27 - Jason, I replyed to your PM, check it out. No problem posting questions on my build thread, I don't run that tight a thread and like to talk racing with anyone that wants too.;)

    Like I said in the PM, you need to start a build thread so you can get the questions out to all the HAMBster's out there so you get back a lot of ideas. The only catch is we like a lot of pictures.:D
  22. Old28
    Joined:
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    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    Well I got the motor back together, all the parts are in place. Put some oil in pan and primed the oil system with my drill and got 45# on the good oil gauge that (64 DODGE 440) passed my way. Filled the rear 8.8 trackion lock with fluid. Put in a set of new plugs.

    Got my Optima Battery in and wired today and was able to test fuel pump, electric fan & water pump motor, all worked fine. With some power I was able to turn motor over and test the starter.

    The two rebuilt 94's should be done first of next week and once I have then I can build the linkage and finish the throttle cable. Need to get fluid in the PG & converter in the morning.

    Lots of small details, but I can see track time a coming.;)

    No real picture work for now and it was 98 degrees today with 99 set for Thur/Fri. It is looking like a long hot summer.:eek:
  23. injected27
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    injected27 Member

    Great news maybe you will be at it soon.;)
  24. Old28
    Joined:
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    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    Well the carbs, linkage and fuel lines are done. I need to get a vacuum source for the PG so if I want to leave in in high gear it can shift by it's self. Some times it works better if bracket racing (more consistent ET) even tho you give up some 60' time.

    Hope to fire motor later this week. :eek:

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  25. Old6rodder
    Joined:
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    Old6rodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. HA/GR owners group

    Fired yet? (pant, pant) :D
  26. Old28
    Joined:
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    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    Ya Dick, I tried to fire the motor yesterday and must have missed a hole I bored through in the heat chamber as I had gas running out the bottom of the intake. I am removing the intake so I can epoxy the bottom heat chamber. Hope to have it back on Tue & try again.:rolleyes:

    No paint this year, just letters & numbers on alum panels. Will paint it during the off season if I don't put the cash in a new "BIGGER INCH" motor to run with the 300" Fords & Chevy's.:eek:

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  27. Old28
    Joined:
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    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    Well I had some success today and was able to fire the motor and break in the cam & lifters. Sounds real nice for a little 194" motor.;) Don't have any Video stuff and can not figure how to get phone video on to my computer.

    All the run news is not great:eek: I have a water leak in one of the small freeze plugs in the head. Just a small drip now, Has anyone used Bars Leak to try to seal one up or will I have to remove the plug and replace with a new one. :confused::confused:

    I can get to all three small plugs by removing the intake & exhaust manifolds without removing the head again.:mad: I have never replaced these small plugs in the head, any advice:confused::confused:
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  28. P-Dog
    Joined:
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    Location:
    Cotopaxi, CO

    P-Dog Member

    Old28,

    I'd replace the plugs now instead of later.
    In all the years I worked in an auto machine shop I never once saw any head plugs replaced but all the block plugs are always replaced at rebuild time. Your plugs could be rusted paper thin, a blow out at speed could put you right on your lid, I wouldn't chance it.
    Real cheap insurance, fix the problem don't just put a band-aid on it.

    My two pence,
    P-Dog........
  29. 64 DODGE 440
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    so cal

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As P-Dog says...Replace them all now while you are starting out. Don't know about it "putting you on your lid", but a face full of hot water wouldn't be much fun at the top end of the strip. Get good plugs, (I prefer brass), clean the holes in the head out well and put a little Permatex around the edges when you install them, it makes the process a bit messy, but I like the insurance.

    Great you got it running. It won't be long now. :D
  30. Old28
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2009
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    994
    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA

    Old28 Member

    P-Dog & 64 DODGE 440

    I'm with you guys. I re-fired the motor this morning and got some temp in the water again. The plugs are OEM steel and there is a hole in the front one, it is very thin as I was able to open the hole with a punch.

    I will get the intake/exhaust manifolds off this weekend and maybe get the new brass plugs installed. I have never removed these small head plugs before. Can you drive them into the water jacket to get them lose and then turn them and work them out???????:confused:

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