I don't want to burst your bubble but this IS the way they were first made!!!!!! Both Hildabrand and Frankland started out doing JUST what you are doing in the 40's! I saw Mr. Frankland find one at a Swap meet in Fla. He was telling several that this was definitely one of his old ones because there were machining ares where he had found a different way to do this or that...! Jamie Frankland is his son (my age) and lives near Ruskin / Riverview Fla. I am sure he could tell you the better part of that story!! He has a straight 6 front engined dragster rail job that he runs. Maybe even post some photos of his dad's first units. They WERE STEEL! I would even be interested in one of your copies! That would be a really neat addition to an original looking hot rod. He went to aluminum as they were easy to pour and cheaper to make!!! What ever happened to those times and men who could work!
I don't want to burst your bubble but this IS the way they were first made!!!!!! Both Hildabrand and Frankland started out doing JUST what you are doing in the 40's! I saw Mr. Frankland find one at a Swap meet in Fla. He was telling several that this was definitely one of his old ones because there were machining ares where he had found a different way to do this or that...! Jamie Frankland is his son (my age) and lives near Ruskin / Riverview Fla. I am sure he could tell you the better part of that story!! He has a straight 6 front engined dragster rail job that he runs. Maybe even post some photos of his dad's first units. They WERE STEEL! I would even be interested in one of your copies! That would be a really neat addition to an original looking hot rod. He went to aluminum as they were easy to pour and cheaper to make!!! What ever happened to those times and men who could work!
That bolt is similar to what is on a modern Winters QC. But it is steel instead of brass. and you touch the ring gear and back off. Ago
That is slick. First you make me want to run the banjo rear end I have in the shed using the pieces from the 9 inch in the other shed and now you show us how to make a quick change out of it to boot.
I like what i see, that is well thought out. Can you describe what went wrong on a previous try? you mentioned distortion.
On the previous attempt I had machined the bearing bores into the housing , then welded everything together. I ended up with so much distortion that I had to build up and remachine the bearing bores. Also I didn't have any provision for a bearing retainer. If you search "welded quickchange" , OldGuy made one where he welded everything together then machined it.
Mighten this be the same feller, who showed us all how to make a custom built steering wheel? Nice work, esp. that little support post addition.
Just something to consider, bearings in the rear cover are worth while, especially if running helicul gears.
Definitly! That is just the outside of the rear cover. I'm making the cover and housing in one with bearings .
Yeah right I wish I was this fast....It's just a pattern for the rear cover painted silver...should look ok
You might want to make some provision for an o ring or some other type of seal between the coverplate and the rearend housing, especially if you are only going to use the four fasteners indicated in the pattern, otherwise leakage could be a major problem. Just saying - good looking work.
I put an O-ring on mine and have had no leakage problems. I think I would use six bolts like a Halibrand cover. You have to figure that the bolts are supporting the bearings in the rear cover. Also might consider putting some dowel pins in it. Make sure you use some quality bearings in the cover. I had some cheap ones and one of them started sounding rough at a little over a thousand miles.
Very, very clever. I'd have flunked your cless for sure if i hadn't gone back and reread and studied your pics. I got a banjo sitting on the bench contemplating the crossshaft hole and decided to reread the thread to confirm a dimemsion. That was when i spotted the oil drain hole on top of the housing! You have no idea how close i came to screwing the pooch right from get-go! You mention something about cutting the splines, you got that worked out yet? I messed with that part once and could only come up with 3 seperate cuts to make each spline. Thanks, oj
OJ, you will end up with the drain on the top. I drilled one of the bells and put a drain bung and plug there. The biggest thing is having the ring gear on the drivers side of the rear end.Like i said before if you put it the other way the car will go backwards. Or you could use it for a front wheel drive. Cutting the splines I have played with this one a bit and I think I got it sorted. In a dividing head I found center and went over half of the width of each spline. I cut each spline with a indexable carbide 90 degree cutter. Cutting one side first then finding center again and going the other direction half the width to cut the other side of the spline. If you look at the splines from the end the sides of the splines are parallel. The ned of the cut ends up a bit into the bearing surface but that's how the factory splines look. Look at a stock pinion or a Halibrand shaft and you'll see what I mean.
I just use a bead of silicone on the rear cover of my speed demon unit, no leaks at all. This looks really cool Jethro, lots of great ideas here!
That was about how i tried it, a seperate cut on each side and a 3rd cut thru the middle. That was the only way i could get the edges of the splines true the the center, if you ran a milling bit down thru there you'd wind up with a keystone shaped spline. I figured it out from a lower end shaft for an outboard motor. The cuts were very clean.
A bit more to add today. I machined the shaft and test fit everything again....it's going in the right direction I think.
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