I first posted this back in 06', But it seems from time to time this becomes a problem for some guys mounting the transverse leaf spring. So lets re visit this. It just so happened I had to do this process today,.. and there was a camera in my jacket pocket,.. so all the planets aligned to re run this process once again,.... Now I know for most of you guys this is just a rehash,.. and you all know this,... but for some this might help. Back in the 70's I built a spring spreader from plans in Rod Action magazine, hooked it up to a partial unpacked 40 rear spring and started cranking away, well when the spring was spread almost far enough to get the shackles lined up, the stupid thing folded up like a cheap lawn chair, the spring went flying and just about took my head off. A old friend of mine had been using a variation of this method for a very long time, this isn't new to a lot of you, but I have found this to be the safest easiest way to mount and dismount a transverse spring especially if you are working alone,............. I just happened to have a camera handy when I put a front spring on a dropped front end, for a friends chassis. So for those of you who are interested in this simple process, here is the step by step process. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- First you take 2 large beefy "C" clamps and put them on either side of the Pack center bolt and reef them puppys down,.. then get a "All Thread" rod, 4 large flat washers, and a couple nuts for it, unbolt the center bolt ( or cut the head of it off ) remove the old bolt and replace it with the All Thread, 2 washers on top and two washers on the bottom and tighten up the nuts.
Next you remove the pack clips ( If there still on the spring), there in about 6" from the spring eye on either side, slowly remove the 2 big clamps, then you just start backing off the top nut on the All Thread slowly, keep a eye on the spring to make sure none of the leaves are trying to walk out (this has never happened to me "yet" ).
When all the tension is off,... just loosen the nut from the bottom and lift the spring pack off. At this point, just unbolt your shackles, and you can easily take the main leaf on and off at will with very light hand pressure. Now all you have to do is reverse the procedure,... After the spring is apart, you can just mount the main leaf (this is really easy to do), tighten up your shackles, take your All Thread rod with with the nut and 2 washers on the top and replace the leafs you want to use on it, than just set it on the main leaf, put the 2 washers and nut on the bottom and start to tighten it back up ( again making sure none of the leafs are trying to walk out on you ) it draws the spring pack back together and keeps the center hole lined up,......... When the spring pack draws back tight, put your 2 big beefy C clamps back on either side of the center hole like in the first picture, remove the All Thread, replace the center bolt and pack clips,...... remove the C clamps and,............ Ta Da ! it's ready to go back in the car. And your head is still firmly attached to your shoulders !
Yep,... you can do that, but you stand a chance that things can get away from you,... The all thread adds a element of safety,... and control, and lets the pressure off evenly. In my humble opinion and experience.
I just lay the spring pack on the floor, install a large C-clamp, remove the center bolt and back the clamp off. So far the spring leaves just de-arch and separate.
Like I said,.. I just really like to have the control, and extra safety, I'v seen guys just lay them flat on the floor and burn the center bolt head off with a torch, and all the leaves jump and take off,..... To each there own,... I actually used to do it the exact way you describe, Until my old Hot Rod pal showed me this method in the early 70's, Which according to him, is very similar to how they used to do it in the dealerships. But this comes in really handy when repacking the leafs, keeping the center holes lined up. And mostly for remounting the spring on it's shackles. Not saying it's the only way to do this,... just a safe and easy way, that I have done on a LOT of transverse springs, on a lot of cars over the years,.. and this method has never let me down.
Thanks for sharing this. I'm about to start fooling around with leaf springs. I hadn't done much because I still need to buy some C-clamps which I will next weekend (along with the all-thread). This seems like a much safer idea and there's no such thing as being too safe. So.. Once again, thanks for sharing this with us.
thanks for taking the time to post this. That trick has been in my magic bag for a long time. Works on any arch spring and does it safely. Flying springs can tear some crap up, and compressing them is easy.
Also, when doing it under the car in cramped quarters, when going back together sometimes I will just cut the all thread to length and leave it in there. Just pre plan it and have a square nut part of the plan.
Serious mechanics and dealerships used screw-type spreaders from companies like OTC and Snap-on...I am guessing that the ones in the plans were similar but based on all-thread and water pipe or such. The pro ones were conceptually about like that but with extremely stout parts and also with bearings to allow easier turning. An important element is something to prevent spring and spreader from separating by much isf somethinfg slips...parts equivalent to large spring clips are one concept, carefully applied chains another. Also if building, the parts that go into the groove can have some wrap arounf the ends as another security measure. The C clamps have the potential to sli, and either the original probably rusted center bolt or its all-thread replacement can potentially break ...I would at least put the clamps on some sort of short tether and work at arm's length. Anything a seriously compressed spring tosses is going to be capable of going through your head without slowing down. To R&R a spring...how I did it when young and poor: Put heavy toolboxes, fat friends, cement blocks, etc. into trunk until tail goes down a bit and spring lengthens. Cut both ends of a 2X4 off at a sharp angle, length to just allow insertion between the eyes. Release weight and raise car...spring is held at the stretched position. Easy to R&R, easy for it to kill you... Could that be made semi-safe??? I would start by putting on a chain at each end wrapping to spring...add a metal strap flange on each side of each end to keep it aligned with spring and unable to twist out...and stay the hell away from any airspace the spring or board might covet if plans prove inadequate. Still dangerous, but less so. If you can't find a good professional spreader, find big, strong components to build from. The design is VERY simple but needs to be STOUT. Spring holding a spreader or improvised equivalent is as powerful as a medieval siege engine, but not as controllable...
Well Bruce, I have a head cold and I'm taking some cold meds,... so it's most likely me,... I read your post 3 times, and am not sure exactly what your getting to. (like I said, most likely me) My old pal Frank had 3 different variations of spring spreaders that were used in old Ford dealerships ( I don't remember the manufacturing information).. They actually looked like old mid-evil torture devices,.... The coolest one had a double headed ratchet in the center with two opposing telescoping arms. He said out of all 3 this one was the best,... but you couldn't use it on the 1932-34 curved spring, Because he said,... "they like to get away from you". Frank is the guy that gave me this tip back in the 70's,... Like I said, the one I made from the article in Rod Action using 3/4" allthread, two angle plated, A big nut and gas pipe,... folded up under pressure, let go and flew past my "coconut",.... I never had a problem with this process,.. and I stand behind it being the safest way to do this job. IMHO * And please know there is no disrespect meant in this, as I truly appreciate everything you bring to this board*
I've done a few of them that way over the years including the spring on my T bucket in the early 70's. The all thread isn't strong enough to leave as a spring bolt though. I've seen enough rigs with broken spring bolts to not want to cut corners.
Gotta have the required 2 x 4's to help spring eyes slide along axle if needed, and large hose clamps will keep leaves from "pinwheeling" just keep them adjusted snug during disassembly and reassembly. This "all-thread" trick seems to work on most of the leaf springs I have had to wrestle with over the last half century or so (Damn I feel old!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Just used this method yesterday with great success. In the process of removing a few leaves to lower the front of my '39. If it still ain't low enough, I will either make some longer shackles, or use the reversing eyes on a main leaf thread in the tech archive. Love the HAMB!
That's a great method. I'm not a fan of Allthread... I'd probably use a long-ass bolt with a nut; that way I could just use a ratchet on one side and a wrench on the other and have good control. I've taken the springs apart on a couple Tri-5 Chevy cars, which isn't as many springs and not as arched, but it's the same principle. To keep the leaves from flying apart or spinning, I put a big C-clamp around them--not ON them, but around them, so the leaves are in the middle of the clamp, between the clamp's frame and threaded rod. It acts like a cage and will arrest or absorb a lot of energy if anything breaks while I'm taking it apart. -Brad
It's exactly how I've done it the handful of times I needed to release or compress a spring pack. Could be reason enough NOT to do it this way...hahahaa
Worked great for me.. Just saying. Thanks for sharing something with those of us inexperienced guys who would have never thought of this method. iPhone - TJJ App
The Jalopy Journal
