Hello All, I have a set of slightly used 50 year old sealed beam headlights. I know they worked last time I checked. I have read that they start to leak with age and go up in a puff of smoke. Has anyone added a layer of sealant under the prong area to protect them? If so what do you recommend silicone or epoxy. They are not DOT approved, can be replaced with modern versions or cut and transformed into modern H4s but I already know that much. I also did do a very exhaustive search without luck. Any answers would be very much appreciated, thank you!
Are you talking a sealed beam like in the truck in your pic, or a sealed beam like a Guide headlight bucket? I know the Guide lights you can simply rewire with new wiring, and put a fresh sealed beam in and it works like new. If you are talking about a sealed beam and referring to simply this, the headlight itself - - Then just buy new ones.. why bother "restoring" one?
This is the first I have heard about sealed beams NOT being DOT approved. I do know some of the bulb conversions may not be DOT approved. The older non halogen bulbs may have been phased out by the manufactures but as far as I know, they are still DOT approved as they were OE from the late 30s to the late 80s. About all I can recommend is sealing the base of the prongs with clear lacquer or fingernail polish. They were expendable.
28A reason is vanity I guess. I have a set of brand new Wagners but she looks so much better when she is wearing her guides. That and because it really pisses off some other truck guys at my local car club (they started it... Mature I know!) Thanks F-One, Yes I did a bunch of digging and certain lights (not all) are not DOT approved in some states. It is really a shame that these things are throw aways.
I like the old headlights too, I think my son's 59 still has at least 3 T3 guide headlights in it. They are DOT approved, as far as I know sealed beams were required in new cars starting in 1940, and 4 headlight sealed beam systems were allowed in most states in 1957, and all states in 1958. I think they just get old and burn out, there isn't much you can do about it. Most sealed beams lasted 5-10 years, a few managed to survive longer than that. I would just leave them alone and enjoy them while you can. I recently had to toss a 7" T3 bulb, it was on an old Volvo, and lost low beam. High beam still worked, indicating that it still had not leaked, but just burned out the low beam filament.
Thanks Jim, That is bad news, I guess there will be a lens surgery at some point. I found a great write up here for it, might give it a try if they give up on me.
Fan attic sure here it is: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cutting-a-round-sealed-beam-headlight.580371/ Here is another version from R.A.C.: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com..._halogen_reflectors_conversion/?__federated=1 cool57 They used to but don't do 58/59s anymore. You can still get ones for after 1960 though. http://www.lectriclimited.com/lighting_fuse_sets.htm
The bad thing about doing a 'conversion' on old headlamps is the optics aren't designed for the higher-output halogen lamps. Yes, you'll have 'better' lighting if you intend to actually use them, but at the cost of probably blinding oncoming drivers unless you adjust them low.... at which point you've lost the advantage of the 'upgrade'....
If you're looking for 'original' looks, the conversions are the way to go. But the optics in the 'old' lens isn't designed for either the light output or the 'cutoff' designed into the halogen or HID lamp. The older incandescent lamps allowed quite a bit more 'scatter' but at the lower 'temperature' and lower wattage that these lamps had it wasn't overly objectionable to oncoming drivers. Not the case with a brighter lamp. The lens/reflectors are designed as a unit, matched to the type of lamp used. Virtually none of the 'conversions' on the market are DOT-approved, despite of any claims made to the contrary made by some sellers. While these can offer the driver more light, the danger they can represent to oncoming drivers as well as you is much higher. It always irritates me to see these conversions touted while failing to mention this simple fact.... As far as 'preserving' your existing lamps, best bet is just to run 'em as-is. Anything you may add will at best do nothing, at worst may cause a 'hot spot' and cause them to fail quicker. Generally, vacuum loss will be gradual and you'll start to see 'fogging' once it gets to the point of causing problems. Vibration or heat cycling (turning the lamp on and off) is the usual culprit for filament failure.
Thanks Steve, I get it now. I'll leave the existing alone. When I do a conversion I'll try to cook up a shade like the old ones have. Looks like the top half of the filament is covered with this plate.
Never heard of them leaking unless punctured by a rock but I suppose it is possible. There is nothing wrong with the old sealed beams as long as they get enough juice. You aren't supposed to look at the beam but look ahead of the beam. Corroded wiring, light switch, dimmer switch etc. can degrade performance. You can always add a relay and fresh wiring to make sure they are getting full voltage.
Thanks Rusty, The PO installed halogen headlights but no relay. After I added fogs the load roasted my fuse panel and a good chunk of the wiring (I blamed it on the crappy wiring job) I realized that load was too much but already too late. Good result was fresh new wiring, new connections and a very clean switch. Hopefully these will last a little while.
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