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Radiator Flush Cemicals Question??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by k9racer, May 1, 2004.

  1. k9racer
    Joined:
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    north alabama usa

    k9racer Member

    The EPA baned the old radiator flush products.
    . Does any one have any home made mixtures or tell me any cemicals to use and if neutralizers are needed? Thank You...
  2. safariknut
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    902 River Acres Drive Tecumseh MI 49286

    safariknut Member

    I was on a road trip two years ago when the radiator decided to plug itself.Stopped at my aunt's on the way home to pull it out and have the radiator flushed.They don't do it anymore there so I used a couple of gallons of Liquid Plum-R,taped the openings with duct tape,filled it up and rotated it every 15 minutes or so for a couple hours and then back-flushed it.Worked for nearly a year.This was a copper radiator;don't know what it would do to an aluminum one.
  3. FeO2
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    Mt.Airy Maryland

    FeO2 Member

    I use a solution of muratic acid.Get it at the hardware store.(it's used for cleaning bricks & masonary)Rinse Very well w/ water.
  4. FeO2
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    FeO2 Member

    PS not recomended for aluminum..........
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  5. k9racer
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    k9racer Member

    Has anyone tried anything else?? Thank you..
  6. 29SX276
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    Moooose Jaw,Sask.,Canada

    29SX276 Member

    K-9 Racer; I think a 50/50 mixture of Muriatic acid and water should clean up a rad pretty nice.The acid eats up scale and crud like magic;used the same stuff in the water jackets of my flatty;got them spotless.Just wear the proper protection for your eyes and hands.To be on the safe side I'd do a test run on a scrap piece of copper/brass first.I'd hate to hear of holes in your rad in your next post!
  7. stealthcruiser
    Joined:
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    Location:
    hampton,ga.

    stealthcruiser Member

    red devil lye(the old school drain cleaner),read the directions on the can,as best i remember,it gives some mixing instructions for purposes other than drain cleaning.
    that said,keep in mind it will also remove corrosion from core plugs and cause them to weep(don't ask),also bypass your heater core prior to use.
    this shit is also good for removing anodizing from aluminum side trim and headlight bezels.
    use a piece of vinyl rain gutter to soak your side trim in.
    CAUTION:
    this stuff will make metal miraculosly disappear!
    monitor it closely whilst using,on cooling systems or otherwise.
    later.
  8. Petejoe
    Joined:
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    Zoar, (Middle of Hot Rod Universe) Ohio

    Petejoe Member

    CLR. Calcium,lime,rust
    the stuff used for household applications.
    Run it for a while and flush the shit out of it.
  9. JamesG
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2003
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    Location:
    NLR, Arkansas

    JamesG Member

    Black pepper, no shit.
  10. Petejoe
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    Petejoe Member

    Black pepper was used as on the road way to plug radiator leaks. The pepper swells up and flows to the opening when getting wet. Not for chemical cleaning.
  11. The old heavy duty radiator flush kits were oxalic acid.

    Any acid will clean the oxide build-up. Muriatic is swimming pool acid, which is actually diluted hydrochloric acid. A 33-50% mixture will work good and should not cause any real metal removal. Flush well, even neutralize with baking soda is a good idea.

    C-L-R is (I think) phosphoric acid, a little easier on you and the metal than hydrochloric. Maybe use muriatic first for bulk cleaning if real clogged up and then C-L-R for final. Phosphoric is nice as it leaves a protective phosphate coating on iron.

    BTW, the new long-life coolants are actually acidic. They have extra H+ ions (that is what makes anything to be acidic) and there job is to combine with any oxygen molecules and form water, rather than iron oxide or aluminum oxide.

    Traditional coolants have corrosion inhibitors in them and those wear out over time, that is why you are recommended to change the coolant at two years, not because it loses it's anti-freezing or anti-boiling properties, but because it loses it's anti-corrosion abilities.

    Long winded answer to your question with extra info.
  12. Unkept
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    seattle, wa

    Unkept Member

    You can still get oxalic acid: stuff works great for rust, just do a search. Just go down to your local hardward store and buy some wood bleach (basically it's just powdered oxalic acid), run through your system and then neutralize with Baking Soda.
  13. 345 DeSoto
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    Summer Skaneateles,NY/Winter Port St.Lucie, FL

    345 DeSoto Member

    Oxalic acid (GM Heavy Duty Radiator Flush...2 part). Available at any GM dealer Svc Department. Works beautifully...
  14. Paul2748
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    Midland Park, NJ, USA

    Paul2748 Member

    White vinegar - fill the cooling systems, put on a bout twenty or thirty miles and then drain. Then flush two or three times.
  15. guitar man
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    Tulsa OK

    guitar man Member


    I remember my grandad using vinegar on his '63 galaxie. He poured a couple gallons in, cranked it up and let it run for about a half hour then drained and flushed it out real good with water. Seemed to work pretty good because the temp went back down to normal .
  16. Muttley
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    Muttley Member

    I tried to get some from the local Chevy dealer a couple of years ago but they told me it was discontinued. I ended up getting some wood bleach (same stuff) from a local mom & pop hardware store.............the stuff works great.
  17. vanteleauto
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    Taylor, MI

    vanteleauto Member

    From 2006 to 2009 GM made a one part flush, part # 88861344

    Have you used it and did it work like the old two part, or would you recommend reverting to using the wood bleach? If you recommend the wood bleach, would you use the whole container for the job?

  18. HOTFR8
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    The Hot Rod Centre of Australia - Castlemaine

    HOTFR8 Member

  19. rodknocker
    Joined:
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    Rochester, Ny

    rodknocker Member

    What about using a BG or Wynns type flush? I know usually you have to get them at the dealer but I know we sell the Wynn kits over the counter too. I don't know how good they'll work on an older radiator, shit I don't think they work any better than just using a hose and flushing back and foward.
  20. vanteleauto
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    Taylor, MI

    vanteleauto Member

    Ended up using the wood bleach!! Worked amazingly, but did not use all 12oz's of it in the 4 gallon system. Used 9oz's to four gallons, ph was two I believe. It took out all the old antifreeze but I don't think it cut down the engine oil in the system.
  21. chopper cliff
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    Location:
    lodi ca

    chopper cliff Member

    Cascade dish washer powder, mix with hot water and pour in drive for about 20 minutes til circulated , will clean rust, oil and minor other crap, been using on Diesel tractors and my cars for 30 or so yrs, the hotter you get it the better it works, it especially is great for OIL in water, LOOK WHAT IT DOES FOR DISHES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  22. vintageauto
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    Manchester, Maryland

    vintageauto
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ordinary Baking Soda works well.
  23. vanteleauto
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
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    Location:
    Taylor, MI

    vanteleauto Member

    That stuff does work amazing however it sort of works too good. Ever notice your stainless utensils sometimes rust After the dishwasher cycle is done. That oxidation is happening during the wash, so if you were attempting to clean out rust from the system, unfortunately you are exasperating the problem while you use the cascade dish soap. We did once before and the system we used it on in just one year 6000miles filled with prestone green 50/50 ended showing up cloudy rusty / green so I don't know...I know I flushed it out till the system ran clear after using it.

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