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quarter elliptic spring front end

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fattrodder, Jan 29, 2008.

  1. fattrodder
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    fattrodder Member

    would like to see some set ups on anyones car.thinking about doing mine on my 29 truck modified. any photos will help
  2. 067chevy
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    067chevy Member

    here's a couple I did[​IMG]
  3. 067chevy
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    067chevy Member

    41 chevy pickup[​IMG]
  4. jj mack
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    jj mack Member

    Just asking....how are you going to control the lateral movement while cornering? Or do you think the springs will do it.
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  5. bobw
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    bobw Member

    To answer jj mack: I have a '27 Lakes roadster with pretty short springs and haven't detected any lateral movement. My son's '27 has much longer springs, like the one's on 067chevy's first pic. He drove it for a few years with no problems, but I was curious about movement. The springs on his are about an inch away from the frame so I put thick nylon rubbing blocks on the frame at the outer end with about a 1/16 inch gap. It appears that the springs seldom touch the rubbing blocks.
    [​IMG]
  6. 067chevy
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    067chevy Member

    had no problems. That was the first one I built and went to a guy in cal. He loved it. since then I have done a couple more. The last one I did I got alot of behind the wheel time and it road and drove great. I had no problem with laderal movement. I guess if you wanted to you could add panhard bar
  7. 067chevy
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    067chevy Member

    here is another. the second one I did using an F-1 front spring cut[​IMG]
  8. Flatty
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    Flatty Member

    What springs are you guys using for your 1/4 lipstick? I have built these on rockcrawlers before, but never on a hot rod, and think it is a GREAT idea. I know Posies sells the springs, but for that price, I can go wtih other options.
    What year F1's are those?

    Thanks
    DIma
  9. 067chevy
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    067chevy Member

    I've heard of guys using trailer springs but I use whatever i have from f-1 to model a springs. the one in the picture ar 51 f-1 springs and had to make a brass bushing to use the speedway shackels
  10. 067chevy
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    067chevy Member

    these[​IMG] on this one were model a springs
  11. Flatty
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    Flatty Member

    What front axle is this? That is exactly what I am hoping mine to look like, just a bit taller maybe.

    dIma

  12. 067chevy
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    067chevy Member

    That alxe is a 37 to 41 and I like using it because it is 49" wide narrower than the rest of the ford beam axles
  13. jj mack
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    jj mack Member

    I had a set built at a local spring shop, but decided not to using em. They built em based on the ~weight of the car. They were cheap. Il make someone a hell of a deal on em is interested.
  14. nexxussian
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    nexxussian
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    067 Chevy, was that a front or rear Model A spring? Or does it matter, are you maybe adjusting the rate with how long the spring is (after you cut it)?
  15. Flatty
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    Flatty Member

    I am guessing that is the front (the rear has the MASSIVE arch in it)

    Dima
  16. nexxussian
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    nexxussian
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    I figured they were short enouh that it might not be visibly appearent with them installed.
  17. 067chevy
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    067chevy Member

    used the front model a sprin and the front 51 f-1 spring
  18. lakesmod
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    lakesmod Member

    Made these from trailer springs,$8 each.

    Attached Files:

  19. nobux
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    nobux Member

    Here is a picture of how I did it with my old frame. I welded a pocket to the bottom of each frame rail. The springs are sandwiched into that pocket and located by the center bolt. There was NO side to side movement. I cut a F-100 leaf spring in half and drilled new center bolt holes. I did it this way so that the frame looked cleaner than mounting them on the sides. With the shackle, the frame rails sat lower than the axle.

    Attached Files:

  20. jj mack
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    jj mack Member

    Dont you need a shackle on that?
  21. Turbo26T
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    Turbo26T Member

    Here's mine

    Attached Files:

  22. Unkl Ian
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    Unkl Ian Member

    Not if it is a locating link.
    The springs create a 4-bars arrangement.

    And you don't need a Panhard Bar.



  23. 067chevy
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    067chevy Member

    I located mine on the outide of the frame rail so I didn't have to Z the frame and it also puts the spring outwards on the axle if that make any difference. I thout it would but I'm no engineer.
  24. jj mack
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    jj mack Member

    Not really...the spring lengthens (from the mounting point to the eye) when it is flexed. With the upper "bar" maintaining a fixed length, the lower (spring) expanding and contracting...the angle of the axle will change..........

    If shackle will allow this movement with out effecting the angle.
  25. modifieddriver
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    modifieddriver Member


    Here's how quarter elliptical springs were mounted on Northeast Dirt and Asphalt Modifieds in the mid 60's to early 70's. This is a pic of a car I built in the early 70's.

    Transverse mounting using the original shackle pickup points on the stock radius rods.

    Springs have eyes on both ends and pivot in the frame mount. Use a panhard bar or weld one shackle to control lateral movement.

    The weight jacking bolts were to "wedge" and tune the chassis set-up. You could move these closer together to soften the spring rate.

    It's compact and isn't hangin' out there in the breeze as with longitudinal mounted springs

    Attached Files:

  26. nexxussian
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    nexxussian
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    DAMN! That's ALOT of setback.

    So the white 'posts' sticking up on the front crossmember are the adjusters / weight jacks? I'm looking on a smaller screen than I'm used to.
  27. bobw
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    bobw Member

    Modifieddriver, a clever setup. One question: Is the axle one piece or jointed in the middle?
  28. modifieddriver
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    modifieddriver Member


    The axle is a stock '42-'48 passcar. We used them 'cause they were the widest (KP to KP) old FORD axle and had the most drop of any stock axle. Not split in the middle. The old Allard sports cars had that and is was a disaster for camber change. FatMan and some others offer some PoS that's like that.

    The white posts sticking up are threaded rod. Can't remember the diameter, but whatever it is, it was an overkill. Welded a nut to the 2" x 2" square tubing crossmember (I put it inside the tubing) and another nut to the end of the rod at the top. Crank the bolt up and down to adjust ride height initially, then once that's done (front and rear) then you can adjust the wedge.

    There's a jam nut to lock it all in place to the crossmember. Worked like a champ.

    I'm more weight concious now then back then. I'd use smaller diameter rod and shorten them up to about 1/3 the length you see there. I think we eventually did wack them off shorter.

    AND Yeah, the engine set-back was 18" from the front axle center line to the face of the engine block. The car after that had 24" and it still wasn't enough (for dirt). The frame in the pic is a '53 Chevy passcar.

    I included a pic of the rear suspension. A similar adjustment with a roller slider on Chrysler leaf springs. Back of the frame was kicked up to get more rear suspension travel.

    Here's a pic of the completed car. I eventually ran 427's and 454's in it.

    Attached Files:

  29. lakesmod
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    Taylor Bay KP S ,Wash

    lakesmod Member

  30. jj mack
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    jj mack Member

    Look again, The reason it works on that car is....they use a spring on top and bottom....so the axle will stay at he the set angle as both should flex together. the pic above will not keep the axle on the same angle.

    To prove it put the car on blocks...the axle and wheels should drop to their lowest point. Put an angle finder on the axle. Then use a floor jack and jack up the axle till the car is just about to come off the block...this should be the highest point.

    Ill bet you a beer the angle changes as the spring straightens out.........

    JJ

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